New to me 240D

supermansv · Jul 16, 2021

Hi folks - New to the forum (Hello!) and just recently picked up a 1980 YM240D.

So -- I'd been looking at 4wd compact tractors for a month or two and I was really trying to find a good conditioned Ford 1520. I found one locally, however it was not especially well cared for and the seller was just asking to much. I then came across a excellent condition Massey Ferguson 1250, however the seller backed out of the deal. Which then led me to this 240D and I must say, I really liked the different green/lime color versus the red/blue/white of the others. From what I've gathered so far, some seem to like it and some hate it

. In any case, the gentleman was asking a fairly high price, but after reviewing a number of issues with him, he ended up negotiating down to a price that I felt was reasonable. So, here she is!

With alot of tractors this age, it's got cobbled together fixes all over the place. So, I've been cataloging them as I spend more time looking over the tractor and will be fixing them/replacing parts over the coming weeks. Just ordered a group 4 R.O.P.S from Fredericks, I'm hoping that bolts on without issue. A few other things- from the picture you can see I need to straighten the top of the bucket. Apparently the previous owner used it for pushing down trees on his property. Addtionally, there are several hydraulic hoses to replace, need to replace the front bucket hinge pin where a bolt was used, other missing bolts, there are wiring issues, grease fittings stripped out, warning lights not working, etc. But, overall the engine and transmission are in good shape so hopefully all the rest will just be little fixes here and there.

I look forward to learning from others on the forum and getting this tractor back into shape! Oh and if anyone has a lead on the manual for the FEL, that would be awesome. I've been searching around, but have been unable to find anything on it so far.

Thanks,
Zach

oosik · Jul 16, 2021

Welcome to TBN and the forum. Nice tractor - great project.

California · Jul 16, 2021

Welcome! That sure looks nicer than my YM240 that I bought in 2003.

It took me a month to remedy neglect like what you are describing - replaced a bashed headlight, found the proper fuel filter assembly to replace the lawn mower filter I found on there, found the replacement for the three-warning-light panel that was dangling by me knee.

Replaced the press-clutch-to-start safety switch. It squeaked as it rolled along due to loose lug nuts and loose loader to frame bolts. Prior owner said for a decade or so it had been used only a couple of hours per year when the loader was needed so nothing had been maintained. There were lots of little things neglected, for example the hydraulic filter was filthy and the 'ignition' switch was intermittent. But after a month of fixing minor stuff it ran like new.

17 years later it still looks like heck but it was, and is, fundamentally sound. Replacing the dribbly loader control (wasn't Yanmar) was the only repair for years. And a replacement for the junk 'rebuilt' starter I found on it. Then last year the first major repair - when I bought it I found the 'hinge pin' for a 3-point arm was sloppy loose and had hogged out its threads. I reset it with red (permanent) thread locker and forgot about it. Finally using the backhoe and stressing that pin pushing it forward, busted a chunk out of the axle housing. $350 for a replacement and a month's time, and I was back to work. I really think my total maintenance expense is less than what it would have cost on a brand new tractor over the same 17 years.

My advice? Ignore shabby looking loader hoses. They have two wire mesh plies and can run for years after the outer rubber rots off. I have some that looked bad in 2003 and they still look bad, but don't leak. The several hoses I've replaced all got snagged and ripped off as I was rasseling downed orchard trees. Pure user abuse, not worn out.

You don't need a manual for the loader. Those and some other 'OEM' bolt-on components were made in the US for dealer install. Seals, hoses, pins are all generic SAE stuff that any hydraulic shop can provide. I had one loader curl cylinder rebuilt, cost $165. When the other one dribbled I got the seals from the same place, $10, and did it myself. Simple. The only hard part was I needed a HF 3 ft pipe wrench plus pipe extender to unscrew the end cap. My loader is from Great Bend (now Bushhog) and I think ARPS provided the Yanmar OEM loader.

ROPS - the proper one is spec'd for the YM240's twin, YM2000. I bought one of the first ones from Hoye and was the first to try in on a YM240. Perfect fit, with some minor work, I had to grind a slight groove in a riser block between the fender and the axle before it would slide in next to the riser block. No big deal.

You'll love it! These are great tractors.

bmaverick · Jul 16, 2021

supermansv said:
Hi folks - New to the forum (Hello!) and just recently picked up a 1980 YM240D.

So -- I'd been looking at 4wd compact tractors for a month or two and I was really trying to find a good conditioned Ford 1520. I found one locally, however it was not especially well cared for and the seller was just asking to much. I then came across a excellent condition Massey Ferguson 1250, however the seller backed out of the deal. Which then led me to this 240D and I must say, I really liked the different green/lime color versus the red/blue/white of the others. From what I've gathered so far, some seem to like it and some hate it . In any case, the gentleman was asking a fairly high price, but after reviewing a number of issues with him, he ended up negotiating down to a price that I felt was reasonable. So, here she is!

With alot of tractors this age, it's got cobbled together fixes all over the place. So, I've been cataloging them as I spend more time looking over the tractor and will be fixing them/replacing parts over the coming weeks. Just ordered a group 4 R.O.P.S from Fredericks, I'm hoping that bolts on without issue. A few other things- from the picture you can see I need to straighten the top of the bucket. Apparently the previous owner used it for pushing down trees on his property. Addtionally, there are several hydraulic hoses to replace, need to replace the front bucket hinge pin where a bolt was used, other missing bolts, there are wiring issues, grease fittings stripped out, warning lights not working, etc. But, overall the engine and transmission are in good shape so hopefully all the rest will just be little fixes here and there.

I look forward to learning from others on the forum and getting this tractor back into shape! Oh and if anyone has a lead on the manual for the FEL, that would be awesome. I've been searching around, but have been unable to find anything on it so far.

Thanks,
Zach

Nice find.

A little TLC and it's a work-a-holic.

We all love Tree Frogs here.

CoyPatton · Jul 16, 2021

Welcome to the forum. Ditto on the hydraulic hoses lasting for a long time while looking like crap. Surplus center is a great resource for hoses if you know the length and needed fittings.
Also ditto on check the tightness of bolts, lug nuts and such, trey seem to be a frequently overlooked maintenance item.
Specs for hydraulic fluid from the 80’s at least on the imports was jd303. It has been upgraded to jd20c. In many areas 303 has been outlawed (my state is one such location).
Yanmars are great compact tractors, I expect you will have years of great service from it.

supermansv · Jul 16, 2021

Thank you all for the warm welcome and great tips/suggestions! @California - I ordered the R.O.P.S from Fredericks Equipment, hopefully that is the correct one. It stated the application was for 240 and 2000.

As for bolts being loose, great tip and I definitely had noticed quite a few that were loose, missing, or snapped off. All said, it will certainly make for a good project. One of the only worrisome issues is a FEL Frame bolt that snapped off. It's located on the left side of the tractor, there are 3 total per side. I think I'll need to remove the FEL, it's frame, etc. before attempting to extract the remainants of the bolt. Anyone gone through this before and have suggestions?

Thanks again!

California · Jul 17, 2021

supermansv said:
One of the only worrisome issues is a FEL Frame bolt that snapped off. I think I'll need to remove the FEL, it's frame, etc. before attempting to extract the remnants of the bolt.

If you can get a drill in there, I wouldn't remove anything. Just drill then hammer in an ez-out. Ive had good luck using special left-hand drills for this. More than half the time the drill will draw the broken stub out without drama. Some penetrating oil might help with this approach.

I've read of welding to the broken bolt to get ahold of it, haven't tried that. But I wouldn't start by disassembling everything. You might get lucky long before all that work.

dirttoys · Jul 17, 2021

California said:
If you can get a drill in there, I wouldn't remove anything. Just drill then hammer in an ez-out. Ive had good luck using special left-hand drills for this. More than half the time the drill will draw the broken stub out without drama. Some penetrating oil might help with this approach.

I've read of welding to the broken bolt to get ahold of it, haven't tried that. But I wouldn't start by disassembling everything. You might get lucky long before all that work.

Left handed drill bits work shocking well, had to go to northern tool or HF to find them. Welding to it if you can get to it works well. Saw a guy weld pipe on bolts sheared deep, but they were big bolts and he had thick wall pipe that he could still get a rod through.

If it goes through the frame, not everyone thinks about it, but, don't be afraid to go after it from the other side.

Best,

ed

supermansv · Jul 17, 2021

I was thinking about welding something to it, but it's approximately a 1/2 to 3/4 inch recessed into the frame + mounts. I wasn't sure I could get another bolt/nut into the hole and still be able to weld to it. Hopefully the pictures below will help show it.

Really appreciate the responses and suggestion on the left hand drill bit, I'll check out my local HF to see if I can find an appropriately sized bit. Also hindsight, I wish I would have noticed all the newish bolts around the tractor. The light was a bit funny out when I checked out the tractor, I clearly missed them. Hopefully that doesn't lead to more surprises down the road.

Thanks!

California · Jul 17, 2021

I would start by loosening the other bolts and re-aligning those mounts so the broken bolt is perfectly centered in the holes, then re-tighten. Then try the left hand drill. HF sells a $10 set, and screw extractors. But pro tools from an industrial supply house might be a better choice if these won't get it out easily.