failed locking pin on locking chain grab hook - am i doing it wrong?

[orangetree]

pretty new to chaining anything. For my grade70 chains i dedicated to my tractor's trailer, i bought 'locking' style clevis grab hooks

• because it makes setup a tiny bit easier (no dropped hooks before i get it snug), plus
• theoretically in a "bad event" where there was a some momentary slack (broken chain on a different corner, collision, etc) the locking pin might keep the hook engaged until the (shifting - again, SHTF situation) load finds a new position. Theoretical, border case; but I drive an undivided winding two lane highway that has zero barriers, a 15' embankment to a river, and a bunch of idiot drivers - so I'll take anything i can get

Anyway, two of my four hooks, after just one use, clearly have had some load put on the pin (and the pin can obviously take *zero* load - one locking pin cannot be operated at all, even with pliers, and the other one is very tight now but still hand-operable.

Here's a picture of how I have them bound: This one is undamaged, has ~1/16" gap to the pin in this setup. Of course i didn't know the pins were damaged before i loosened the load the first time, so I don't have any pictures of the 'bad' engagement - but I was pretty careful and it was set up exactly the same way.

Here's the hook that is still 'barely operable' (I've left the pin open where it stays by friction now)

Can you think of anything i could be doing wrong here? About the *only* variable i can think of is 'loop length' before i grab the hook to its chain; mine are short, maybe 6" here. Thanks!!

 

[orangetree]

FWIW here is a better pic of the (import) hook i have:

I see a few domestic mfg's that have a better (more space between the grabbed link and the locking pin) design, albeit at (much more $$) grade 100:

or a totally different design that looks a lot more robust (and if the 'pin' DOES get inappropriately loaded, it can still be opened, i appears

 

[bcp]

And another style.

https://www.uscargocontrol.com/products/3-8-clevis-grab-hook-with-latch-grade-70?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjfDQzqrA8wIVIB-tBh0mXw4REAQYAyABEgJUiPD_BwE

I would like to see reviews of all the styles, but I havent bought any yet.

Bruce

 

[Tinhack]

That pin is not meant to take a load. It's just like those spring loaded flip levers. It's only there to help keep the hook in place until you get a binder on the chain. When you hook a chain, you need to be at as much of right angle to the chain as possible. Use a binder to take up a chain that's too long.

None of my hooks have those levers or pins.

 

[jmc]

Any chance you are using, say, a 5/16 chain in a 1/4 hook? (or 3/8 in a 5/16 hook) IIRC, there's some slot slop that might allow it. But that retaining pin location might be designed for a matched size.

 

[s219]

Based on years of using chains, I can tell you those pins would not survive long for me. If it isn't load or wear and tear, just basic contamination will catch up with them. Too fussy to be practical.

 

[ruffdog]

I'm not liking how the hook and chain are nesting together....it doesn't look right.

 

[Henro]

I may be the only crazy one here, but when I need to be sure my grab hooks stay in place, I just use some electrical tape.

When in tension, they will not come off. When not in tension, they will, very likely, not come off if held in place by something like electrical tape.

Personally, that is enough for me. Has worked every time for many years...but of course, just for me...

 

[orangetree]

Any chance you are using, say, a 5/16 chain in a 1/4 hook? (or 3/8 in a 5/16 hook) IIRC, there's some slot slop that might allow it. But that retaining pin location might be designed for a matched size.

5/16 chain in a 5/16 hook

The hook is advertised as "5/16" not "5/16 to 3/8" (I don't pretend to know the exact difference here but it makes sense its not 'loose' width-wise on the 5/16)

Does anyone else think it looks mismatched, or have a similar locking hook they could share a pic of when tightened?

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Why be worried about those pins if you are trusting that shackle to keep your tractor on the trailer?

 

[orangetree]

Why be worried about those pins if you are trusting that shackle to keep your tractor on the trailer?

see the two bullets in the OP

 

[whitetiger]

Regardless of what that "made in china" hook is labeled, the hook is too large for the chain.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

see the two bullets in the OP

Care to elaborate?

Vehicles without dedicated tiedown points should be strapped by the axles or designated wheel restraints. Then again perhaps I drag things farther down the road.

Never had a problem with hooks falling off myself, however I have had problems with the same speed-binders the op is using.

 

[jaxs]

The hook is a sloppy fit and those pins wouldn't make me feel any more secure. OP's experience in having pins to become damaged with first use is evidence of poor desighn and subject to failure.

 

[WranglerX]

Never used grab hooks with any sort of chain retaining pins or spring levers... They always seem to be damaged beyond repair after first use......... IF really desperate I use "mousing'....

 

[orangetree]

Care to elaborate?

Vehicles without dedicated tiedown points should be strapped by the axles or designated wheel restraints. Then again perhaps I drag things farther down the road.

Never had a problem with hooks falling off myself, however I have had problems with the same speed-binders the op is using.

Let me emphasize that although i have a technical background, i know nearly nothing about the "right" way to transport.

The first points in my OP are that standard grab hooks obviously work fine, but given the option for "standard grab hook" -plus- "retainer clip" i'll choose the lock/retainer - it makes it slightly easier to chain up as everything stays in position no matter the orientation, and it could, maybe/theoretically, help in a severe incident (without having any safety draw back AFAICT).

I agree that by the axles would be ideal, but as I found earlier in nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? (I'm the OP) that was not possible. It's really inexplicable to me that this major-brand tractor does not have dediciated transport points, at least as an option.

What problems did you have with these binders (and I'm using two styles - a "standard" (red), and the yellow folding peerless brand)?

 

[mini14]

Those hooks are nice for initial setup of the chains being bound but once you start tightening the binders you should release the pins. If you are worried about the hooks falling off during transit then you haven't attached them properly.

 

[Hall00]

Using the shackle on the drawbar is fine.

If you can, go 1 or 2 stake pockets further back with the anchor point on the trailer. The closer to 45 degrees the better.

 

[ArlyA]

or a totally different design that looks a lot more robust (and if the 'pin' DOES get inappropriately loaded, it can still be opened, i appears
View attachment 716461View attachment 716464

I've used this style and liked them but nothing is bullet proof. As the other fellow said, have some electrcal tape on hand in case its needed as a temp lock.

 

[WranglerX]

Using the shackle on the drawbar is fine.

If you can, go 1 or 2 stake pockets further back with the anchor point on the trailer. The closer to 45 degrees the better.

Yes and no.... My car carrier trailer doubles as haul anything I can load on it, but I found stake pockets miserable to work with.. Added large diameter steel loops (5/8 material) to each corner of trailer ... Hard to understand why equipment trailers use stake pockets and not dedicated "loop" tie down points, guess its that a cut piece of steel channel for stake pockets is cheaper than fabing loops...

And a minor technically California requires a vehicle to be tied down at four points.... Don't thing think using draw bar and a shackle would be 2 of the four points...I would interpret 2 of the four induvial points to be something like axles on rear of vehicle or dedicated tie points...