Brake line flaring tool?

[/pine]

Using a cut off wheel on a angle grinder etc. CAN leave metal shards inside the tube...these can possibly cause damage to seals and other components etc...

 

[5030]

I buy mine at the local NAPA in 30 foot rolls. Domestic made (sort of) made in Canada which I'm good with.

I tend not to buy stuff like that from Amazon because chances are it's imported and not from Canada either. Now I will say the fuel polishing units I got from Amazon (Conplus) are fine but I did replace the filters with genuine Racor Aquablock filters.

 

[5030]

Using a cut off wheel on a angle grinder etc. CAN leave metal shards inside the tube...these can possibly cause damage to seals and other components etc...

Maybe but never been an issue here.

 

[Bob Rooks]

It's a brand name WTF...

They claim their main component is nickel with stainless steel and copper being subordinate constituents. No wonder problems. Sad.

 

[5030]

Brake line replacement isn't something I like to do in the first place but owning American iron and living in an area with snow and road salt makes it necessary All my refits are on the back end where the OEM steel lines are subject to spray and eventual corrosion.

Like I stated elsewhere, European car and truck makers got smart many years ago and got away from steel brake lines and some even went to braided stainless steel brake hoses. Braided stainless brake hoses impart a much more solid feel to the pedal as they won't expand at all under brake fluid pressure. and they don't degrade inside like reinforced rubber lines do and Fords especially are prone to that issue.

 

[5030]

Sad.

You, most certainly... I'm done commenting, you remind me of a pig in mud.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Brake line flares are totally different than hydraulic tube flare. I have hydraulic tube flare made by Parker Hannifan that has worked very well for me. No clue on a source for a good brake flaring tool though.

Brake lines are double flares. National Inverted Flare

 

[LouNY]

That has never happened to me in 65 years, but then I use quality tubing.

I've flared SS, steel, copper and other assorted tubings over the years, most of mine was either brake lines which were not as demanding as SS instrumentation tubing lines.
I've have had and have seen numerous flares that have split most of those were cut with a tubing cutter.
At one time Swagelock even had cutting blocks for cutting tubing with fine tooth hacksaws.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I've flared SS, steel, copper and other assorted tubings over the years, most of mine was either brake lines which were not as demanding as SS instrumentation tubing lines.
I've have had and have seen numerous flares that have split most of those were cut with a tubing cutter.
At one time Swagelock even had cutting blocks for cutting tubing with fine tooth hacksaws.

Yep. I don't know how many 316 stainless instrumentation and hydraulic lines I've cut and swaged over the years but I've always used a tubing cutter with wide rollers and never had a split. In fact, think my old Swagelok cutter is the best, where the cutting wheel is stationary and the rollers rotate. I also have a set of Imperial hand tubing benders from 3/16" to 3/4". I've used those cutting blocks before but they're kind of inconvenient and better suited for production cutting, imo.

 

[blee03]

You would not get those results with the Eastwood on-vehicle tool.

Is this the Eastwood on-vehicle tool your mentioning?

 

[Bob Rooks]

Is this the Eastwood on-vehicle tool your mentioning?

It looks like it.

Eastwood On Car Brake Line Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing

Eastwood On Car Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing

www.eastwood.com

 

[Vigo327]

Those nicop flares really do look terrible. I'm guessing the tool doesn't play well with that metal. But when just need to get something done quickly, i'd rather find a commonly available tool to work on a commonly available metal than **** around with trying to figure out something new (to me). I haven't done any nicop or CuNi or anything other than steel, but i was considering it for a repair ive been putting off for a long time and need to get around to. I guess this thread is just telling me to research the most appropriate tool for those types of line if i decide to use those metals.

 

[blee03]

It looks like it.

Eastwood On Car Brake Line Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing

Eastwood On Car Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing

www.eastwood.com

Yeah, that's the exact tool I bought and used for this job, except it's re-branded as the Titan 51535.

So yes, I did get those results using the eastwood on-vehicle tool... I'm thinking it was the Ni-Cop and not so much the actual tool though since it worked perfectly on steel line every time I used it

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/titan/tools---equipment/mechanics-tools/tubing-benders--cutters---flaring/9912f4429c0d/titan-double-flaring-tool/ttn0/51535

 

[Bob Rooks]

Yeah, that's the exact tool I bought and used for this job, except it's re-branded as the Titan 51535.

So yes, I did get those results using the eastwood on-vehicle tool... I'm thinking it was the Ni-Cop and not so much the actual tool though since it worked perfectly on steel line every time I used it

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/titan/tools---equipment/mechanics-tools/tubing-benders--cutters---flaring/9912f4429c0d/titan-double-flaring-tool/ttn0/51535

I have never used "Ni-cop" for anything, so can't comment on experience, always steel or CuNi. My limited knowledge of metallurgy tells me that nickel as the main alloy is going to make the tubing less malleable.

 

[5030]

Brake lines are generic. Either double bubble or single bubble. Cheapy tools won't grip the lines.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Look up JEGS or PAW, performance automotive wholesale. I don't know what JEGS stands for. But both are top notch.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Yeah I might go that route if this ends up not working...

I bought a prefabbed line from O'Reilly's (BH2201317A) but the thread on one of the ends of the line is incorrect even though the O'Reilly's website says it fit's a 2012 Ram 2500 4x4. Went to put it on yesterday and only 1 fitting was correct, so I figured I'd cut it off, put the old fitting on the new line and re-flare it... which didn't work out due to the el cheapo flare tool (which is being returned today)

I wouldn't mind having extra line and a good working flare tool in the shop so next time anything like this happens I can fix it and not have to make a run to the store or wait for parts to come in

I buy the pre made lengths and couplers to go with them.

 

[5030]

Buy my brake line in bulk rolls always and always Ni-Cop. Much cheaper and don't corrode either and is easy to bend-form and flare.

 

[5030]

SE Michigan huh? So am I. You can borrow my flare tools if you want to...

No issue. You'd cream your pants if you walked in my shop. I have more machine tools and hand tool than I'll ever need.

 

[Death Row Dave]

Inline flaring tool is the answer , I recently purchased one , I have 3 old style flare tools , want to buy one ?


Another tip , only use NICOP tubing and never look back . E careful on imposters , magnet will not stick to NICOP , it will stick to copper coated line .