TruFuel 50-1or Stihl 50-1 or Red Armor 50-1??

[BX23S-1]

All the alcohols. Then we can turn up the compression. Boost and power !

 

[BX23S-1]

Here is the list of oil ratings

https://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/2T_EV_LIST.pdf

 

[ultrarunner]

Serious carbon build up. Look around some of the pro arborist and chainsaw forums. There is TONS of information with why the oil is so bad. I noticed how carboned up my saws were getting. Then i started looking around some other forums for some answers, and there were many others out there that had issues with it, too. Many have said the cheaper Stihl oil was better than the ULTRA-HP. Some of the forums had the data sheets posted where what oil was rated and what ones weren't. Stihl ULTRA-HP is NOT "JASO FD" rated from what i`ve found out. Ever since i started using the Red Armor 2-stroke oil, i am no longer having carbon problems at all. (Red Armor also has fuel additives in their 2-stroke oil that keeps your gas fresh, ULTRA-HP does not) That alone convinced me that people knew what they were talking about, and why they won`t use the ULTRA-HP at all.

This was one of Stihl`s claims. Its right on their website!

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/oils-lubricants-fuels/oils-and-lubricants/oilhpultra/#reviews

"This fully synthetic oil is also highly biodegradable, degrading by 80% in 21 days."

I would post the forum links in here for you, but the ADMINS & MODS will likely frown on it.

Appreciate the reply… I bought Ultra because of the extended warranty but have yet to have a gasoline tool with a warranty claim.

Max I use is about 15 gallons of mix a year so I’m not qualified by experience.

 

[jyoutz]

I know, I'm hoping it doesn't happen here

I have one fuel supplier about 10 miles away that sells the 91 octane ethanol free, but most places don’t carry it.

 

[jyoutz]

I like the Tru-Fuel cans and try to keep a couple of them around for when I have to lend a saw to my sons. eliminates the worry of them "straight gassing" the saw. They are also handy when I anticipate the job may require more than a saw tank of fuel but less than a gallon. And they are easy to refill with my own mix. But to my dismay they start rusting on top after about 6 years.

I have used the tru fuel in my Echo weed wacker and found it to work well. But it is expensive, so I normally mix my own with ethanol free gas.

 

[mrmikey]

mrmikey said:
I know, I'm hoping it doesn't happen here

It eventually did, can't get normal gas anywhere here now, it's all ethanol crap. People were saying Shell Premium....nope I even wrote Shell and their reply was all their fuel regardless of octane is mandated to have ethanol.
Brings on a whole new procedure for me now when putting away equipment for the winter.
Saws and trimmers (in which I've always used Echo two stroke oil and pump gas) used to fill them up, come spring they'd start right up no problem, now I'll run them dry. Pressure washer I'll have to run dry and coat the inside of the fuel tank, generator and Zt same thing, what a bunch of BS.
On another note about exhaust screens in two stroke's. I've owned my trimmer and saw for over 7 years now. Just took the exhaust screens out of both to have a gander. Both were perfectly clean, not a bit of carbon on either. I attribute it to the oil, Echo, and the fact I run them both wide open, the saw 100% of the time the trimmer 95%.

 

[sdef]

I used to mix my own 2-cycle fuel using name brand oil (which one escapes me now) and non-E fuel for my Husky XPs, that were picky about their fuels. I stumbled onto an excellent Home Depot TruFuel sale eight years ago, and my stock of 2-cycle oil has sat unused since. I do not use much 2-cycle fuel these days and exceed TruFuel's storage times continuously, with no issues and all equipment start and run well.

I also use Mr. Funnel's fuel filters of various sizes with all of my stored gasoline and diesel.

 

[bmg88201]

Old thread, but worth adding my 2 cents.
I strictly run VP 50:1 when i can`t find Echo Red Armor locally.
My saws love the stuff, and i`ve NEVER had any carbon issues with Red Armor 50:1, or VP 50:1.

You can get VP 50:1 (94 octane) right at tractor supply (at least ours carry's it)
You can get Red Armor 50:1 (93 octane) at most any Home Depot

I`ve tried mixing my own (non-ethanol) for years, the canned fuel is far better.
You`d have to buy your non-e gas from a dedicated pump to get a better non-e gasoline that is TRULY non-ethanol.

When you buy your non-e gas from a multi selection pump at the local gas station`s, that pump is going to give you some e gas in it until the hose and filter is cleared, and THEN, you`ll get your non-e gas coming out of the ground tanks. I`ve noticed many times buying non-e at the pump, my saws ran like sh*t, because there was some E gas mixed in it. If you don`t use a chainsaw much, stay away from the gas stations and just buy some VP or Red Armor for your occasional use.

VP & Red Armor:
Unopened - 5yr shelf life
Opened - 2 yrs shelf life

View attachment 806376
View attachment 806377

All be damned, I never thought about the fuel still left in the pump hose from the ethanol blends. I wonder how much 91 octane non ethanol fuel I actually got when I fill up a 1 gallon jug at the pump.

 

[shooterdon]

All be damned, I never thought about the fuel still left in the pump hose from the ethanol blends. I wonder how much 91 octane non ethanol fuel I actually got when I fill up a 1 gallon jug at the pump.

I normally fill 2-4 five gallon jugs at a time so do not have the contamination issue. I run non-ethanol in the Mule and wood processor. Used to mix my own 2 cycle but have gone to pre-mix as I use so little of it now. My 2 cycle machines run better on pre-mix. I wait for sales and buy a gallon or two depending on how good the sale is.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

I notice more of a difference in the equipment the gas goes in having issues vs the ethanol content.

1985 honda 4 wheeler. Sits for 6 months to anyear. Fires right up.

Cheap replacement carb on my yamaha. Sits a month and the cheap pot metals are corroded down. I think the quality of the cast metal is much worse.

Lawnmower has a plastic carb. Doesnt corroded. But also never ran good from the start.

 

[xyz123]

Just make your E-free pumps has it own hose. Other side of pump has hose for ethanol gas here.
Never a problem here and I still check to be sure somebody hasn't made mistake.

VP 40:1 for me in OPE and Gen and Boat just the efree.

I go through to much mix and efree to be paying for canned prices.

 

[kenmbz]

No ethanol free here at any stations.
Use the can gas for my big saw.
Mix my own with echo oil for everything else.
Everything still works and the plugs are not gummed up, but I usually run everything dry before putting away.

 

[two_bit_score]

Putting a shut off valve in your fuel line is absolutely worth the trouble.

 

[oldballs]

Why's that?

 

[5030]

Using Tru-Fuel 50-1 or Red Armor (when I can find it). Sure it's expensive but I don't use all that much to begin with

Stihl oil is garbage, carbon in the exhaust port garbage.

 

[mjonesnh]

Like others have said about the Stihl Ultra oil, I was having carbon issues also. Changed over to Echo Red Armour and carbon issue went away. Have a local station that has 90 octane ethanol free gas with a dedicated hose to the pump so no mixing with other gasolines. All 2 strokes get the same mix @ 50:1. All my equipment starts and runs better since I made the change to Red Armour oil.

 

[5030]

The other issue with Stihl pre mix oil is, it not only makes a lot of carbon but it clogs up the EPA spark arrestor screen (I run the arrestor screens in all my saws as a safeguard against sparks that may set the grass on fire when I'm cutting). Not sure why it does that (excessive carbon) but it does.

 

[BX23S-1]

Like others have said about the Stihl Ultra oil, I was having carbon issues also. Changed over to Echo Red Armour and carbon issue went away. Have a local station that has 90 octane ethanol free gas with a dedicated hose to the pump so no mixing with other gasolines. All 2 strokes get the same mix @ 50:1. All my equipment starts and runs better since I made the change to Red Armour oil.

My exact findings as well. Red Armor, or VP, i`m rockin the saws with ZERO issues anymore.

 

[5030]

Spent the entire day(from 8AM until 4Pm) bucking oak and sasafrass trees today. Took my ancient 028 Stihl (I bought it new in 1975) and the little Echo CS top handle. Used the Echo to cut off suckers and the 028 for bucking logs. An extra loop for each and my trusty 1.5 gallon can of Synthetic fuel and a jug of bar oil.

Sennebogen demonstrated their forestry cutter (was told they sold 3 of them) and my buddy got the wood so I gave him a hand. Got a solid month's work to do. Cutting the logs into 17 foot lengths and loading them on a tri axle GN trailer. Al the twisted branches cut cut to 14" long lengths and loaded in his trailer.

Got to get a hold of one of my arborist customers, there is a huge pile of brush and limbs under 4" that will need chipped.

My rule of thumb is, when I start getting pitch buildup on the backside of the tooth, time to change loops.

Need to start using the Timber Wolf too. Great day and had fun and dinner was served too.

 

[John_Mc]

I did not have problems with carbon buildup when running Stihl Ultra, but I did not run much of it. I only used it when I could not find the Husqvarna XP+ synthetic blend oil.

THe Husqvarna XP+ meets the JASO FD standard, which is higher detergency and less ash than the FB spec.

Stihl Ultra meets the JASO FB spec.

The lubricity requirements of FB and FD are the same, but FD spec calls for higher detergency, and has more stringent exhaust smoke and exhaust system blocking requirements.

There are rumors floating around that using Stihl Ultra in a Husqvarna saw will void the warranty due to the FB vs FD thing. I have not been able to confirm those rumors.