Does Anyone Buy Used Tractors?

[Hay Dude]

Due diligence. Don't buy from people you would not trust with something as valuable as your hard earned cash. Listen to the seller's story. If the story sounds fishy walk away. If you cannot assess the equipment properly or the investment is rather significant pay a 3rd party to inspect the machine. It's called a PPI. A pre purchase inspection can save you from buying the wrong car or tractor. Especially handy when the seller is not the owner.

I have done this, but it doesn’t guarantee success. It’s not foolproof.

One time I bought a tractor much too far away from me to test out myself. Hired local dealer who carried their brand (AGCO Massey). The technician dispatched for $300 to look at the tractor for me was also well acquainted with the seller, who spent a lot of money over the years at their dealership. To the technician, I was just some outsider paying for ONE hour of service. He was actually representing the seller more than me, the buyer.

He checked every box on the checklist as being “operable”. When I got it, the AC didn‘t work and the front brakes were not working either. That was $6,000 in repairs.

 

[LouNY]

I have done this, but it doesn’t guarantee success. It’s not foolproof.

One time I bought a tractor much too far away from me to test out myself. Hired local dealer who carried their brand (AGCO Massey). The technician dispatched for $300 to look at the tractor for me was also well acquainted with the seller, who spent a lot of money over the years at their dealership. To the technician, I was just some outsider paying for ONE hour of service. He was actually representing the seller more than me, the buyer.

He checked every box on the checklist as being “operable”. When I got it, the AC didn‘t work and the front brakes were not working either. That was $6,000 in repairs.

But when buying where you can't physically put your hands on a tractor or any equipment I do believe that hiring a local "expert" to look over the product is your best bet. Some times it doesn't work out well but often it will help.

 

[scootr]

I have done this, but it doesn’t guarantee success. It’s not foolproof.

One time I bought a tractor much too far away from me to test out myself. Hired local dealer who carried their brand (AGCO Massey). The technician dispatched for $300 to look at the tractor for me was also well acquainted with the seller, who spent a lot of money over the years at their dealership. To the technician, I was just some outsider paying for ONE hour of service. He was actually representing the seller more than me, the buyer.

He checked every box on the checklist as being “operable”. When I got it, the AC didn‘t work and the front brakes were not working either. That was $6,000 in repairs.

Ouch. I would have raised hell with the seller and the dealer.
I sent a car I was looking at buying out of state to a dealer for a $200 pre purchase inspection. They said it looked good. Only thing they found a few bolts missing in the in the CV joints. My buddies talked me out of buying that one. We will never know if the missing bolts were indicative of serious neglect or not.
When I looked at my Kubota it looked like new with 147 hrs on it. Oil was clean. The owner was moving out of state, I took it.
My Terex came out of a local dealers rental fleet. It had 1500 hrs on it and was dented and scraped all the way around. lol
Great running machine. Talk about heavy duty. Their main product line is mining equipment.

 

[Hay Dude]

But when buying where you can't physically put your hands on a tractor or any equipment I do believe that hiring a local "expert" to look over the product is your best bet. Some times it doesn't work out well but often it will help.

Yep, that’s what I have done 3 or 4 times now and it has worked for me all but the one time.

Just have to realize that theres a good chance the company you hire may be more on the sellers side, if they do business with the seller.

I guess what one could do is ask the dealer if the seller is a customer of theirs, but where does it end.

 

[Hay Dude]

Ouch. I would have raised hell with the seller and the dealer.
I sent a car I was looking at buying out of state to a dealer for a $200 pre purchase inspection. They said it looked good. Only thing they found a few bolts missing in the in the CV joints. My buddies talked me out of buying that one. We will never know if the missing bolts were indicative of serious neglect or not.

Raised hell with the seller how?

It’s buyer beware, bro.

The dealer was a different story. I paid him to be “independent” and give an unbiased rendering of the tractors condition. Over the phone from 1,000 miles away in Canada and he basically told me to pound sand.

The GOOD thing is I got it cheap and I love the tractor, so even with the repairs, I am happy.

My point is, don’t buy used from long distance unless you REALLY like it and it’s cheaper than you expected.

 

[scootr]

Obviously buying local is best. You get to talk face to face with the seller and see the machine.

 

[jjeff]

Imho a good experience with a overbuilt qaulity brand of tractors thats been used and abused and might look likes its fallen off a flatbed several times but still runs, and operates like it's supposed to (somewhat) is what sells me every time while other buyers won't even look at it no matter how cheap. L4150 5k hrs l2850 2.5k hrs both have been used and abused by previous owners and sometimes inadvertently learning how to operate it by me put away wet and keep coming back for more lol.

 

[jjeff]

Here's a used up (cheapest cab tractor I could find at time) only had to replace the rad and built front grill guard bumper, yooper rigged hydraulic clutch shifter. hogging 10 acres +Xmas tree rows problem free for over 5 yrs now, only regret is it's impossible to find a parts tractor for it at scrap prices cause they apparently don't die lol.

 

[5030]

I'm gonna post this up for anyone, anywhere that ever considers buying a used Kubota tractor, far away or even somewhat local...

Kubota's, especially earlier models with hydraulically actuated PTO's have an inherent issue and that is...

The PTO brakes on Kubota's consist of one or possibly 2 wet brake discs and they are prone to failure if the owner had used the tractor to run an implement like a brush hog or any implement where the implement kept driving the PTO when the PTO was disengaged.

Why I always use an over running coupler on my brush hogs (the pull type or the bat wing) because neither have a built in over running clutch and will drive the PTO until they wind down and that destroys the PTO brake that is internal in the tractor.

Easy to tell if the internal PTO brake is shot, just grab the output shaft (wear a glove so you don't get greasy) and turn it (tractor engine off, PTO not engaged). If it turns more than 45 degrees in either direction or just rotates freely, the internal PTO brake is shot and that requires some serious shop time to repair because it requires a split to access the hydraulically actuated PTO clutch pack.

It only takes a few times with an implement free wheeling and driving the PTO stub to destroy the PTO brake discs.

not a good design far as I'm concerned but it is what it is at least on older Kubota's. Don't know about the newer ones, just the older pre 4 units.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

PTO brakes suck, I would not fix one if it did fail! I hate the things.

SR

 

[jjeff]

I'm gonna post this up for anyone, anywhere that ever considers buying a used Kubota tractor, far away or even somewhat local...

Kubota's, especially earlier models with hydraulically actuated PTO's have an inherent issue and that is...

The PTO brakes on Kubota's consist of one or possibly 2 wet brake discs and they are prone to failure if the owner had used the tractor to run an implement like a brush hog or any implement where the implement kept driving the PTO when the PTO was disengaged.

Why I always use an over running coupler on my brush hogs (the pull type or the bat wing) because neither have a built in over running clutch and will drive the PTO until they wind down and that destroys the PTO brake that is internal in the tractor.

Easy to tell if the internal PTO brake is shot, just grab the output shaft (wear a glove so you don't get greasy) and turn it (tractor engine off, PTO not engaged). If it turns more than 45 degrees in either direction or just rotates freely, the internal PTO brake is shot and that requires some serious shop time to repair because it requires a split to access the hydraulically actuated PTO clutch pack.

It only takes a few times with an implement free wheeling and driving the PTO stub to destroy the PTO brake discs.

not a good design far as I'm concerned but it is what it is at least on older Kubota's. Don't know about the newer ones, just the older pre 4 units.

On my 4150 it was smoked when I bought it it will spin without engaging pto at idle been like this for years doesn't seem to effect much besides someone's ocd. Can stop the spinning by applying light pressure to shaft when it's not engaged However if you have ocd shouldn't be buying used up tractors, . My l2850 had an overrun coupler and pto doesn't and never did freewheel.
I did buy an overrun coupler for my 4150 cause it's like a 6-8" shaft extension if your buying used implements with shorter shafts or installed a pats or quick hitch and need a few inches.

 

[Rayrla]

Fantastic thread! This thread and several others should be grouped under required reading for first time tractor buyers.

 

[jjeff]

I tend to follow the rule of it's not broke (or still somewhat usable) don't split a 40 yr old tractor that's still very usable, If the need does arise due to other issues I will obviously fix the pto brake.

 

[jjeff]

Definitely there's a few folks on here I wouldn't hesitate to drop some coin to buy a older used tractor vs new, after reading a few posts on this forum, provided I was looking and they were put on the market.

 

[rScotty]

True, even if selling for equal dollars, the depreciation hit is larger as the sums increase. But finding a machine that's being sold for honest reasons can be a bit of roulette. Too many people band-aid and decide to sell after discovering internal damage or the need for an expensive repair. I am not sure what fraction of the relatively new second-hand tractors on the market fall into this category, but personally found problems with both vehicles and tractors I've bought, which would have caused me to cancel the deal if discovered pre-purchase.

I haven't had that experience. In fact, the opposite is more likely to be true - A used machine is likely to be well cared for and proven to be reliable. Plus it often comes with extras like manuals, spares, and options that I might be reluctant to spend for if I were buying new.It's pretty easy to tell if someone is deliberately covering up something.

There is some sort of instinct involved I guess, because I often know at a glance whether or not I want to pursue it. Sometimes that happens just walking up to their house.
A key part of buying used is to ask the owner why he is selling and evaluate what he says. I often ask that question first and evaluate it against what I am seeing. If the sum doesn't make instinctive sense to me, I don't waste my time. I just say, "Sorry, it's not what I am looking for." and leave.

Sometimes a person will say something like,
"Well, what is it worth to you? What would you be willing to pay"
To me, a statelment like that is a reminder I should have already been gone.
I don't buy used to save money.

rScotty

 

[gladehound]

I think most who ask questions about buying a tractor on TBN buy new because they are new to tractors (thus all the questions) and because of this are uncomfortable buying used. I'd guess there's a lot of buying and selling used that you never hear about.

Believe me, it's very easy to sell a used tractor. Sold my first tractor after using it 7 years for 88% of what I bought it for (used) and it only took 3 days to complete the sale with the deal locked up on day one and multiple parties interested. It was a manual transmission Kioti back before Kioti's were as popular as they are now. I don't think the big names retain more value, they just cost more period, new or used.

It is easier to finance new, and most people don't have money. The best deals on the used market are cash. That's probably a big driver for people to go new as well.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Lately, all I've have been buying is used, there's some great deals out there.

Like this 60hp tractor/loader with 1600 hrs on it for 8k,

I've already made more than 8k with it doing custom rotary cutting.

SR

 

[5030]

The ONLY reason why I bought the second M9000 was because I needed a second tractor so I didn't have to be changing implements so often and because everything that fits the M9 cab I own interchanges with the open station so I only have to keep one set of filters on hand and they both use the same lubricants and because I'm familiar with them.

The issue with the PTO clutch brake pack being shot is, the PTO will freewheel constantly from the parasitic drag on the drive pack.

 

[5030]

I guess if I ever decide to sell mine, which is very likely because at 73, time to start winding down the farming and haying, Maybe I should list them on here. Both are in pristine condition and well cared for. The open station will need new tires but that is it. The cab tractor is completely optioned out with 2 speed PTO, 3 sets of remotes with flow control valve, creep gears, ac, air ride seat, am-fm, rear wiper and rear facing camera. Both have cast centers and both are front wheel assist with matching loaders and quick attach for the FEL acessories plus the the cab tractor has the front remotes as well.

The OS only has 2 sets of remotes and a single speed (540) pto.

 

[jjeff]

All you need for most weekend warrior implements is 540 pto if you put a hydraulic top link on it and still need another remote get a multiplier as a cost effective way of adding remotes, at least in my experiences.