Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question

   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #1  

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I just replaced my trailer (10K) brakes and while I was at it I did the bearings as well since they had some age on them. First let me say I have done bearings on NEW axles before but not replacement on long time USED axles. I followed all the specs as per usual on the bearings but I always worry about the brake adjustment with new drum brakes.

I took it out for a test drive of about 2 miles and using my IR heat gun checked the hub temps after a mild brake burnishing. All were within a degree or so and less than 100 degrees.
I then took it out on the highway for about 10 miles at 55-60 mph and then came back via back roads. When I got back the right side hubs were 125 and 109 degrees and the left side hubs were 101 degrees.
Not exactly an overheat but an interesting difference. Thought about sun angle but it was equal in exposure for heating. Jacked up the two sides (independently) and the wheels would lock with the same amount of brake controller force thus the brakes are adjusted the same.

I am getting ready for a 500 mile trip with a full load and do not want to run into an issue. I have never looked at hub temp differential as closely as this before even though I do check hub temps every time I stop at a rest area but only to check that they are not overheating.

Is there any reason to suspect that I have an issue with my new bearings or is this differential normally seen?
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #2  
I would think if you had one brake adjusted a little tighter than the others it would tend to run warmer as it would be the first to engage.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #3  
Did the wheels turn free without dragging when it was jacked up? As long as they did I wouldn’t worry much about it.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #4  
That's not real uncommon, I had the same situation when I re-did trailer brakes and bearings on my old 14k equipment trailer. Are they Dexter EZ Lube with grease fittings under the dust caps?
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I would think if you had one brake adjusted a little tighter than the others it would tend to run warmer as it would be the first to engage.
That is what I initially thought but when I rechecked each one they locked at 1.6 on the brake controller but at 1.4 they rolled with about the same amount of force.
Did the wheels turn free without dragging when it was jacked up? As long as they did I wouldn’t worry much about it.
Turned free enough that I could do it with one hand without any real effort
That's not real uncommon, I had the same situation when I re-did trailer brakes and bearings on my old 14k equipment trailer. Are they Dexter EZ Lube with grease fittings under the dust caps?
Yes they are Dexter EZ lube hubs with Dexter 12 x 2 hubs, Replaced complete brake assembly, inner/outer bearings, and races but original hubs.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #6  
your fine, 10 degree's is literally nothing
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question
  • Thread Starter
#7  
your fine, 10 degree's is literally nothing
Actually 24 degree after 10 miles at 55-60 and then 10 miles at 30 to 35 mph, That is the left side compared to right rear which was the high side. Just seemed to be a bit large of a difference.
 
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   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #8  
Seeing as how they are EZ Lube Did you pack the bearings by hand first? If not I would put some more grease in to make sure I had enough, you should see it pushing back out towards the opening when the grease has thoroughly covered the inner bearing. I have heard of people overfilling and supposedly ruining the seal, but I have mine full and have never had a seal problem.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #9  
15 years ago I replaced the brakes, bearings & hubs on my old Eager Beaver tri-axle trailer. I bought the kits from Dexter Axle that includes everything from the backing plate out. Noticed when packing the bearings they had China stamped in them. Wasn't happy about that, but gotta' be Dexter approved, right..?? Wasn't my first rodeo and had repacked these and replaced other bearings & brakes on my other trailers.

I'd pulled that trailer more than several times hauling tractors to shows. Always felt the hubs when I got to where I was going, or pulled off to check chains, get a pop etc. Just the normal warm. I'd bought a Massey 180 and was on my way to pick it up. About halfway there I made a sharp right hand turn where I could see the side of the trailer and noticed the right front tire and drum completely missing, and only the spindle was there. Pretty much went into panic mode hoping it didn't hit anyone, or anything. I immediately turned around and backtracked. Drove back about 4 miles and there was the assembly leaning up against the guardrail like someone put it there. I'm assuming it rolled there. It looked OK from the backside, like the spindle nut came off.

I took it apart when I got home, and the outer bearing cage had broken in several pieces letting the rollers out, and the hub simply slipped over the spindle nut.

I ran the part numbers and found some NOS Timken/USA bearings on ebay. Installed, and pulled that trailer for who knows how many miles for 10-12 years, taking them off every 3 years to repack. Never had a problem with those up until I sold it when I bought my new trailer.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #10  
I would recheck the bearings on the 125 degree wheel. That is significantly hotter for such short trips. If the brakes are not too close and rubbing while not activated, Possibly the bearings are bad or didn't get greased well enough or the castle nut is too tight.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Seeing as how they are EZ Lube Did you pack the bearings by hand first? If not I would put some more grease in to make sure I had enough, you should see it pushing back out towards the opening when the grease has thoroughly covered the inner bearing. I have heard of people overfilling and supposedly ruining the seal, but I have mine full and have never had a seal problem.
Hand packed the bearings. Yes supposedly if you over fill under high pressure the EZ lube setup you can blow the back seal. They state to never use anything other than a hand grease gun for that reason. Apparently their claim is that the electric or pneumatic guns pump grease to fast and pop the seal. Only own hand grease guns so easy for me to not screw up.
I would recheck the bearings on the 125 degree wheel. That is significantly hotter for such short trips. If the brakes are not too close and rubbing while not activated, Possibly the bearings are bad or didn't get greased well enough or the castle nut is too tight.
Should be greased well enough as I did exactly the same on all four wheel assemblies. All were installed and torqued to 50 ft lbs by the spec then backed off and hand tightened only before locking the castle nut.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #12  
Actually 24 degree after 10 miles at 55-60 and then 10 miles at 30 to 35 mph, That is the left side compared to right rear which was the high side. Just seemed to be a bit large of a difference.

If the wind wasn't a straight head or tail wind then the wheels on the windward side of the trailer would be getting cool air while the lee side would be getting air warmed by the pavement or engine or both.
 
   / Trailer brakes and bearings replaced question #13  
The sun on one side can lead to a 10 deg or more difference side to side.

If it were me, I would test again for a short run and if the same results I would back of the castle nut one quarter turn on the 125 deg bearing. I suspect you are fine as is but I'm over cautious pulling a trailer.
 

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