Aluminum car trailer vs steel

[plowhog]

I have a gas motorhome. I want to tow a car-- either 4 wheels down (car only) or on a trailer. Weight is a concern as there are mountains in every direction.

I found a lightweight trailer-- but it is aluminum. I know nothing about aluminum trailers. Is aluminum up to the rigors of road transport with the load of a vehicle on top?

I'm looking at a 7x14 trailer, with 4" tubes. Or their slightly beefier model with 5" tubes-- 7x16. Only about 100lbs heavier.

So, anyone have comments on the strength and durability of aluminum trailers in this application?

Here is a trailer I am considering:

https://bd2cd193-38f9-4c25-9aa4-31b8cbd2df18.filesusr.com/ugd/fa5355_7b5bf08b8878403fb9246d96530559ef.pdf

 

[mrmikey]

Me, I wouldn't ever consider an aluminum trailer for anything. More prone to cracking at the welds or severe stress points and when they do crack, they are hard to repair as they have to be very clean and not everyone can repair them. I say that as a welder for almost 50 years with both steel (majority) and aluminum.
As for the design "channel tongue" another nope, go with tubing. If you ever get into a situation where it's loaded to the max or on a rough road, you're looking for cracked diagonal braces where they're under the front edge of the deck from flexing. IMHO the best style of tongue is one that is a single center tube that goes back two preferably three bunks and two diagonal braces (same idea as what they have now) from the coupler back a couple of bunks either side.
ST tires, I'd go with LT tires, something with some steel belts, not just all nylon.
Just my two cents (1.5 canadian ) worth

 

[plowhog]

the best style of tongue is one that is a single center tube that goes back two preferably three bunks and two diagonal braces

Something like this only with tube not channel?

 

[CliffordK]

First, do those trailers do what you need?
7000 lbs GVWR - 1500 lbs load = 5500 lbs. That should carry most cars, but also give it a bit of redundancy, so perhaps a car up to about 4000 lbs???

I picked up an older ALUMA brand trailer. I think having some abuse before I got it. I haven't used it much yet, and need to do some "tuning" on it. For some reason, at least some of the brakes were disconnected, so that needs fixed.

The biggest problem is a "Y" shaped tongue as above. 2 bolts hold the hitch on, and they've hogged out the attachment point and the whole hitch is mighty loose.

I'm going to replace the hitch attachment with a piece of tube steel to go over the aluminum tongue extension,

The decking is a little washboarded, especially on the ramps. So, the truss decking design isn't good enough to keep it in good cosmetic shape.

Will the trailer ultimately be useful? Absolutely YES.
Will it replace my 10K utility trailer? NOPE.

 

[CliffordK]

Oh, Mom & Dad had an all aluminum horse/stock trailer (3 or 4 horses) built a while ago. It did very well for their use. Perhaps a few aluminum repairs around the rear door hinges or latch, but overall it held up very well, perhaps better than many of the big brand trailers that are around.

Aluminum can do well in the right environment.

 

[Hughman]

What are you towing? I've been flat towing since the mid 80's but I only do wranglers and a samurai.

 

[plowhog]

What are you towing?

Either a Jeep Wrangler, or a Honda Fit. The Fit weighs less, 2,600lbs vs about 3,400.

But if I have a trailer I could put a Polaris ATV / motorcycles on it instead.

I still have my towbar but its overkill since I used to dingy tow a quad cab 4wd pickup truck. Behind the 600hp ISX Cummins diesel I didn't even know it was there. A whole different ballgame with a small gas coach. I have the Ford 7.3 Godzilla engine, but even so, I'm already down to 50mph going up Sherwin grade out of Bishop, CA. Without towing. Then another 4 similar mountain passes before I get home. My max two capacity is 5,000.

 

[mrmikey]

Something like this only with tube not channel?

Yup, except the main tongue is back further so it's under one more bunk.and the diagonals are bit further forward toward the coupler.

 

[deserteagle71]

I wouldn't be afraid of an aluminum trailer at all, considering your application. 8 years ago I bought an Aluma Model 7816 all-aluminum trailer and it has held up perfectly despite being used mostly on washboardy dirt roads. It has thousands upon thousands of miles on it - I've towed a car on it to Texas from Nevada, and my Jeep all over the west coast and my side by side also. I've had to do NOTHING as far as repairs to it. I did paint it white because I preferred that to the aluminum color (deck is aluminum also); I also mounted a 4' high piece of plywood across the front because gravel off the towing vehicle's tires was messing up paint and glass on whatever was on the trailer. The fenders are quick and easy to remove in case the car doors don't clear.

 

[Spanky100]

Either a Jeep Wrangler, or a Honda Fit. The Fit weighs less, 2,600lbs vs about 3,400.

But if I have a trailer I could put a Polaris ATV / motorcycles on it instead.

I still have my towbar but its overkill since I used to dingy tow a quad cab 4wd pickup truck. Behind the 600hp ISX Cummins diesel I didn't even know it was there. A whole different ballgame with a small gas coach. I have the Ford 7.3 Godzilla engine, but even so, I'm already down to 50mph going up Sherwin grade out of Bishop, CA. Without towing. Then another 4 similar mountain passes before I get home. My max two capacity is 5,000.

plowhog

As suggested by Hughman flat towing is a clear option with a vehicle that can be flat towed. Plus you save the weight of the trailer that will be a great help pulling your long grades.

The trailer is only necessary if you want the trailer for other uses which sounds like you might.

I have rented 24 foot Uhaul trucks with the 7.3 Ford Godzilla engine and it is fine except with the long grades. It will never be a 600HP ISX Cummins Diesel as you already have commented.

Spanky

 

[BarryTX]

I wouldn't be afraid of an aluminum trailer at all, considering your application. 8 years ago I bought an Aluma Model 7816 all-aluminum trailer and it has held up perfectly despite being used mostly on washboardy dirt roads. It has thousands upon thousands of miles on it - I've towed a car on it to Texas from Nevada, and my Jeep all over the west coast and my side by side also. I've had to do NOTHING as far as repairs to it. I did paint it white because I preferred that to the aluminum color (deck is aluminum also); I also mounted a 4' high piece of plywood across the front because gravel off the towing vehicle's tires was messing up paint and glass on whatever was on the trailer. The fenders are quick and easy to remove in case the car doors don't clear.
View attachment 876749

View attachment 876750

View attachment 876751

That looks pretty solid! My uncle recently retired and looking to hit the road more often and bring their quad bike. His F250 got a new camper so he had ordered new tires and dually wheels, and will be looking for a new trailer next.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Me, I wouldn't ever consider an aluminum trailer for anything. More prone to cracking at the welds or severe stress points and when they do crack, they are hard to repair as they have to be very clean and not everyone can repair them. I say that as a welder for almost 50 years with both steel (majority) and aluminum.
As for the design "channel tongue" another nope, go with tubing. If you ever get into a situation where it's loaded to the max or on a rough road, you're looking for cracked diagonal braces where they're under the front edge of the deck from flexing. IMHO the best style of tongue is one that is a single center tube that goes back two preferably three bunks and two diagonal braces (same idea as what they have now) from the coupler back a couple of bunks either side.
ST tires, I'd go with LT tires, something with some steel belts, not just all nylon.
Just my two cents (1.5 canadian ) worth

I have a trailer built with tubing. Never again. The road salt gets into the tubing and rusts it out from the inside. I also have a trailer built with C channel and I beam. It's definitely not as stiff but also definitely does not have a salt problem.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have an aluminum trailer and it's not had to have any repairs at all, and I've owned it for about 10 years, it's an Aluma brand.

SR

 

[Richard001]

I picked up an older ALUMA brand trailer. I think having some abuse before I got it. I haven't used it much yet, and need to do some "tuning" on it. For some reason, at least some of the brakes were disconnected, so that needs fixed.

The biggest problem is a "Y" shaped tongue as above. 2 bolts hold the hitch on, and they've hogged out the attachment point and the whole hitch is mighty loose.

I'm going to replace the hitch attachment with a piece of tube steel to go over the aluminum tongue extension,

Big mistake. Aluminum and steel are far apart on the Galvanic scale. The Aluminum will rot away in a few years.

The below table can be used as a quick guide to select compatible metals. Where two materials meet in a green region the corrosion potential can be thought of negligible, meaning, a good combination. Materials that meet in the red zone however should be avoided or used with caution.

 

[Hughman]

As suggested by Hughman flat towing is a clear option with a vehicle that can be flat towed. Plus you save the weight of the trailer that will be a great help pulling your long grades.

I've found the most important thing with flat towing a jeep behind the RV through the mountains is to have an auxiliary brake system in the toad. I use rvibrake.

Not sure how the Honda would fare being flat towed, but the Wrangler is a no brainer.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Big mistake. Aluminum and steel are far apart on the Galvanic scale. The Aluminum will rot away in a few years.

How many years is a "few years"??

My wife just informed me that I bought my Aluminum trailer 15 years ago, and there's NO rot on it at all!

SR

 

[Richard001]

How many years is a "few years"??

My wife just informed me that I bought my Aluminum trailer 15 years ago, and there's NO rot on it at all!

SR

Al on Al is fine. It becomes a problem when dissimilar metals touch. The time for the Al to rot away depends on the conditions. Salt, water, damp operating and storage conditions will accelerate the process.

Places like steel bolts holding on a metal part is where you will see the problem.

Dissimilar metal issues can get involved, and I, by no means, are an expert on this subject. There is a lot of information on the internet for those who wish to learn more.

 

[mrmikey]

I have a trailer built with tubing. Never again. The road salt gets into the tubing and rusts it out from the inside.

I can see that happening if the joints are not tight. When I built mine, I drilled and tapped a 3/8" hole in the tubing frame and poured a couple liters of waste oil inside.

 

[DarkBlack]

Big mistake. Aluminum and steel are far apart on the Galvanic scale. The Aluminum will rot away in a few years.

The below table can be used as a quick guide to select compatible metals. Where two materials meet in a green region the corrosion potential can be thought of negligible, meaning, a good combination. Materials that meet in the red zone however should be avoided or used with caution.


View attachment 876852

If he uses galvanized steel, and galvanized fasteners, he shouldn’t have any meaningful corrosion

 

[plowhog]

The below table can be used as a quick guide to select compatible metals.

There is something about the chart I don't understand.

If I start with aluminum, and go to the right over to steel, it is red.

But if I start with steel, and go to the right over to aluminum, it is green.

What am I missing?