Aluminum car trailer vs steel

[Richard001]

Good point. Perhaps further investigating is in order.

 

[Minsid]

There is something about the chart I don't understand.

If I start with aluminum, and go to the right over to steel, it is red.

But if I start with steel, and go to the right over to aluminum, it is green.

What am I missing?

Each row is referring to what metal will corrode first when in contact.

Take the first row. Magnesium will corrode first when in contact with pretty much everything except itself. Now go down to Aluminum. It will corrode before everything except Zinc and Magnesium. Now down to steel, it'll rust before cast iron and after aluminum.

This table is why posts above said you'd be okay with aluminum-steel contact if the steel was galvanized. The zinc galvanization will protect aluminum too but if it wore through or failed the aluminum would be next in line.

 

[DarkBlack]

There is something about the chart I don't understand.

If I start with aluminum, and go to the right over to steel, it is red.

But if I start with steel, and go to the right over to aluminum, it is green.

What am I missing?

 

[CliffordK]

I believe all aluminum trailers will have a steel hitch and steel bolts, shackles, springs, and axles. Depending, of course, on the actual suspension details.

It may be a good point to use either heavy coated hardware, or galvanized hardware when using with aluminum. Or, in some cases stainless hardware.

However, the only time I've encountered bad galvanic corrosion was using galvanized steel pipes in contact with copper pipes. I believe a couple of inches of the steel pipes corroded really badly inside and out.

I'll pull the hitch from my Aluma trailer and inspect it shortly.

 

[5030]

I have a gas motorhome. I want to tow a car-- either 4 wheels down (car only) or on a trailer. Weight is a concern as there are mountains in every direction.

I found a lightweight trailer-- but it is aluminum. I know nothing about aluminum trailers. Is aluminum up to the rigors of road transport with the load of a vehicle on top?

I'm looking at a 7x14 trailer, with 4" tubes. Or their slightly beefier model with 5" tubes-- 7x16. Only about 100lbs heavier.

So, anyone have comments on the strength and durability of aluminum trailers in this application?

Here is a trailer I am considering:

https://bd2cd193-38f9-4c25-9aa4-31b8cbd2df18.filesusr.com/ugd/fa5355_7b5bf08b8878403fb9246d96530559ef.pdf

Keep in mind that aluminum trailers 'rust' as well as steel trailers and if they develop structural issues like a crack in the frame, repairing them will always cost appreciably more that repairing a steel trailer simply because an aluminum trailer repair involves TIG welding and good TIG welders don't come cheap and neither does their equipment whereas a steel trailer can be easily and cheaply repaired. I weld exotic metals here and my shop rate is $130 bucks an hour and repairing an aluminum trailer with TIG welding is a pretty slow process, hence, shop time adds up pretty quick.

One thing about an aluminum trailer and that is, you never have to paint it whereas a steel trailer will, at some point require painting as well as sandblasting if it's in poor condition. Myself, I have a steel gooseneck trailer and I've refinished it more than once due to corrosion and at some point (steel or aluminum trailer), you will have to replace deck boards as well as replace running lights. If they are LED, then maybe not but I've had LED running lights fail as well and then there are the brakes, tires and suspension components that will require servicing and / or replacement.

Toss up. Steel will be less expensive but heavier. Maintenance will be more frequent but aluminum will still require maintenance as well.

Aluminum will allow you a somewhat higher load capacity but in a small trailer like you are looking at, it won't be much at all. Aluminum trailers will always cost more initially so for me, it's a toss up. All distills down to how long you plan on keeping it versus the initial cost but be apprised, both have baked in maintenance costs. Outfit I retired from had all aluminum flat bed trailers because it allowed them to haul more weight and the resale value was higher, but so was the initial cost so again, it's a wash. In your case again, the added cargo capacity will be inconsequential.

 

[5030]

It may be a good point to use either heavy coated hardware, or galvanized hardware when using with aluminum. Or, in some cases stainless hardware.

Commercial aluminum flat bed trailers ALL use plastic inserts between the dissimilar metals like where the steel suspension hangars mount to the aluminum frames, but even that over time will fail as the anodic corrosion bridges the gap between the aluminum components and the steel components. That was an almost a constant battle the maintenance shop where I worked at as a driver/ mechanic had to deal with.

 

[bigtiller]

Yeah, but an all aluminum trailer looks nicer in a parade.

A local politician put his crew on my 20' Aluma trailer in a Labor Day parade. After the parade, a lot of people wanted to know more about the trailer. They had no interest in his politics.

 

[5030]

You might ne into looks but I'm not. I'm into useability and service life and 'yeah', that is where I'm at. Besides, an aluminum trailer after it ages and gets white rust corrosion on the outside. looks like hell anyway and if it breaks you'll pay like hell to get it repaired.

 

[bigtiller]

I just wanted to tell a funny incident from my past.

 

[5030]

Had a few myself, like loosing rounds off the GN while driving down the road because the rearmost strap came off...

Or, loosing one of my steel loading ramps on the Interstate and having a car run over it (was before I made then spring loaded flip up ramps), the ramp loss pushed me to fasten them differently and so did the cost of having the car repaired, least the state cop didn't ticket me for an unsecured load either time. Did some fast talking both times and the cop was nice as well. I played the poor farmer routine and it worked. I did have to get the tractor and fetch a couple 4x5 net wrapped 1000 pound rounds off the berm however. Had to retrieve the ramp out of the slow lane on the Interstate as wel and my buddy owns a recovery and body shop business so I had him fetch the car and repair the damage and the people that hit it were local so they weren't all, that upset, especially when my buddy came and got the car with his rollback. The couple was local and knew him, just like everyone else knows him as he's the Township Supervisor as well. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't. I did in both instances. Not like I don't know all the township officials, my wife is on the Township board. I try to stay clear of politics as a rule.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Keep in mind that aluminum trailers 'rust' as well as steel trailers and if they develop structural issues like a crack in the frame, repairing them will always cost appreciably more that repairing a steel trailer simply because an aluminum trailer repair involves TIG welding and good TIG welders don't come cheap and neither does their equipment whereas a steel trailer can be easily and cheaply repaired. I weld exotic metals here and my shop rate is $130 bucks an hour and repairing an aluminum trailer with TIG welding is a pretty slow process, hence, shop time adds up pretty quick.

More bad info, wire feeding Aluminum is no problem at all. I've done it myself.

SR

 

[pmsmechanic]

I try to stay clear of politics as a rule.

Your abundance of opinions on this forum suggest otherwise.

 

[5030]

More bad info, wire feeding Aluminum is no problem at all. I've done it myself.

SR

Not bad information at all. In reality a wire feed (MIG) gun welding aluminum produces an ugly and most times insecure weld. I guess if you like gobbly gook welds then using a MIG welder with a spool gun and aluminum wire is ok but it won't ever happen here in this shop. The shop I retired from tried that with really mixed results and finally went to TIG for substantial repairs.

I guess what you consider acceptable and what I consider acceptable and structurally sound are 2 different things entirely and we do it every day here in aluminum, stainless and low alloy steel.

Have at it. I bet your welds are not only fugly but structurally unsound as well.

I would never let you weld any exotic alloy for me, ever. End of story.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Not bad information at all. In reality a wire feed (MIG) gun welding aluminum produces an ugly and most times insecure weld. I guess if you like gobbly gook welds then using a MIG welder with a spool gun and aluminum wire is ok but it won't ever happen here in this shop. The shop I retired from tried that with really mixed results and finally went to TIG for substantial repairs.

Even more bad info!

Lots and LOTS of Aluminum skiffs are wire feed built every year, do you think all those folks who depend on them with their lives to make a living would buy them if they weren't well built? They are used in the oceans all over Alaska, in some of the roughest waters in the world!

You obviously don't know anything about this subject, so you just spit out more BS!

SR

 

[5030]

Your abundance of opinions on this forum suggest otherwise.

Forums are all about opinions last time I checked and opinions are like butt holes, everyone has one and most of them stink at least some of the time.... FYI, I own and operate a welding and fabrication shop and have 2 full time employees and while I mostly putter around in the shop and get in the way, I do hold my AWS certification in TIG welding and I'm going for my nuclear certification presently. I know what I'm talking about when it comes to welding exotic metals and along the way I got my Journeyman's card in Tool and Die making and design from Standard Products in Cleveland, Ohio. So I have distinct opinions about such things as welding and machine shop principles. For me farming (growing hay) is just a diversion, a hobby so to speak. Gets me out in the field and away from the shop much to my employees delight I would assume. they know what they are doing and need little supervision, if any. Been gainfully retired since I was 56 and enjoying every minute of it as well. I have no financial worries at all and my wife and I also own 3 rental properties, 2 of which are paid for and the third is close to being paid off which is my end retirement game plan. Don't really value your comments at all. They have no value for me what so ever. Been on this forum a long time and seen a lot of people come and go. To me, you are nothing but an electronic signature and nothing else. Just want to make that clear to you....

Have a nice day or should I say evening. I am.

 

[5030]

Even more bad info!

Lots and LOTS of Aluminum skiffs are wire feed built every year, do you think all those folks who depend on them with their lives to make a living would buy them if they weren't well built? They are used in the oceans all over Alaska, in some of the roughest waters in the world!

You obviously don't know anything about this subject, so you just spit out more BS!

SR

Read my last post as it also applies to you...

I know more about welding and machine shop practice than you will ever know and I'll leave it at that other than have a nice day and keep your ego under control... It's getting larger by the minute.

My last comment is wire feed aluminum welding on sheet aluminum and producing structurally sound welds on heavy gage aluminum are 2 entirely different things and I've seen some of the production style spool gun welding on boats and while it may stick together, it's fugly and most likely won't pass a die scan test. Spool gin welding sheet aluminum and welding for structural soundness on heavy gage are 2 different animals entirely. But then you already know that or should if you are what you say you are, which I doubt.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Read my last post as it also applies to you...

I know more about welding and machine shop practice than you will ever know and I'll leave it at that other than have a nice day and keep your ego under control... It's getting larger by the minute.

I don't have to know much of anything about welding to know more than the line of BS you are trying to spoon feed people here! lol

SR

 

[CliffordK]

Had a few myself, like loosing rounds off the GN while driving down the road because the rearmost strap came off...

My trailer usually looks like Spiderman has visited once I get loaded.

However, my goal is to have at least 2 straps on each item in any direction on the trailer. So, if a strap completely vanishes, hopefully I won't lose my load.

A strap woven into a W shape still only counts as a single strap for redundancy, although it could have several times the breaking strength of a single strap.

An item that may roll generally gets more care than something like a pallet that might just sit in place with normal driving conditions. And, stuff in the middle of a load may be generally protected by stuff around it.

 

[Bronco82]

Back to the poster's original question, the trailer does look good, "lightweight", can handle the load you're planning on using it for, and seeing as how it will mainly be highway towed, I think would suffice nicely for your application.

 

[Paystar]

Maybe some brands are better, but I'm never buying an aluminum trailer again.
Except for maybe a small atv trailer.

They are great in that they are light to tow, don't rot out, no painting required.
But mine cracks every time I use it.
Bring it to the welders, get it fixed, tow it home and it's cracked again.
Luckily not on critical frame points, but always the welds that hold the fenders on. Any part that vibrates at all.