I did something very similar, but home-made, with 2" perf square tube inside 2-1/4" perf square tube, and a welded foot plate on the bottom. Use a pin to set the height.
I always worried that the uneven ground I usually find myself on would cause them to not "line up", so I never considered those type of ramps.
Pretty flat around here so not a worry, but just a couple weeks ago I had to pick up my kids 328i when the fuel pump died and he had pulled over so far that one ramp was pass the shoulder and was raised off the ground. I laid a 6' aluminum ramp on top to extend and it worked out just fine once the weight of the car was on it. Main problem was the steeper angle of the ramps that weren't made for a car with a 4" clearance
Just be careful, and block the wheels on both sides of the tires and on both sides of the trailer! It is very easy for the trailer to start to move when you shake it a little by driving up on it!
I drive our 6x6 on it now without the truck attached. Should I quit? (attached here)
Nice machine!
Probably shock and trying to figure out what was going on. He could have kept going forward or backed up. Anything but what he did would have been better.
Not an issue with a hydraulic dove tail...if the tail is lowered to the ground like it's supposed to be when loading or unloading.
Yikes yeah I just watched that vid for first time. Dude made exactly the wrong decision, forward or backwards would have been fine. What could he even have done if he magically made it into the truck? Nada.
When I drive our 6x6 onto a unattached trailer, the ground is flat, wheels chocked and the rear of the atv wheels are still on the ground when the hitch goes up, then you inch forward to let it back down. Rear tracks or wheels are still on the ground as it settles back down. I Rarely DO THIS since its not much fun to do. Point is you can.
Died?
