Flail Mower New to Me- Seppi SMO 200 Flail Mower

[leonz]

I removed the deflector rod and all the shot deflector plates yesterday. I may buy a new 3/4" rod and weld the bolt tab to it. The current rod apparently started as an 18MM rod, is closer to 17.5MM now. I want to switch to deflector chain, but am wondering what size chain would fit on a 3/4" (pretty close to 18MM) rod. Obviously, the ID width of the link would need to be large enough to slide on the rod. Looking on line it appears that 1/2" chain has an ID large enough for that, but that size chain does not seem like what I see hanging on mowers in on line pictures. The optional Seppi chains don't appear to be 1/2" in the parts pictures. Suggestions/ideas would be appreciated.

Concerning rotor balance- with the rotor completely stripped, I notice that when I spin the rotor by hand, it always comes to rest in the same location. That seems to indicate an out of balance condition. I inserted one bolt/nut at a time opposite the "heavy" side until it stopped settling in the same place. It took 3 bolts/nuts to balance the rotor. I weighed the 3 assemblies and they total 1 pound-5.31 ounces. My question(s) is(are)- how close to perfectly balanced are rotors on other peoples machines and if not perfectly balanced, is the vibration significant or tolerable?

Thanks again for the input,
Doug

Hello and good morning Doug.

With regard to switching from the using the original shutters to chains I would not do it.
The reason for not doing it is because the folding shutters prevent absolutely everything
from being ejected through the front of the flail mower, using chains will not do that.

About the gear box, I would pour some alcohol or gasoline in the gearbox and slosh it
around to help wash out the sludge.

Splash gear boxes are filled to the lower third of the housing height as a rule.

About vibration; it is really nasty business when your flail mower rotor is out of balance because
it is spinning at 2,200+- RPM and it is significant and can kill the rotor bearings quickly.

I will be candid and tell you to find a driveline shop with a high speed balancer and you will have a
flail mower that will work without fail once it is balanced.

It is better to roll the mower over and to leave it upside down on the floor as it will be safer to work on.

 

[blitzen]

Hey Doug and Leon, here is a quick video of the Seppi in action--Fair warning my video skills need improving hope you don't get nauseous watching the beginning. Running at 2000 rpm., in low range 2nd gear. Here is a link to a clip I put on YouTube...

 

[Doug Vee]

Looks like it is doing a great job for you. I just dropped off my rotor to have the waller-ed hammer ears replaced. Four sets will be R&R-ed.

Doug

 

[Doug Vee]

It has been a while, but I have an update on the Seppi flail mower.
Monday I finished tightening the hammers on the mower, greased it and test ran the mower. I was concerned that there may be an imbalance problem. I was pleasantly surprised to note that the machine ran very smoothly. There is an ever so slight vibration that you cannot even feel while in the field mowing.
After confirming that the mower ran smooth, I locked all the hammer nuts to the bolts and took it out to do the fall hay field mow down. The mower works really well. I am sure the hammers are not the best for grass, but I was very happy with the results.
I checked the gearbox after about an hour and half, and it was just barely warm, and the input seal was dry as a bone. I will finish up the field today and chalk up this mower as a decent acquisition.
The next project is to pursue rear remotes for the L48. I built an adjustable connector between the two parallel arms to be a "placeholder" for the offset cylinder until I can get the remote circuits in place.
Pictures below.

 

[blitzen]

It has been a while, but I have an update on the Seppi flail mower.
Monday I finished tightening the hammers on the mower, greased it and test ran the mower. I was concerned that there may be an imbalance problem. I was pleasantly surprised to note that the machine ran very smoothly. There is an ever so slight vibration that you cannot even feel while in the field mowing.
After confirming that the mower ran smooth, I locked all the hammer nuts to the bolts and took it out to do the fall hay field mow down. The mower works really well. I am sure the hammers are not the best for grass, but I was very happy with the results.
I checked the gearbox after about an hour and half, and it was just barely warm, and the input seal was dry as a bone. I will finish up the field today and chalk up this mower as a decent acquisition.
The next project is to pursue rear remotes for the L48. I built an adjustable connector between the two parallel arms to be a "placeholder" for the offset cylinder until I can get the remote circuits in place.
Pictures below.

View attachment 1381658View attachment 1381659

Congrats on your mower. Looks good. I have been impressed when using on autumn olive and other woody materials. I back up and over the target subject while running at a reduced rpm and then drop the mower increasing rpm's and pull forward--no more autumn olive.

 

[Doug Vee]

I back up and over the target subject while running at a reduced rpm and then drop the mower increasing rpm's and pull forward--no more autumn olive.

I will try that method with the scotch broom that line the edges of the field along the wood line. The Back of this flail mower is way more durable than the light 5' New Holland rotary cutter that I use behind my JD 855. I have already rebuilt the rear of that deck once.

Doug

 

[blitzen]

I will try that method with the scotch broom that line the edges of the field along the wood line. The Back of this flail mower is way more durable than the light 5' New Holland rotary cutter that I use behind my JD 855. I have already rebuilt the rear of that deck once.

Doug

Pushes them right over. I did the same for some smaller saplings and it ate them up too.

 

[Doug Vee]

It looks like a spoke too soon concerning the gearbox input shaft seal. It is leaking. Not terribly bad, but it is leaking. This is a pic of the front of the gearbox right after I bought the machine:

Has anyone here ever changed a seal on a gearbox such as this?

It looks like once the front cover is removed, parts 5-29 will come out of the housing. Then slide the seal (part #5) off the shaft and then slide the new seal back on. Am I seeing this right?

Thanks for your time,
Doug

 

[leonz]

Hello Doug,

I would prefer that you used corn picker grease for now as the shaft will be worn as well
and by using the corn picker grease you will not have leakage and dirt collecting on the
gearbox. There is no point in replacing the seal and not the shaft at the same time.

 

[Doug Vee]

Hello Doug,

I would prefer that you used corn picker grease for now as the shaft will be worn as well
and by using the corn picker grease you will not have leakage and dirt collecting on the
gearbox. There is no point in replacing the seal and not the shaft at the same time.

Leon,

Thank you for your reply. I will check into the corn picker grease. What is its consistency compared to 80-90 gear oil? I assume thicker, but will it pour into the gearbox?

Thanks again,
Doug