Tx Jim
New Member
Phillip
Sorry but I have no clue on hyd lift capacity of an AC tractor
Sorry but I have no clue on hyd lift capacity of an AC tractor
1969 JD 1020 diesel
- Thread starter PNW1020D
- Start date
beenthere
Super Star Member
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- Southern Wisconsin, USA
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- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
From jdparts
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0965.pdf
May not have the specific specs you are looking for.. but shows parts and numbers.
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0965.pdf
May not have the specific specs you are looking for.. but shows parts and numbers.
Tx Jim
New Member
I located this lift spec for a similar size later model JD tractor(model 2150) with a 175 loader of Lift to full height (at pin): 2015 lbs [914 kg] but 47 has 2'' dia. lift cylinder while 175 has 2.239 dia lift cyl.
Hello everyone!!! Long time no post!!! Man I am getting old!!!
I just wanted to give you all an update on the old 1020D, ask a few more questions, and show you all what I have been up to.
I finished the barn addition, and started to really get my shop dialed in so I can be the most productive I can.
I also serviced my PJ 14K trailer as well. Put some new tires on the rims, did all the inner and outer wheel bearings, brakes, etc.
I recently added a patio. The old 1020D was a great help moving the spoils for me, and spreading my base course material. Its a colored and stamped patio with a 2 color design (integral base color and release antique color). It did it for my brother's baby shower!!! Gonna be an uncle very soon!!!
Then I started another project that I have been wanting to complete for a couple years now. Building a new privacy fence out back behind the barn. I have those type of neighbors if you know what I mean....sigh... I finished it up with copper post caps, and a redwood stain (2 coats).
I also bought another piece of equipment. Its a Kobelco mini excavator. I have had it for about a year now, and just tackled adding a hydraulic thumb. Its was just me a my buddy. We learned all about built in pressure relief valves, locating the proper spool section in the manual, reading up on working pressures of curl cylinder vs. relief pressure of thumb cylinder, etc. etc. The thumb was homemade via my buddy. I just painted it last night.
Finally, I bought some new attachments for the 1020D. I got rid of my Land Pride 6' ripper, and my Kodiak 7' rear blade. I then picked up an old school JD model 80-2 rear blade, and an old box blade with rippers. I tore the old cutting edge off the model 80 blade, and am attaching a new one. I cleaned up the box blade, and bought some new Cat. 2 pins, and ripper pins. The older stuff is so much better built its hard to believe the stuff they are selling these days holds together.
And here are my questions:
1) I want to confirm how my FEL is plumbed. I also would like to know how much my tractor with FEL weighs (I know get on a scale), just a good estimate from you all? Tractor Data says ballasted, my little 1020D weighs about 6k. With my model 47 FEL, I am thinking that number goes to 7.5K. Then adding any of my heavier attachments, I would think another 800-1k , the total would be right around 8.5K? Does anyone know the approximate weight of the JD model 47 loader?
Here are some photos of my tractors hydraulic plumbing for my FEL. All this talk on the forums on how to properly plumb this FEL to my tractor talks about a ported filter cover, where the FEL return goes to. People say this is the "right way" to do it. It seems that I have the half *** way, and my FEL is plumbed into my SCV? Can someone please educate me on this topic as a whole? I want to one day add a hydraulic top link to run off of my single set of rear remotes. With that being said, because my FEL is plumbed directly into my SCV block, will with affect my hydraulic top link install?
EDIT!!!!
Per this post below, it seems I already have a ported filter cover??!! My filter cover looks just like the one shown in this thread via Tx. Jim. I thought that was just a drain plug hahahaha. So does this mean I just need to run one of my FEL hoses to that port?
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-ag-tractors/232720-adding-loader-2240-a-3.html
I just wanted to give you all an update on the old 1020D, ask a few more questions, and show you all what I have been up to.
I finished the barn addition, and started to really get my shop dialed in so I can be the most productive I can.
I also serviced my PJ 14K trailer as well. Put some new tires on the rims, did all the inner and outer wheel bearings, brakes, etc.
I recently added a patio. The old 1020D was a great help moving the spoils for me, and spreading my base course material. Its a colored and stamped patio with a 2 color design (integral base color and release antique color). It did it for my brother's baby shower!!! Gonna be an uncle very soon!!!
Then I started another project that I have been wanting to complete for a couple years now. Building a new privacy fence out back behind the barn. I have those type of neighbors if you know what I mean....sigh... I finished it up with copper post caps, and a redwood stain (2 coats).
I also bought another piece of equipment. Its a Kobelco mini excavator. I have had it for about a year now, and just tackled adding a hydraulic thumb. Its was just me a my buddy. We learned all about built in pressure relief valves, locating the proper spool section in the manual, reading up on working pressures of curl cylinder vs. relief pressure of thumb cylinder, etc. etc. The thumb was homemade via my buddy. I just painted it last night.
Finally, I bought some new attachments for the 1020D. I got rid of my Land Pride 6' ripper, and my Kodiak 7' rear blade. I then picked up an old school JD model 80-2 rear blade, and an old box blade with rippers. I tore the old cutting edge off the model 80 blade, and am attaching a new one. I cleaned up the box blade, and bought some new Cat. 2 pins, and ripper pins. The older stuff is so much better built its hard to believe the stuff they are selling these days holds together.
And here are my questions:
1) I want to confirm how my FEL is plumbed. I also would like to know how much my tractor with FEL weighs (I know get on a scale), just a good estimate from you all? Tractor Data says ballasted, my little 1020D weighs about 6k. With my model 47 FEL, I am thinking that number goes to 7.5K. Then adding any of my heavier attachments, I would think another 800-1k , the total would be right around 8.5K? Does anyone know the approximate weight of the JD model 47 loader?
Here are some photos of my tractors hydraulic plumbing for my FEL. All this talk on the forums on how to properly plumb this FEL to my tractor talks about a ported filter cover, where the FEL return goes to. People say this is the "right way" to do it. It seems that I have the half *** way, and my FEL is plumbed into my SCV? Can someone please educate me on this topic as a whole? I want to one day add a hydraulic top link to run off of my single set of rear remotes. With that being said, because my FEL is plumbed directly into my SCV block, will with affect my hydraulic top link install?
EDIT!!!!
Per this post below, it seems I already have a ported filter cover??!! My filter cover looks just like the one shown in this thread via Tx. Jim. I thought that was just a drain plug hahahaha. So does this mean I just need to run one of my FEL hoses to that port?
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-ag-tractors/232720-adding-loader-2240-a-3.html
Last edited:
BukitCase
Elite Member
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- Albany OR
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- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
I'll let the JD owners help on that Q -
Your single set of remotes can be turned into 2,3 or 4 depending on how many of these you have room/money for
Hydraulic Solenoid Selector/Diverter Valve, 13 GPM, 12v DC
They can mount wherever it's most handy, stacking them is as simple as getting longer thru bolts (and mounting push button switches on your remote lever, usually)
Each valve has 6 ports; with no power applied, the path is straight thru to the other side of the valve (pairs of ports on 3 sides) so that would be your primary (original) path. when you push the button, any flow you create by moving the remote lever will get "diverted" to the pair of ports on top of the valve.
2 diverters = THREE choices, depending on either NOT pushing one of the switches, or the first in line, or second...
This would allow you to have hyd toplink AND a hyd SIDE link - once you try this with ANY kind of blade, you'll reach for a club if anybody tries to take it away
If you're SURE you wouldn't ever need more than TWO remotes, there's a (slightly) cheaper, mechanical way
1/2" NPT 2 GPM Double Selector Valve | Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com
Downside - plumbing can be messier than electric since the hoses AND control need to be together.
I have those on both my smaller tractors ATM, one will likely get replaced with 4 extra remotes using stack valves - I have a couple of the solenoid ones for my 580B, will be getting a couple more before I start changing the hydraulics on that machine (2 to the loader for articulating a hyd. sickle bar, at least one to the hoe for a thumb)
Manuals - if you ordered 'em on DVD, I hope you got "searchable" ones - a lot of the less expensive DVD/downloadables are just PICTURES of the pages of a paper manual. The higher priced ones are USUALLY "searchable", which requires more effort to OCR those "pictures", converting them into ascii text so Acrobat can find all the instances with the word(s) "clutch", for example - MUCH more useable. I have some of each type, "fool me ONCE" as they say
'bout all I got for now (other than good job), HTH... Steve
Your single set of remotes can be turned into 2,3 or 4 depending on how many of these you have room/money for
Hydraulic Solenoid Selector/Diverter Valve, 13 GPM, 12v DC
They can mount wherever it's most handy, stacking them is as simple as getting longer thru bolts (and mounting push button switches on your remote lever, usually)
Each valve has 6 ports; with no power applied, the path is straight thru to the other side of the valve (pairs of ports on 3 sides) so that would be your primary (original) path. when you push the button, any flow you create by moving the remote lever will get "diverted" to the pair of ports on top of the valve.
2 diverters = THREE choices, depending on either NOT pushing one of the switches, or the first in line, or second...
This would allow you to have hyd toplink AND a hyd SIDE link - once you try this with ANY kind of blade, you'll reach for a club if anybody tries to take it away
If you're SURE you wouldn't ever need more than TWO remotes, there's a (slightly) cheaper, mechanical way
1/2" NPT 2 GPM Double Selector Valve | Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com
Downside - plumbing can be messier than electric since the hoses AND control need to be together.
I have those on both my smaller tractors ATM, one will likely get replaced with 4 extra remotes using stack valves - I have a couple of the solenoid ones for my 580B, will be getting a couple more before I start changing the hydraulics on that machine (2 to the loader for articulating a hyd. sickle bar, at least one to the hoe for a thumb)
Manuals - if you ordered 'em on DVD, I hope you got "searchable" ones - a lot of the less expensive DVD/downloadables are just PICTURES of the pages of a paper manual. The higher priced ones are USUALLY "searchable", which requires more effort to OCR those "pictures", converting them into ascii text so Acrobat can find all the instances with the word(s) "clutch", for example - MUCH more useable. I have some of each type, "fool me ONCE" as they say
'bout all I got for now (other than good job), HTH... Steve
Tx Jim
New Member
BukitCase
I think the hyd valve below you posted a link to is incorrect for a JD 1020. At 20 GPM one one have difficulty infinitely controlling a cylinder on a hyd system such as 1020 with only 10.5 GPM hyd pump output plus I saw no means to add or mention of being able to install a closed center plug in the valve you mentioned. I've never seen nor remember JD utility tractors similar to 1020 having more than 2 SCV's from the factory but granted one could add a 2 or 3 spool valve similar to the method utilized to control a frt end loader.
PS: I sold NEW 1020's & other similar JD tractors & also served as a JD dealer service manager for 13 yrs('74-'87)
1/2" NPT 2 GPM Double Selector Valve | Prince Mfg | Brands | Surplus Center
I think the hyd valve below you posted a link to is incorrect for a JD 1020. At 20 GPM one one have difficulty infinitely controlling a cylinder on a hyd system such as 1020 with only 10.5 GPM hyd pump output plus I saw no means to add or mention of being able to install a closed center plug in the valve you mentioned. I've never seen nor remember JD utility tractors similar to 1020 having more than 2 SCV's from the factory but granted one could add a 2 or 3 spool valve similar to the method utilized to control a frt end loader.
PS: I sold NEW 1020's & other similar JD tractors & also served as a JD dealer service manager for 13 yrs('74-'87)
1/2" NPT 2 GPM Double Selector Valve | Prince Mfg | Brands | Surplus Center
BukitCase
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,749
- Location
- Albany OR
- Tractor
- Case 580B, Long 460, Allis-Chalmers 160
Jim, in the position that selector valve would be plumbed all it does is take the two connections already there (2 remote QD's) and allow you to choose which of two circuits get actuated when you move your existing remote valve lever - I only chose that model because they don't show any smaller ones, but it's the existing remote valve lever (actually its valve) that determines max flow (less than the selector) and any feathering capability.
I have two of those valves on my 2 40 horse tractors, and they work fine as a quick way to get an extra remote. Not as "operator friendly" as my next step (4 stack valve with 2 floaters, +PB) but a lot easier to set up initially.
Because it's just a "selector", it shouldn't make any difference whether it's on an open or closed center system; granted, I don't have ANY of your JD experience, but wouldn't EITHER system put pressure on one or the other QD, and return fluid on the other one? Seems like the rest of the system wouldn't even know that selector was there... Steve
I have two of those valves on my 2 40 horse tractors, and they work fine as a quick way to get an extra remote. Not as "operator friendly" as my next step (4 stack valve with 2 floaters, +PB) but a lot easier to set up initially.
Because it's just a "selector", it shouldn't make any difference whether it's on an open or closed center system; granted, I don't have ANY of your JD experience, but wouldn't EITHER system put pressure on one or the other QD, and return fluid on the other one? Seems like the rest of the system wouldn't even know that selector was there... Steve
Tx Jim
New Member
BukitCase
I'm not comprehending exactly how the spool valve with control handle is going to be utilized as a "selector" valve but normally open center valves on a JD closed center system is a big No-No. After more thought on the valve in your link are you intending to hold lever of added valve while operating tractor scv control lever? If so then I agree with you that OC vs CC won't matter. If that's correct then I'm sorry for adding confusion although as I previously stated I would just install a multi-spool CC control valve similar to controlling a FEL on only need to operate one lever at a time.
I'm not comprehending exactly how the spool valve with control handle is going to be utilized as a "selector" valve but normally open center valves on a JD closed center system is a big No-No. After more thought on the valve in your link are you intending to hold lever of added valve while operating tractor scv control lever? If so then I agree with you that OC vs CC won't matter. If that's correct then I'm sorry for adding confusion although as I previously stated I would just install a multi-spool CC control valve similar to controlling a FEL on only need to operate one lever at a time.
Zebrafive
Super Member
I could not tell from your pictures how your loader is plumbed.
Does it have priority valve? If so, you add a Tee after the priority valve and connect the supply line to the loader valve to the Tee. The return line from the loader goes to the ported filter cover.
