1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader

[cycle_gator]

Stans1:

Very nice work. Curious does the manifold preheat work on your machine? I am still fighting with the hydraulics on my 580, but she is running. I did get the stabilizer fixed, but took your advice and went to a machine shop. They did great job.

Looking forward to more pics and progress.

 

[stans1]

Stans1:

Very nice work. Curious does the manifold preheat work on your machine? I am still fighting with the hydraulics on my 580, but she is running. I did get the stabilizer fixed, but took your advice and went to a machine shop. They did great job.

Looking forward to more pics and progress.

My manifold heater did not work, mainly because the my wiring harness had been so chopped up. Apparently one of the previous owners had remove the Stewart Warner gauge cluster and screwed an aluminum sheet metal plate with (3) 2" gauges: temp., oil pressure, and amp gauge. All of the other relevant monitoring gauges (speed, tachometer, fuel level) that tell you what your tractor is doing were abandoned or removed. So, there was no wire to the heater or ignition switch. I went online and found a rare heater (came from Canada) and will wire it in to work when I've completed my restore. I've got a new harness on order from: Agri-Services [agriserv@rochester.rr.com] and they have any and all of the old factory tractor harness wiring layouts, so my harness is custom to my particular tractor (Stewart Warner or Autolite), those particular years came with either gauge cluster.


Glad to hear that your stabilizer is working now. And as far as your hydraulics being a problem; it's the main reason that I started my tractor repair in the first place leaking hoses and cylinders, so I feel your pain.

 

[cycle_gator]

I need to buy the heater element, everything else works. Right now the biggest deal is the backhoe control valve. Front loader is tight as a drum, Backhoe leaks like a sieve. Anyway, keep up the great work.

 

[stans1]

Next installment on Front Axle Group:


Got the front axle group unbolted from the engine and hanging from my Crane. The pin that connects the axle to the housing was really worn, it didn't look like it had been greased for some time, so time to make a new one.


This one shows how much crud there was, even after cleaning with a power washer and degreaser several times. The only thing that took off the heavy stuff was a knotted wire wheel on my 4 1/2" grinder, sand blaster and elbow grease!


Here's one of my 20 ton H-frame, pressing out the old pin that was quite worn. It took quite a bit of pressure to get it out.


Just a closer look at my set-up and process.


Got the axle finally mounted and centered on my mill table and boring and cleaning up the parent metal and badly damaged bushing.


I had turned a bushing to a custom size, I made it a little larger, hoping to adjust for the wear and slightly larger pin.


Fitting the bushing in the new bore, which I later cut down to proper length and pressed it in with some Loctite as well.


The new bushing with grease relief you can see has been cut in the center.


I made a aluminum bushing to press in the needle bearings and seals on both sides of the vertical spindle. It made it real easy to stop before setting them too deep or shallow and keep them aligned to the bore.


Here is one of the finished bearing pressed to fit.


I spun a new pin with snap ring grooves and pressed in and ready for axle fit up.


Side view of the finished job.


Axle pin ready for axle. You can see some of the dents and scrapes on the cast housing. The drain holes were pretty rough too, so I bored them out with a step drill and cleaned up the places where a guy might catch or tear your hand open handling it later.


Fit up complete and ready for paint and mounting. I made some foam inserts to temporarily push into
the spindle holes to protect the bearings and seals from paint overspray.
Next post, I'll show you how the finished and painted front group turned out mounted where it's supposed to be.

 

[vulcancowboy]

I'm really enjoying watching the progress, thanks again!

 

[Billrog]

Your sure doing a bang up job of this rebuild. I have the same press and glued a strip of approx. 1/4" plactic down one of the inside vertical rails so the press wouldn't push sideways looks like you may have something you use like that on yours.

 

[stans1]

I'm really enjoying watching the progress, thanks again!

Glad you're enjoying the project. I've wound up grabbing the tiger by the tail with this Case and I'm into it too far to quit now, thanks.

 

[stans1]

I have the same press and glued a strip of approx. 1/4" plastic down one of the inside vertical rails so the press wouldn't push sideways looks like you may have something you use like that on yours.

If you are referring to the wood shims that you see on the table, you're correct. I had to alter the width of the table, cut off the old angle iron spreaders, weld in new wider ones and make it wider to accommodate the crankshaft throws or counter-balances when pressing off an end bearing. I made them out of hard maple with the band saw because it was faster than metal and it's what I'm used to working with from my past trade and put them on each side of the vertical in order to keep the table centered in the press.

 

[stans1]

Ok, here is a continuation of the front end group:


Here's looking at the left hand or port side of the front housing casting after priming and painting. Got it bolted onto the front of the engine and torqued up to specs. I couldn't believe how clean it looked compared to the old oil-dirt soaked condition prior to taking it apart!


Right side with hydraulic shaft mounted on flywheel ready for the pump.


Looking underneath and preparing for the axle.


Here I'm fitting the pump. As it turned out the pump wasn't the exact model no. that came on the tractor, but had the same gpm rating and shaft size, and I had to alter a couple of things to make it work.


I had just finished painting both the radius rod to the left and the axle on the right. Both are ready for installation. It turns out the bushing and shaft that mounts on the engine that connect the radius rod were completely worn out. So I fabricated a new bronze bushing and steel shaft pin.


Got the axle on a sling and then slipped it on the front housing pin. The crane sure makes things like this a lot easier to do


This of course is looking underneath with axle in place.


Got the radius rod on now and all bolted into position. You'll also notice I was able to install the rebuilt injection pump.


And finally the completed axle and radius rod, ready to install the spindles and hubs and power steering cylinders. I'll show how all of that went in my next submission. Thanks for tuning in for the progress.

 

[hcallaway]

By far my favorite project! Great attention to details and skill.

 

[vulcancowboy]

Progressing very nicely, I hope you aren't going to get any dirt on it when it is complete!

 

[stans1]

By far my favorite project! Great attention to details and skill.

Thanks for the kind words hcallaway, I have really been enjoying this restore project. Being retired has given me the time to do this properly and not rush it like I have had to with some of my other projects in years past. I'll be posting a lot more............

 

[stans1]

Progressing very nicely, I hope you aren't going to get any dirt on it when it is complete!

Yeah, thanks, it's the reason that I haven't posted regularly I'm also painting the house with my wife. Thanks for following my project, you've really been a faithful follower and it makes it worth the time that it takes to post. Here is a teaser photo, I'm a lot farther in my project than my posts, but I thought it would be more entertaining if I still posted in the order of completion.


I'm actually a little further than this picture, but I don't want to get too far ahead of myself.

 

[Billrog]

I had an old hoe similar yrs. ago and the nut on the top of the king pin or what ever it's called must be very tight or they tend to loosen and wreck havoc with the splines. The 1974 I had required 1,200 torch according to the manual. Looks like yours may have cotter pin don't recall if mine did or not. Nice work it will be worthy of every parade that Sparks Nevada has.

 

[stans1]

I had an old hoe similar yrs. ago and the nut on the top of the king pin or what ever it's called must be very tight or they tend to loosen and wreck havoc with the splines. The 1974 I had required 1,200 torch according to the manual. Looks like yours may have cotter pin don't recall if mine did or not.

Hey Billrog, your hoe must have been in the 580B or something of that series, because I don't think they made the 530 beyond 1967. I could be wrong though. And to be honest with you I don't know what configuration was used in the later hoes (early 1970's). But, I do know that they used a king pin arrangement on the 580C model and later (a much better deal). Mine has the vertical spindle that you are referring to as the king pin and you couldn't be more right in your assessment with the loosening of the spindle and upper spline that connected the steering arm. That arrangement was, I think, a week link in the early design for Case. I noticed when I first bought my hoe in 1998 that the guy I bought it from had welded both right and left steering arms to the castle nuts and washers. I don't think he understood the relationship between all of the components. After I cut of the old welds and cleaned up the nuts I wound up mounting both thrust washers in my lathe and removing about .030 off the face of each thrust washer so that when the nut was tightened it could pull the vertical spindle further towards the receiving spline in the steering arm, (they originally used shims to adjust the play between mating parts), it was a hit and miss kind of thing (why I didn't grease anything until I got a good fit). And with the thrust bearing sandwiched between both thrust washers I was able to get a nice tight mating between spines of the spindle and arm. You know it used to wobble so bad that I couldn't use the two top gears, so I never roaded it.

As for the parade, no one's going to want to see this old piece of yellow iron...............Ha, Ha..........

 

[wmonroe]

It is looking very good....and the teaser pic, wow! You are very skilled and I'm glad you are sharing this restore with us. I can't wait to see some pics or a video of it doing some digging.

 

[stans1]

I can't wait to see some pics or a video of it doing some digging.

Well, I'm glad you enjoyed the teaser, and really encouraged to share my project. I notice you've been following the project and that's real satisfying! You are correct too, I do plan to work it when it's completed, not a garage queen, but not regular work machine if you know what I mean? I've got a fair amount of jobs for it to do here at the place. You gave me an idea though, and that's to make a small movie when it's done, maybe, thanks. And I do plan on greasing all the pivoting and rotating parts regularly, I don't want it to deteriorate into the condition it was in before I started.

 

[stans1]

By far my favorite project! Great attention to details and skill.

Wow, you know I didn't go to the links below your post when answering you originally, but I'll tell you I'm impressed with your attention to detail and skill that your pictures show. I'm sorry that I missed that first time, I must have been tired or something. I was a contractor in the 70's, 80's, and part of the 90's. Did both custom residential and commercial, so I have an understanding when it comes to construction and I can identify sanitary work. And you sir look like you do it in spades!

 

[rutwad]

What an awesome rebuild!! I too have a 530c/k 1965 I believe. Right now I would be excited just to get it back running.

All this from a carpenter. I bet you are one heck of a builder!

 

[stans1]

I too have a 530c/k 1965 I believe. Right now I would be excited just to get it back running.

Thank you rutwad, I'm really glad you posted a picture of your machine. Shoot, I just shutter looking at it and thinking back at mine. I don't know how far you are going to go into yours, but I see some work ahead for you. I really like this old iron, it's not quite as heavy (weight wise) or big as the new Cases, but when they are running properly they can do a lot of work. In most cases; no pun intended, they can easily keep up with the modern tractors.