wmonroe
Elite Member
Your skills are impressive. This machine will be better than new when you're done.
1963 Case 530CK Backhoe/Loader
- Thread starter stans1
- Start date
- Views: 221402
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Part Three:
Here is a series of picture showing the steps that I went through rebuilding the stabilizer legs and shoes:
As you can clearly see in this picture the bores where the pins connected to both the shoe (lower) and the cylinder boss were severely worn. It took a thorough sand blasting to prepare it for inspection and painting later. I inserted one of the old pins just to give some scale. There was so much rattle and movement that the hoe would not stay steady as power was being transmitted through the legs to the ground. Also as I mentioned in a previous post, the cylinders were leaking and so were the hoses, something was going to have to be done.
I wasn't sure about welding on cast, but these bores were going to either have to be welded (interior build-up) then re-bored or the simpler solution seemed to be to weld some machined bosses on their faces. I have a younger brother who has been welding for around 40 years for a living and I called him up to get advise from him since he does so much of this type of stuff. He told me that both ends of the stabilizer arms were cast steel, not cast iron and he was correct. I just had to pre heat them with a rose bud and start welding!
After aligning the new bosses and tack welding them, I carefully welded up the bosses to the ends. Machined new pins to fit. You really have to be careful here because if you weld too much in one place and not across from each weld you can warp them and the pins will not fit! Anytime you weld most steels you are going to get some warp, it is mostly a matter of controlling and herding that warp.
I have the leg mounted and centered on the mill table. You can see a leveling block that I used at the one end in order to hold the stabilizer end perpendicular to the bore. You see there is a taper in both stabilizer legs and is about the only way to compensate for that taper. The set up always takes more time than the actual boring. I used an offset boring head and dialed for each pass and took about .020 at a time until reaching the right interior diameter for the (DOM) sleeve that I would later mount in that enlarged bore.
Just checking the fit this shows completed bore with an end cut of the same material that I was going to use for the sleeve
After checking that everything fits, I then prepared both ends of the sleeve and outer edge of the bore with a 45 deg. grind for a full pin weld.
The sleeve is in and this is the completed weld and is now ready for grinding flush with the face.
Completed face all flush and ready for fit up to the hoe to make sure I have not changed the alignment.
Out on the hoe I check for connection fit to see if the stabilizer leg will swing and have full range of motion, holy crap is it heavy! It really makes you appreciate what the hydraulics are doing for you! It fits, and is ready for paint. Notice the discoloration of both ends, that is from preheating the castings and welding.
So now it was time to prime both shoes and legs. By the way, I had to flush off the old flanges from the shoes fill the divots left from stray wash from cutting off the bent flanges, then grinding them flush. After prepping the surfaces on the shoes I welded new plate flanges 3/4 inch flat bar stock which I had bored with 1 3/8 inch holes for the new pins
First coat of Case colors over the primer.
Here is the finished product with new pins and sleeves and bosses waiting for the rest of the hoe to be done!
Here is a series of picture showing the steps that I went through rebuilding the stabilizer legs and shoes:
As you can clearly see in this picture the bores where the pins connected to both the shoe (lower) and the cylinder boss were severely worn. It took a thorough sand blasting to prepare it for inspection and painting later. I inserted one of the old pins just to give some scale. There was so much rattle and movement that the hoe would not stay steady as power was being transmitted through the legs to the ground. Also as I mentioned in a previous post, the cylinders were leaking and so were the hoses, something was going to have to be done.
I wasn't sure about welding on cast, but these bores were going to either have to be welded (interior build-up) then re-bored or the simpler solution seemed to be to weld some machined bosses on their faces. I have a younger brother who has been welding for around 40 years for a living and I called him up to get advise from him since he does so much of this type of stuff. He told me that both ends of the stabilizer arms were cast steel, not cast iron and he was correct. I just had to pre heat them with a rose bud and start welding!
After aligning the new bosses and tack welding them, I carefully welded up the bosses to the ends. Machined new pins to fit. You really have to be careful here because if you weld too much in one place and not across from each weld you can warp them and the pins will not fit! Anytime you weld most steels you are going to get some warp, it is mostly a matter of controlling and herding that warp.
I have the leg mounted and centered on the mill table. You can see a leveling block that I used at the one end in order to hold the stabilizer end perpendicular to the bore. You see there is a taper in both stabilizer legs and is about the only way to compensate for that taper. The set up always takes more time than the actual boring. I used an offset boring head and dialed for each pass and took about .020 at a time until reaching the right interior diameter for the (DOM) sleeve that I would later mount in that enlarged bore.
Just checking the fit this shows completed bore with an end cut of the same material that I was going to use for the sleeve
After checking that everything fits, I then prepared both ends of the sleeve and outer edge of the bore with a 45 deg. grind for a full pin weld.
The sleeve is in and this is the completed weld and is now ready for grinding flush with the face.
Completed face all flush and ready for fit up to the hoe to make sure I have not changed the alignment.
Out on the hoe I check for connection fit to see if the stabilizer leg will swing and have full range of motion, holy crap is it heavy! It really makes you appreciate what the hydraulics are doing for you! It fits, and is ready for paint. Notice the discoloration of both ends, that is from preheating the castings and welding.
So now it was time to prime both shoes and legs. By the way, I had to flush off the old flanges from the shoes fill the divots left from stray wash from cutting off the bent flanges, then grinding them flush. After prepping the surfaces on the shoes I welded new plate flanges 3/4 inch flat bar stock which I had bored with 1 3/8 inch holes for the new pins
First coat of Case colors over the primer.
Here is the finished product with new pins and sleeves and bosses waiting for the rest of the hoe to be done!
wmonroe
Elite Member
Very nice.
cycle_gator
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2009
- Messages
- 243
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
- Tractor
- Kubota L4310 GST;Case 580 CK (1968)
Want to rebuild one of mine? It is off a 580CK but appears to be dimensionally exactly the same. About 3/4 of the upper pivot boss, yes, the casting has broken away. Sot of a pie shaped piece. The remaining boss is severely egged out. Talk about lack of suability when applying power!!
My plan is to cut off the entire boss, machine in a 3 1/2 circle and use a lay-up of three different available DOM's to get a tube with 3 1/2 od/3/4 wall thickness to hold the "bearing piece of DOM a 3/16 walled 1 13/16 ID to hold the pin. I m not home right now so I cannot post a pick, but will do so soon.
How hot did you need to preheat the cast to get the weld to take?
My plan is to cut off the entire boss, machine in a 3 1/2 circle and use a lay-up of three different available DOM's to get a tube with 3 1/2 od/3/4 wall thickness to hold the "bearing piece of DOM a 3/16 walled 1 13/16 ID to hold the pin. I m not home right now so I cannot post a pick, but will do so soon.
How hot did you need to preheat the cast to get the weld to take?
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Cycle_Gator, sounds like you have a bigger problem than I had!
It appears that you have thought your problem through and have a solution; multiple DOM's to form your sleeve. Yeah I guess that will work.
Do you have access to a metal lathe? If you do I would get a chunk of round bar (cold rolled 1018) and bore a hole then machine it out to the dia. you need + a couple of thousands over to fit your pin. I am assuming you have a 1 3/4 in. pin like mine?
As to the pre-heat; I would heat it up to what you would think is about 500-600 deg. and then start your weld. The only reason I heated the pad or shoe end on one of the arms to red was; I had to bend the flange straight, it is not necessary for that much heat just to weld. It was not only egg shaped but bent as well (who knows how someone bends cast steel)! My brother explained to me that you just do not want to shock the cast by welding cold but that high heat is not necessary. Also, do not quench, just let it air cool after you weld it up. Ideally a guy needs an after oven to release the stress after welding but that is not realistic.
Good luck buddy.........
cycle_gator
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2009
- Messages
- 243
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
- Tractor
- Kubota L4310 GST;Case 580 CK (1968)
Thank you for the response and for sort of hijacking your post. My machine is similar to yours (a 1968 580CK) and shares some of the same issues. So I am really enjoying your super detailed posts and photos on how you are approaching the restoration.
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
Any new progress to report?
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Vulcancowboy, I guess I have just been caught up in the restore to write more. Also crushed a couple of toes after I knocked over a piece of 2"x 4' round bar over on my toes and I was laid up for a while, makes it kind of hard to stand for any length of time. Thanks for the interest, I'll be putting together some more entries......
OP
stans1
Silver Member
Hi again and here are more pictures and notes. Several months ago I started taking the tractor apart to get it down to just engine, torque tube final drive and axles. I had always planned to remove the pumps, starter, generator, power steering, and tubes and assorted hoses so that I could repaint and get rid of the red colored power train and parts.
Even though I had pressure washed my hoe several times before bringing it into the shop to disassemble, all surfaces still had a lot of built up grease, hydraulic fluid, oil and petrified dirt on them!
After I removed the front axle and radiator group I started scraping the muck and crud off of the engine and then put the wire brush on my 41/2 inch grinder and went to work.
Just removed the generator and front pulley on the end of the crankshaft. I found that the crank pulley had really been wallowed out from the crank nut coming loose, and between the resistance from the hydraulic pump that was attached to it really did a number on the woodruff key and pulley fit! I am positive in that condition it would have only been a matter of time before the pulley would have spun on the crank and failed. Leaving me in some place that would have required a service truck to lift the hydraulics to get access to and then fix the connection between crank and pump, so I was glad to find out now!
Engine Clean, ready to prime. You cannot see from the picture the bushing that I had to machine to take up the slack between crank nut and pulley, but I machined it tight enough to make a nice tight fit again including a new key and refurbished keyway. I put in a new oil seal then painted everything behind the pulley so as not to rust before mounting it back on the crankshaft.
Everything clean and the engine is completely primed. I now was starting on the torque tube, brakes and axle area.
Ok, the whole thing is clean as well as hand rubbed with lacquer thinner to remove any remaining grease or oil. Also, I mounted the steering pedestal so I could then mount the tank to check the fit before painting. I then removed the tank and pedestal and taped a couple of things and it is ready to paint. You will notice that the backhoe docking bar is still mounted on the left side. I have to leave one connection point from tractor to hoe to keep things stable.
The whole thing is primed and ready for the sand down. I personally like to use a scotch type pad to rub over the surface to help bond the new finish coat and also to rub off the many rag threads that pull loose from the lacquer soaked cloth.
Just another perspective of the fully primered powertrain. I taped all of the mating surfaces where the starter, power steering pump, and oil filter etc.
I used the Case color chart and painted it the newer Case color Power Tan. I like it better than the stock red that Case painted the 530ck. When you look at the newer hoes, 580 series, it just seemed more construction like, than the farm tractor color that was originally picked by Case.
In this picture you can see the a-frame rectangle tube that I stitch welded on to the boom at the rear of the picture. When you remove as much stuff as I had, it is the only way to keep things safe and stable. Later, they will be cut off and anyway I intend to install a newer boom that I had acquired some time earlier and shuck this one.
Just thought I would include one of the tranny and shuttle tube. Brakes are all cleaned out inside and I repaired the brake and clutch shaft that is contained in the rounded looking area with the two grease zirks. Had to really spend some time straightening both arms that attach to the bottom of the transmission casting (the area that is squared off and has three holes in the casting.
Just a shot of the right side of the power train and if you look at the shift levers you will see the old knobs. I was able to purchase new ones just like OEM from: McMaster-Carr . I wound up getting both shift knobs and backhoe knobs for a really reasonable price. I just painted these because it was easier than taping the threads.
Final view to show entire tractor power train. I still have to get the Roosa Master pump (fuel injection) rebuilt from a local shop. I'm really glad to be at this point on the project, most of the major parts have been cleaned up, so now I have a bunch of painting to do and then reinstallation of those part. In the following post that I make I will show you how I repaired other parts and the steps.
Thanks again for taking a look.
Even though I had pressure washed my hoe several times before bringing it into the shop to disassemble, all surfaces still had a lot of built up grease, hydraulic fluid, oil and petrified dirt on them!
After I removed the front axle and radiator group I started scraping the muck and crud off of the engine and then put the wire brush on my 41/2 inch grinder and went to work.
Just removed the generator and front pulley on the end of the crankshaft. I found that the crank pulley had really been wallowed out from the crank nut coming loose, and between the resistance from the hydraulic pump that was attached to it really did a number on the woodruff key and pulley fit! I am positive in that condition it would have only been a matter of time before the pulley would have spun on the crank and failed. Leaving me in some place that would have required a service truck to lift the hydraulics to get access to and then fix the connection between crank and pump, so I was glad to find out now!
Engine Clean, ready to prime. You cannot see from the picture the bushing that I had to machine to take up the slack between crank nut and pulley, but I machined it tight enough to make a nice tight fit again including a new key and refurbished keyway. I put in a new oil seal then painted everything behind the pulley so as not to rust before mounting it back on the crankshaft.
Everything clean and the engine is completely primed. I now was starting on the torque tube, brakes and axle area.
Ok, the whole thing is clean as well as hand rubbed with lacquer thinner to remove any remaining grease or oil. Also, I mounted the steering pedestal so I could then mount the tank to check the fit before painting. I then removed the tank and pedestal and taped a couple of things and it is ready to paint. You will notice that the backhoe docking bar is still mounted on the left side. I have to leave one connection point from tractor to hoe to keep things stable.
The whole thing is primed and ready for the sand down. I personally like to use a scotch type pad to rub over the surface to help bond the new finish coat and also to rub off the many rag threads that pull loose from the lacquer soaked cloth.
Just another perspective of the fully primered powertrain. I taped all of the mating surfaces where the starter, power steering pump, and oil filter etc.
I used the Case color chart and painted it the newer Case color Power Tan. I like it better than the stock red that Case painted the 530ck. When you look at the newer hoes, 580 series, it just seemed more construction like, than the farm tractor color that was originally picked by Case.
In this picture you can see the a-frame rectangle tube that I stitch welded on to the boom at the rear of the picture. When you remove as much stuff as I had, it is the only way to keep things safe and stable. Later, they will be cut off and anyway I intend to install a newer boom that I had acquired some time earlier and shuck this one.
Just thought I would include one of the tranny and shuttle tube. Brakes are all cleaned out inside and I repaired the brake and clutch shaft that is contained in the rounded looking area with the two grease zirks. Had to really spend some time straightening both arms that attach to the bottom of the transmission casting (the area that is squared off and has three holes in the casting.
Just a shot of the right side of the power train and if you look at the shift levers you will see the old knobs. I was able to purchase new ones just like OEM from: McMaster-Carr . I wound up getting both shift knobs and backhoe knobs for a really reasonable price. I just painted these because it was easier than taping the threads.
Final view to show entire tractor power train. I still have to get the Roosa Master pump (fuel injection) rebuilt from a local shop. I'm really glad to be at this point on the project, most of the major parts have been cleaned up, so now I have a bunch of painting to do and then reinstallation of those part. In the following post that I make I will show you how I repaired other parts and the steps.
Thanks again for taking a look.
vulcancowboy
Gold Member
Wow, you sure have been busy! Great pictures and write up, thanks!
