2305 with 47" 2 stage snowblower question

[chipsndust]

From LVU14264 J2, Product Services Information, Installation Instructions, Front PTO Kit:
NOTE: This kit uses a telescoping drive shaft. The smaller, inner shaft connects to the front PTO drive assembly, the larger, outer shaft connects to the transaxle shaft.
IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! The spring collars on the PTO drive shaft must lock in position on transaxle shaft and drive assembly shaft.

>It is possible to install the driveshaft "backwards" i.e., wrong end forward
>It is also possible to install the driveshaft w/o the couplers securely locked

From OMM147922 J2, Operator's Manual, Snowblower for 2210 Compact Utility Tractor, 47-Inch:
NOTE: For optimum performance, align attachment driveshaft yoke with mid-to-front PTO driveshaft yoke as shown.
(Sorry, I don't have any way to attach the diagram)

>When you slide the blower driveshaft coupler onto the PTO shaft, the yoke of the driveshaft should be in the same plane as the yoke on the PTO shaft. You can rotate the attachment shaft by hand until it's "lined-up" before coupling to the PTO shaft.

>Like saselker said, it's hard to put into words, but I tried.

 

[mistersweeper]

Well , I just got my snowblower back from the dealer today. As per my request they replaced the factory bearings with heavier bearings. The large driven sprocket was removed and the area the bearing flange mounts to was cracked. This is part of the actual impeller housing. Check this cause you can't see it unless the sprocket and bearing flange are removed for inspection. This turned out to be part of the vibration problem.. They welded a flange for the bearing onto this area of the housing for extra strength and support. Also they welded a solid bead of weld all the way around where the auger housing meets the impeller housing. They also drilled divots into the shaft for the impeller set screws and the driven sprocket set screws. The lock-tited the set screws when reassembling .

 

[Labrat]

I have a couple of pics that I took of the drive shafts phased correctly and incorrectly.
They are on my computer at work. I will post them on Monday.

 

[rlcowder]

Well, I got my blower back from the dealer. They said there was a layer of ice on the inside of the fan housing. It was really cold out when I was having problems. I think the problem is it melted in my shop then I took it out and it refroze in the housing. I will know for sure later today when I put it back on and move the piles left over from using the blade.

 

[myersjc]

Can you describe "in phase".

For me the problem set screws were the ones in the blower and gear drive graphic posted by rlcowder. set screw #5 would come loose allowing the fan to move forward until it struck the housing. I am still waiting for a good snow to see if it is fixed. Here in Minnesota it hasn't snowed much this year.

 

[Shawk]

Guys.... CHECK your chain tension. Bigtiller made a great point regarding chain tension earlier in the thread. After reading through the entire thread tonight I decided to check mine. I have 2 identical 47" blowers sitting in my garage right now and the unit on my 2520 is ULTRA quiet. I just installed a unit on my 2305 this weekend and it was definitely much noisier than my 2520. I checked the chain tension on both a few minutes ago for kicks and the new unit is ridiculously tight.... NO PLAY in it at all. The quiet, smooth running blower on my 2520 has a good amount of play. I'll loosen up the 2305 blower and post back. It's definitely waaaay to tight.

 

[Labrat]

Shaft phasing pics on 2210 front pto. Pic 1 is correct and pic 2 is not.

 

[Shawk]

Shaft phasing pics on 2210 front pto. Pic 1 is correct and pic 2 is not.

Where's the difference at?? I'd like to know... thanks Labrat

 

[rlcowder]

If you look at the "U" Joints you will see how they aren't right in the second pic. I got to run my blower this morning (8 inches) and the same thing happened. It got noisey and then bang, sheer pin. I turned on the heat in the shop and just looked at it. The fan/impeller would move at least 1/2 inch forward and back. I loosed the 2 set screw (had to use a torch to melt the loctite) moved the collar back and tightened it al up. It runs dramatically quieter now. I will check my shaft alignment in a little while and let you know if that makes a difference. It seems that when I lower the blower below level there is something in the drive line causing noise. I think its probably the front short shaft bearings so I will check there first. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Labrat]

I noticed several of things that impact the noise and vibration of these units.

1. You get a significant amount of deflection on the LONG mid driveshaft due to the quick connects not holding the yokes tight. This diminishes under load.

2. As Shawk said. Chain tension will make it vibrate and noisy

3. Loose set screws. Mine hade them along with the upper gearbox bracket left loose .

4. When the blower is in the float position the mounting points vibrate at the pins. This stops if you pick up the blower or put some down pressure on it

5. correct shaft phasing helps a little

The biggest noise eliminator was the heated cab with a radio!