3320 - Day One

[Killer_B]

I ordered a 3320 on 8/6/07 and was told it would take three weeks to come in. 12 days later, Saturday 8/18/07, I got a call at 8:30 am saying everything was in except the Frontier front angle blade. Would it be OK if they delivered later that morning? Let me think about it and call you back. NOT.

At 11:55 am the truck and trailer backs up my drive. My first impression: Man this thing is bigger than I remember.

Here's the package:

3320 Hydro, Turf Tires
300 CX W/ 61" HD Bucket
72" MMM
3rd SCV
Remote lines for angle blade on loader
Cool brush guard
Auto cruise
Telescoping lower links
Rear work light

Total price $26,500.00 OTD.

 

[Killer_B]

We get her untied and off the trailer. Spend about an hour going over everything. How to get the 72" 7 Iron deck off and on, removal and reinstall of the loader, etc. We sign some paperwork and off he goes. I hear my neighbor across the road yell to his wife " Nick's new tractor is here." He's happy because I have been using his since I sold my Kubota three weeks ago.

 

[Killer_B]

So here I am all alone with my new tractor. My 13 year old son comes out and says "Holy cow dad, that thing is big! Will it fit in the garage? Gee, I never thought of that.

So I retract the ROPS and ease her in. The height is fine. With the guard on the deck, there is about 2" clearance on either side. Perfect. I pull in and dump the loader. Time to mow some grass.

I get into position, lower the deck, engage the PTO and start to move. All I could think of was "Man, this thing is big!" I know, you farmers are laughing. But the size difference between the B (and BX) series Kubotas that I came from and this tractor is quite remarkable.

Half way through my mowing, my neighbor comes over on his Home Depot JD and says "man, that thing is ...." well, you know.

After a couple hours of mowing, fiddling with the electronics (whatever all those *match thingies are) and just generally enjoying the day, I parked it back in the garage. My wife arrived home from a day of shopping with her sister, got out of the car, and said, I kid you not, "Honey, that thing is realy big." I always love hearing that.

A few other observations:

Despite its size, the tractor is very nimble handling. I can actually get closer to trees with this tractor than I could my smaller framed Kub. This is probably due in large part to the BIG mower deck sticking out well beyond the tires.

The cruise, max speed, and roll out adjustments on the Ehydro are very nice. More than mere sales gimmicks, they are actually helpful in operating the tractor. Now I have to remember what the different ____ match terms mean.

The 7-Iron deck is a Sherman tank. It is almost impossible to overstate the beefiness of this unit. I honestly wonder if I even need a rough cutter. I tried doing some of my rough areas with the deck raised up a little and it worked like a charm. And, since it is suspended and doesn't bounce and bang along the ground like my last one, it is also much quieter, virtually silent by comparison.

The suspended seat is dreamy. My last two tractors were not equipped with suspended seats. This time of year the ground is rock hard. The difference in the ride quality is like night and day.

After reading all the "tippy" posts about this series, I was prepared to deal with that, and perhaps to move the wheels to their widest position if necessary. As it turns out, even the steepest part of my property is no problem. I am in Michigan.

I put the loader back on just to see if I could do it. I ran it up and down a couple times. It's true. You can lift, lower, curl or dump. Take your pick, but no two at once. Wierd. I also discovered something else by accident. If you remove the loader with the tractor in neutral, it pushes the tractor backwards, rather than sliding the loader forward. No gouges on the concrete floor!

So, I now have 3 hours on the tractor and a decent sense of how it operates and handles. All I can say is very nice. Very nice indeed. Deere did a commendable job of engineering a smooth, refined and nimble machine.

So the only significant unanswered question in my mind is with respect to durability. After having been spoiled by two virtually flawless orange machines, I will be expecting a lot of this one. I will do my part by holding to the maintenance schedule. I hope that in return I will get no leaky seals, flaky rockshaft valves, foggy instrument clusters, schizophrenic fuel gauges, etc. Only time will tell.

 

[RoyJackson]

Sounds like a nice machine! I think the 3320 is the best pick for most residential operators with 10 acres or less.

You'll find it a lot more comfortable if you mow with the loader off. By "comfortable", I mean you're less likely to hit things (that loader really sticks out a ways!).

As far as parking inside your garage...if it won't fit with the ROPS extended, think of a way to remind yourself (and any other operator) to fold the ROPS before entering the garage. If you don't do this, you will have damage to the garage sooner or later! The best one I saw (wasn't on TBN) was "FOLD THE ROPS" painted on the inside wall of the garage. This guy painted that sign after the garage door was repaired for the 2nd or 3rd time.

Your boy will be operating this machine soon enough. Set a good example for him by using the ROPS and seatbelt always!

Good luck and be safe!

 

[canoetrpr]

Congratulations!

Thats one awesome looking rig you've got there.

Not sure if someone mentioned to you or not ... that thing is big!

 

[Killer_B]

Sounds like a nice machine! I think the 3320 is the best pick for most residential operators with 10 acres or less.

You'll find it a lot more comfortable if you mow with the loader off. By "comfortable", I mean you're less likely to hit things (that loader really sticks out a ways!).

As far as parking inside your garage...if it won't fit with the ROPS extended, think of a way to remind yourself (and any other operator) to fold the ROPS before entering the garage. If you don't do this, you will have damage to the garage sooner or later! The best one I saw (wasn't on TBN) was "FOLD THE ROPS" painted on the inside wall of the garage. This guy painted that sign after the garage door was repaired for the 2nd or 3rd time.

Your boy will be operating this machine soon enough. Set a good example for him by using the ROPS and seatbelt always!

Good luck and be safe!

Thanks for the great tips, Roy. Especially the ROPS reminder on the garage door. I tend to get absent minded from time to time, and I shutter to think what my garage would look like with the door opening "enlarged" by the ROPS. I will probably pick up a stop sign and rig a hook for it that will grab onto the upper trim and hang down, hitting me in the face if I don't remove it first.

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks for the great tips, Roy. Especially the ROPS reminder on the garage door. I tend to get absent minded from time to time, and I shutter to think what my garage would look like with the door opening "enlarged" by the ROPS. I will probably pick up a stop sign and rig a hook for it that will grab onto the upper trim and hang down, hitting me in the face if I don't remove it first.

You're quite welcome...I was actually thinking more of your son when I wrote that, BTW.
And I was thinking of both of you when I wrote that comment about ROPS/seatbelt usage.

So...took a tour of the neighborhood yet?

 

[JDFANATIC]

killerb,

Very nice! Welcome to the fold!

 

[Killer_B]

So...took a tour of the neighborhood yet?

Funny you should ask. One of my side jobs is mowing the side of the road for our association. It's a .5 mile long dead end private road. It often gives me a chance to stop and chat. Somehow I ended up finishing on the far end and used the C range to get back. Man does this tractor fly! I had it up to (I think) 15 MPH. My last tractor would do about 10 MPH. This is a small difference in a car, but quite a difference on a tractor!

 

[McRancher]

That's a nice tractor.

I am going to paint a sign for my garage too. I haven't forgotten to put the ROPS down yet, but it's just a matter of time.

 

[JasonMac]

The only thing else I would recommend is to get the "Bolt On Reversable Cutting Edge" for your bucket. Since you are in Michigan I'm sure you'll be using it for the snow more than you think. I would rather wear down a designated blade than wear down the lip of the bucket. Worth every penny, espcially on concrete.

 

[Killer_B]

That's a nice tractor.

I am going to paint a sign for my garage too. I haven't forgotten to put the ROPS down yet, but it's just a matter of time.

Did you find that your ROPS pins were hard to get in and out at first? I needed a hammer to get then in, then a hammer and a punch to get them out. What I did to remedy the problem is to use a drill bit that was much smaller than the holes. I extend the ROPS and lined everything up so the pins were ready to go in. Then I "reamed" the holes by running the bit back and forth and round and round. I then did the same thing in the lowered position. It took only the paint off the inside of the holes, but that was enough. Now the pins slide in and out without the need for a hammer.

As much as I will be putting this thing up and down, I need it to work smoothly.

 

[orlo]

Killer_B:

Congratulations. Your going to love it. I loved my 3320 that I just traded for a 3720 cab.

Couple of things.

The 72" MMM is beefy but you CAN bang it up and it hangs low. It's easy to bottom it on stuff if you are doing loader work and tractor stuff. I'm in the process of getting an 84" RFM since I'm tired of mounting/dismounting the deck to do 'tractor stuff' (or living with beating very expensive deck up). Putting it on and off once a season or infrequently isn't bad, but doing it every week or so can be a pain. Also if you take it off you need to check the level when you put it back on.

It'll give you an absolutely beautiful cut with blade speeds over 18,000fpm but it's very, very sensitive to being level (side to side). If you hit anything with it check the level to make sure it didn't go out.

Look out for dropping pins on the gauge wheels. I just lost one of mine and didn't notice until I did a complete lap and noticed the 'gouge' the fallen wheel (Now turned sideways) had left in the lawn. :O).

Also, you can lift and curl at once, no problem. The 3000 series has plenty of flow to do that. It just takes a little finesse with the Dual SCV valve (Which I don't have very well btw) but it can be done. I'm at the point where I can Curl up and lower the loader at the same time but I'm too 'choppy' trying to level the bucket while lifting.

If you have the automotive cruise control (an upgrade over the standard one) I'd recommend one of the first things you do is set the 'slow' and 'fast' motion match settings. Use the slowest one while mowing. If you let completely off the hydro in the fast setting while mowing fast you can and will skid.

Lastly, your going to LOVE it.

 

[RollTideRam]

I got my 3320 on Saturday also. My rops pins are just like yours. I'll try to free them up today. I did not play very long Saturday, is was still over 100. I did find I could lift a rear tire with the loader just like on the smaller 2520. I even have these tires filled. JC

 

[VABlue]

Nice purchase and pics! I wish I had room for a larger tractor, but I'll have to deal with the little 2305 for now... Have fun with it!

 

[Killer_B]

Killer_B:

Also if you take it off you need to check the level when you put it back on.

It'll give you an absolutely beautiful cut with blade speeds over 18,000fpm but it's very, very sensitive to being level (side to side). If you hit anything with it check the level to make sure it didn't go out.

If you have the automotive cruise control (an upgrade over the standard one) I'd recommend one of the first things you do is set the 'slow' and 'fast' motion match settings. Use the slowest one while mowing. If you let completely off the hydro in the fast setting while mowing fast you can and will skid.

Lastly, your going to LOVE it.

Orlo,

Thanks for the info. Can you give me a quick lesson on how to level the deck side to side? I did read the manual, but it was hard to follow. It will probably make more sense when I actually do it.

I do have the auto cruise and did set the motion match to 4 on the low and 6 on the high. The difference is definitely noticeable. BTW: Although the dealer installed the switches and wires, he did not do the "reprogramming." I just followed the manual and did it no problem.

 

[Killer_B]

I got my 3320 on Saturday also. JC

Pics?

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

Nice tractor! Congratulations! I am pretty sure that model will be my next tractor also...

 

[orlo]

Killer_B:

The manual covers side to side and front/rear leveling but here is a quick list of what you do for side to side.

The biggest pain is you need to measure the 'blades' when they are sticking straight out to the sides. The deck has no alignment guides (Would make it too easy to level - I may weld some on sometime).

First, turn off the tractor, disengage the front PTO - you'll be turning the blades.

Drop the deck to your cutting height onto the stops - Make sure the wheels aren't touching.

Measure the blades from the floor (A level floor of course) when they are straight out - you'll probably need to turn the blades between measuring sides. If they are more than 1/8" off (or even less) you should adjust them. To adjust them
look at the back of the deck, you'll see two (one on each side) yokes with rings in them. You can either lower the high side or raise the low side but if you raise the low side make sure that when it's at full raise it doesn't hit the stops or anything else. To lower a side pull out the ring and clevis pin, and loosen the turnbuckle. Unless it's way off I always go just 1/2 a turn then put it back and check the blades again.

That's it in a nutshell. I hardly ever have to adjust the front to rear level but if that's more than a small amount off (The front should be level to a tad lower, never higher than the rear) you should adjust it. Take off the front mount and do the same with the turnbuckles on front. Tightening them will raise the front of the deck, loosening them will lower it.

Note, you'll be on your back and reaching doing this. Probably cursing a few times also...

To measure the blades on the non-discharge side is a pain unless you get a little gage that JD sells for less than $10. It's still a pain but a little easier after you do that.

You could probably get close to level by measuring the distance of like adjusted anti-scalp wheels in the rear and front but I've never tried this and it would be as accurate as measuring the blades.

Also, on the Height adjustment knob I think 1 rotation (6 clicks) is 1/2 and inch in height) having no marks here is a little bit of a pain.

 

[Killer_B]

Thanks a ton Orlo! I get it now.