40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice

[Pugemasta]

Thanks for the tips on back blades. Perhaps it's premature, but got excited browsing the land pride catalog

Egon, looks like a terrific resource. I will definitely be reading this. Might take a while :laughing:

Thanks for reminding me Eric's post. I will probably ask again about modifications before I buy.

Jim, thanks for the advice! I wasn't aware of TNT, I thought I would just need 3 remotes. Thanks for educating me.

I'm starting to think I should go with a traditional tractor as ground engaging activities will be one of it's main tasks. It was fun to learn about AC and PT, but I don't think they will be a good fit. Going to call the PT manufacturer next week just to be sure.

What are your opinions on the Mahindra 3550? Seems like a good option considering my budget, maybe a bit expensive. How would the Branson 5220 compare?

Would the added weight of the Mahindra help or hurt with slopes and traction? Mostly thinking about the steeper sections of the road in winter.

 

[jeff9366]

The Indian built Mahindra's are known for weight. Mechanical controls and finish perhaps compete with tractors of fifteen years ago. Reliability average. Factory support below average.

MtnViewRanch likes his Mahindras.

I have never shopped Mahindra. This is my opinion from reading Mahindra-Mahindra owner comments.

I would want a stable, experienced Mahindra dealer close.



For your fairly extreme slopes I would rank tractor setup ahead of tractor brand.

1. Rear wheel spread, especially with R4/industrial rims/tires, which are not always adjustable. Factory spread capability preferred over aftermarket wheel spacers.

2. 4-WD

3. Wheel/tire ballast.

4. Tire selection.

5. Lower C of G through smaller diameter wheels and tires.

MORE: best tractor for steep hills site:www.tractorbynet.com - Google Search


Only above average dealers will be willing to deal with #5, lowered C of G.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the tips on back blades. Perhaps it's premature, but got excited browsing the land pride catalog

Egon, looks like a terrific resource. I will definitely be reading this. Might take a while :laughing:

Thanks for reminding me Eric's post. I will probably ask again about modifications before I buy.

Jim, thanks for the advice! I wasn't aware of TNT, I thought I would just need 3 remotes. Thanks for educating me.

I'm starting to think I should go with a traditional tractor as ground engaging activities will be one of it's main tasks. It was fun to learn about AC and PT, but I don't think they will be a good fit. Going to call the PT manufacturer next week just to be sure.

What are your opinions on the Mahindra 3550? Seems like a good option considering my budget, maybe a bit expensive. How would the Branson 5220 compare?

Would the added weight of the Mahindra help or hurt with slopes and traction? Mostly thinking about the steeper sections of the road in winter.

As far as a Mahindra 3550, with your hills I would not own one with HST. I have driven a 3550 HST to and from my house, the hills killed it. It would not go up one of the public paved roads in mid range, I had to drop down to low range. Just that one thing turned me against the 3550 HST machines. Now I'm sure that the power shuttles would have no issues. The machine is so heavy (a good thing) that it really should have a 60hp power plant IMO, not a 49hp.

Other than that, I liked the tractor over all.

As far as Jeff mentioning that I like my 2 Mahindra tractors, he is correct, I do. But they are going on 11 and 14 years old now. So not really comparable to todays machines.

While the 32hp 3215HST unit is to small for your main use, it is a great little clean up machine. Nothing special about it though, just an average machine in my line of thinking. As far as my 75hp 7520 4x4 tractor, it is a GREAT tractor, it would be nicer with a 16x16 trans though instead of the 12x12 that it has. To this day I would happily put it up against any other 75hp tractor out there. As far as fit and finish, the smaller unit is not all that good, again just average. My 7520 4x4 has an excellent fit and finish and again, would put it up against any others.

Things have changed though, so you really need to compare newer models to newer models and economy models to economy models as well as deluxe models to deluxe models to get a more realistic and equal comparison.

Another thing to keep in mind, you want every single aux remote (SCVs) that you can get and you still will not have enough. You need a minimum of 4 for the rear if not maybe even 5 and 3 for the front. The additional remotes will most likely need to be 3rd party additions.

More things to think about.

 

[Pugemasta]

Thanks Brian, good info on Mahindras, I knew very little about them. Glad you enjoy yours, but sounds like those in my size are best avoided. Thanks!

Thoughts on the MF 2706e? Concerned by the following post though:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...57960-cb85-backhoe-quick-attach-question.html

No top and tilt or cat 2 implements w/ backhoe mount? Sounds like I need TNT for proper control of the back blade, so that would be a deal breaker. Most implements I've seen are cat 1 or 2, but would I want the option of cat 2 for the future? Would I run into the same issue with a mx5200 or Branson 5220?

Thanks again for all the help, I'm learning a ton and would have missed more than a few details without your advice. I think we're zeroing in on some good options. I have this Friday afternoon off of work, I'll likely spend that time at my local dealers checking them out in person.

 

[MossRoad]

..... I'll likely spend that time at my local dealers checking them out in person.

Test operate as many as you can. When I was tractor shopping back in 2001, I was kinda shocked that after I spent a LOT of time getting it narrowed down to a Deere, Kubota, New Holland, Cub Cadet and Power Trac model, I didn't fit on the Deere I had selected. :shocked: My knees hit the steering wheel. The Kubota was OK, but again, the operator's station was cramped. The New Holland was a very good fit for me. Ergonomically, it was the best of all of them. I could not find a Cub Cadet dealer that had the model I was looking for, so that was out. The PT425 fit like a glove, as you sit in it, not on it. The NH was still a bit more comfortable, but my tasks list favored the PT.

So get out there and drive em around the parking lot. See if you can get some demos with equipment attached. Make sure your are comfortable in the operator's station. Imaging yourself operating that thing for 6-8 hour stretches. Is the joystick in a comfortable place? Can you enter and exit the operator's station from either side? Are there steps and hand-holds in good locations? Do your hands fall naturally on the controls or do you have to reach for them? Stuff like that. You know the drill.

 

[ericm979]

I got TNT as a dealer installed extra on my Branson. Or you could buy what everyone here considers an excellent TNT setup from Brian. Kubota's the only brand I know of that has TNT as an option, but some people have had problems with the L60 TNT. I didn't have TNT on my old tractor. It's so useful, especially when you have a blade on the back.

If you're not running a PTO blower (or other PTO implement) I don't see why you need a 52hp machine. My 3725 weighs about the same as a 5220 and when pulling a loaded box blade it's limited by traction, even with loaded rear tires. It'll drive up 15% grades in middle range with ease. I use low range for the 30% section of one of my roads, especially when I have a 1000 lb chipper on the back. The only time I wish I had more power is when chipping larger material.

 

[LouNY]

I may be out of touch here but al this fan fare of these TNT kits;
They may be worthwhile with box blades or York rakes, but on the larger back blades with hydraulic tilt angle and offset
I fail to see where they have much use.
Yes, a hydraulic top link is very nice.

Also I noted one post concerning the use of cat 2 implements and smaller tractors.
Depending on the tractor and it's configuration that can be quite difficult.
A larger tractor with cat 2 arms can be bushed down to cat 1, a cat 1 tractor can't be bushed up to cat 2.
Some of the tractors near the switching point will have convertible lift arms,
the lift arms can be disconnected from the tractor and turned end for end the lift arms actually have one end cat 1 and the other cat 2.
The cat 1 is normally the implement end, however the tractor end has a cat 2 ball on it with the tractor pin being a cat 1 with a bushing on it.
When the cat 2 end is needed for the implement the lift arm is removed, turned around and the 1 to 2 bushing removed for the implement and the cat 1 end is attached to the tractor pin.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I may be out of touch here but al this fan fare of these TNT kits;
They may be worthwhile with box blades or York rakes, but on the larger back blades with hydraulic tilt angle and offset
I fail to see where they have much use.
Yes, a hydraulic top link is very nice.

Also I noted one post concerning the use of cat 2 implements and smaller tractors.
Depending on the tractor and it's configuration that can be quite difficult.
A larger tractor with cat 2 arms can be bushed down to cat 1, a cat 1 tractor can't be bushed up to cat 2.
Some of the tractors near the switching point will have convertible lift arms,
the lift arms can be disconnected from the tractor and turned end for end the lift arms actually have one end cat 1 and the other cat 2.
The cat 1 is normally the implement end, however the tractor end has a cat 2 ball on it with the tractor pin being a cat 1 with a bushing on it.
When the cat 2 end is needed for the implement the lift arm is removed, turned around and the 1 to 2 bushing removed for the implement and the cat 1 end is attached to the tractor pin.

You are absolutely correct, an all hydraulic actuated rear blade only benefits from the hydraulic top link of a T&T set. But if you have ANY other implement that you can make use of side tilt, that tilt on the rear blade is worthless. If it's on the tractor, you have it for all implements, not just 1.

I have no idea about what implements you have, but I have 5 different types of grading implements, I use my side tilt with 4 of them. That tilt cylinder on the rear blade would not do me much good with the other implements, thus T&T.

 

[Pugemasta]

Don't want to use low the whole way up my 1 mile steep driveway. And I want the option of a snowblower. In a few years once land is prepared, we may find a need for new implements as well, so I think it makes sense. We'll see how they price out, I may consider less hp, but likely not. Would not like to find myself in a position wishing I had bought more hp, like you describe chipping wood. Thanks for your point of view and the Branson specific advice!

Not planning to buy both a TNT and back blade w/hydraulics. I also plan on buying a box blade, and it sounds like a TNT would save me a lot of trouble. Open to other's opinions though.

Brian, what 5 grading implements do you use? I am planning on starting with a good back blade and box blade and seeing how it goes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Don't want to use low the whole way up my 1 mile steep driveway. And I want the option of a snowblower. In a few years once land is prepared, we may find a need for new implements as well, so I think it makes sense. We'll see how they price out, I may consider less hp, but likely not. Would not like to find myself in a position wishing I had bought more hp, like you describe chipping wood. Thanks for your point of view and the Branson specific advice!

Not planning to buy both a TNT and back blade w/hydraulics. I also plan on buying a box blade, and it sounds like a TNT would save me a lot of trouble. Open to other's opinions though.

Brian, what 5 grading implements do you use? I am planning on starting with a good back blade and box blade and seeing how it goes.

A land plane grading scraper(LPGS), 7'wide, 8' long weighing 1400lbs. This is my #1 go to implement for general road maintenance. I use the top link to make fine adjustments with this Implement. I maintain about 2 3/8 miles of road and fence line.

A Land Pride RBT45108. 9' wide, weighs about 1200lbs. Great for road ditch and crown maintenance although I have only had to re-crown twice in the last 18 years. Works well for making new trails although I have a dozer with 6 way blade intended for that.

A roll over box blade. (ROBB) 81" wide and weighs 985lbs, works well for moving dirt from point A to point B and is able to sink rippers in the ground over 10" deep.

A landscape rake. 8' wide, currently getting rebuilt to have hydraulic angle and offset. When completed it will be up to the quality that I need that was not available 13 years ago. Should end up weighing around 800lbs when completed.

An 8' rotary harrow for fence lines. Technically not really a grading implement though.