That is the best "kludge to make it work" anyone has suggested yet BUT a guy with a new tractor and a new cutter should not be having to screw with that kind of nonsense. Make the seller of the cutter comply with the Cat2 specs which probably means take the thing back. Make them solve the compatibility issue. Probably a different model cutter. Anyway it is their error.Buy a cat 2 bolt on pin, put it on one side. Take the stabilizer off on that side and kick the arm onto the pin and hook the othe side up with the through pin. Adjust the stableizers to center the mower. All my cat 2 farm implements used bolt on pins and in 25 years using 70 hp tractors I never broke one.
I just looked my 4707 and I found that when the threads are visible, it does not slide out very much. When the threads are not visible, there is a lot more movement. Try turning the turnbuckle all the way in the other direction so you cannot see any of the threads.I am having issues hooking up a brush cutter I purchased, I can't seem to get the lower arms narrow enough to fit into the slots on the attachment. This is my first time hooking anything up so I figure I must be missing something. I extended the sway bar threads as far as they will go, is there another adjustment point I'm ignoring?
Thanks
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Would that not actually spread the bars wider? My understanding of geometry seems to contradict what you are saying...I just looked my 4707 and I found that when the threads are visible, it does not slide out very much. When the threads are not visible, there is a lot more movement. Try turning the turnbuckle all the way in the other direction so you cannot see any of the threads.
Congrats Eddie I know you’ve been waiting patiently. They look to be a very stout built utility tractor. So I’m curious what the minimum and maximum arm end widths are when using both stabilizer bars?I just looked my 4707 and I found that when the threads are visible, it does not slide out very much. When the threads are not visible, there is a lot more movement. Try turning the turnbuckle all the way in the other direction so you cannot see any of the threads.

These stabilizers are different. not made that way.Both ends of the stabilizer should have the same amount of threads showing,
Eddie, if you measure the difference with it pinned I think you would see that the ends will be closer with all the threads showing. With it not pinned you would have more range of motion with the threads all the way in. At least that is what I am seeing in the pictures.I understand that it doesnt make sense. I havent figured it out in a way that makes sense. I'm 100 persent positive that with the threads in, there is more travel in the arms to go closer together. I just cant explain why.
But is that with the pin in or out?I'm 100 persent positive that with the threads in, there is more travel in the arms to go closer together. I just cant explain why.
We all understand the relevance of that, BUT it does not solve the issue presented....Pins are out. It will only slide out farther with the pin out. You cannot turn it with the pin in.
I think this would work:We all understand the relevance of that, BUT it does not solve the issue presented....
I think I would drill a new hole in the part that attaches to the tractor 90 degrees from the other hole. Maybe split the difference from the end. That would give more flexibility.