861 diesel problems

[Soundguy]

i used a pusher setup to put a crank pulley on one time. without an air gun i'd have never got it.

 

[MitchellB]

This is the way I had it rigged from the bottom of the engine using a trailer hitch to span the gap.

This is the top of the engine with my homemade cap on the other end of the rod to pull with

And this is my cursed tractor taking it's hatred out on me again just when I think I'm almost over the toughest part.

To their credit Davis Tractor is sending me another sleeve out in the mail today.

 

[TomSeller]

I am not sure I understand why the plug is smaller than the liner on reinsertion.

 

[MitchellB]

I am not sure I understand why the plug is smaller than the liner on reinsertion.

I may have had it sitting ajar when I took the pic, but the plug is a pretty tight fit from the bottom, but the top of the sleeves has a lip that is wider than the bore of the engine when pulling in the new sleeves.

 

[TomSeller]

I may have had it sitting ajar when I took the pic, but the plug is a pretty tight fit from the bottom, but the top of the sleeves has a lip that is wider than the bore of the engine when pulling in the new sleeves.

So it is the same plug as you used for the removal? It certainly doesn't need to fit in the cylinder hole this time so it can be bigger to cap the complete liner lip. It looks to me from the edge of the lip towards the camera that the plug slipped inside the liner and deformed it, causing the fracture.

 

[MitchellB]

So it is the same plug as you used for the removal? It certainly doesn't need to fit in the cylinder hole this time so it can be bigger to cap the complete liner lip. It looks to me from the edge of the lip towards the camera that the plug slipped inside the liner and deformed it, causing the fracture.

Yea, same plug. The sleeves appear to be a hair below the surface of the block, so I used the same plug to be sure to seat the sleeves properly.

#4 sleeve (first one I put back in) went about half way before I had to use my rod setup to finish pulling it in.


#3 sleeve went all the way in using a hammer, block of wood and the aluminum cap. I did not need the puller setup on that one.


#2 sleeve when within 2" or so before I had to finish pulling in with my threaded rod.


#1 did not make it half way before it cracked open.

 

[Soundguy]

as someone else mentioned. check that cap to see if it has not deformed out of round or it will keep breaking liners..

 

[kf4uda]

You might consider drilling a hole in a piece of wood and sandwich it between the liner and your cap. Once you are down flush then remove the wood and pull with your cap if the liner is recessed....Just a thought

 

[MitchellB]

You might consider drilling a hole in a piece of wood and sandwich it between the liner and your cap. Once you are down flush then remove the wood and pull with your cap if the liner is recessed....Just a thought

That sounds like a good simple plan. I'll try that. I have more scrap wood laying around than metal. My replacement liner is supposed to arrive this afternoon as is grandson#4 after school.


I finished cleaning the pistons yesterday and got the new 5 ring sets installed on them. I move my (un-lighted) oil pressure gauge to the center of the dash and moved the fuel gauge to the right. The new temp gauge I put in the left where the amp gauge was removed. I found a bulb for the tach and got it shining now. I looked for an illuminated oil pressure gauge online, but everything I found did not have a light in them for some reason. ????? It was easier to mess with these gauges with the sheet metal off.


I did find a light fixture online that goes in the center of the dash below the center gauge in that 1 1/8" hole that is plugged: Ford Instrument Panel Light Assembly for Ford 8N,NAA,Jubilee,600,700,800,900 (8NN14662A)

but lordy they want $30 for a covered light fixture and some places more than that. Guess I'll keep the plug for a while longer.


How difficult is it to replace the seal around the center shaft in the transmission? Looks like I may have some leakage there, but I don't what to pull the tranny if I have to go in from the back side. Special tool needed?

 

[Soundguy]

the input shaft seal used to be about 3$ many people pull it to use the nose as a clutch allign tool anyway.. don't have to pull the trans to repalce the seal.. just the input shaft.

 

[MitchellB]

I think that transmission seal may be in my gasket kit I opened today.???? Looks like it might fit.

I got the new liner in and installed my Crankshaft and main bearings. I broke the blue rope? seal trying to force it in the V grooves however and just ordered a new set. I can't more forward for backing up. I guess I'll have to sand the new ones to fit before pushing them in.

Also got my pistons (with new rings) and new bearings installed and torqued. I wasn't sure about reusing the sheet metal lock nuts atop the piston rod bearing cap nut, but I put them back on and snugged them down. I must say, that the crank is pretty tight to turn by hand now. Gonna be a tight one when it is time to crank this baby up for the first time.

 

[kf4uda]

According to my shop manual, those nuts are called a pal nut. It says to "install two new Pal nuts on the connecting rod and tighten them to 3-3 1/2 ft. Lbs. torque." I don't know about you but my torque wrench don't dial that low. The bearing cap nuts torque to 45-50 ft. Lbs.

You are going to have that old oil burner going in no time. I wish my 861 was diesel or at least think I do. I have never been around one so not positive about that.

 

[MitchellB]

According to my shop manual, those nuts are called a pal nut. It says to "install two new Pal nuts on the connecting rod and tighten them to 3-3 1/2 ft. Lbs. torque." I don't know about you but my torque wrench don't dial that low. The bearing cap nuts torque to 45-50 ft. Lbs.

You are going to have that old oil burner going in no time. I wish my 861 was diesel or at least think I do. I have never been around one so not positive about that.

Thanks. I torqued the rod bearings to 50 and the mains to 100. I got that online. The pal nuts I guess-ta-mated. Got them snug and and about a 1/2 turn more.

I took the oil pump apart, cleaned it today and reassembed it with new gaskets. I did smear some grease around the gears and plunger to hopefully help it prime at start up time. The hex shaft was worn on the end so, I got a new one on order for that.

When I drop in the geared timing shaft/oil pump shaft down to the cam gear, How do I know when it is in the right gear tooth on the cam to be in proper time for the fuel pump?

I thought I wanted a diesel tractor too, but I'm worried about this one. Gonna take several hours in the saddle before I feel comfortable trusting this Red Tiger.

But first I still got to get it back together, but at least I should have a idea what makes it tick by then.

 

[Soundguy]

sounds awesome...

 

[MitchellB]

I was cleaning the transmission housing inside around the clutch, release bearing and input shaft before I disassemble it and noticed a couple things I'm not sure about.

Is it normal for the transmission input shaft to wobble on the end/tip that goes to the engine. The tip on my will move 1/4-3/8" around in all directions? I figured it would be a pretty solid shaft until I began to clean with it. ??????????

Does anyone know how stiff the coiled clutch spring (5 speed) around the clutch shaft should be? While it does have the spring strength to raise the peddle all the way up and the release bearing all the way to the rear on the input shaft, I can reach in, grab the releases bearing and move it forward with very little spring resistance for an inch or less. If the spring is weak, that may have caused my clutch screws to wear like they did, but I'm not sure if this tension is normal or not.

Thanks.

 

[MitchellB]

After taking the transmission input shaft housing off and the clutch peddle shaft out I ended up replacing 2 seals in the two input shafts. One large one in the input shaft housing and another smaller one for the smaller/longer shaft inside the shaft. Counting the new paper gasket for the housing, those 2 little seals cost me $45 at the New Holland dealer near me. Ouch. But my shaft wobble is all but very little now. The clutch spring, they did not have a replacement for that I could compare it to, so I re-installed the old one. However to my surprise, after I clean everything of gunk, crud and grease the new TOB and peddle release much stronger than before with no slack to press against the clutch arms. After some checking online, I've decided to pull my rear main bearing retaining block back off. The new V-groove seals are not expanding after 2 days of soaking in oil. Not one of Ford's better ideas. I intend to clean them up and RTV the block & seals back in place tomorrow. I don't need a leak here. Then I can put my oil pan back on.

 

[Soundguy]

it will still be a miracle if it is completely drip free.. unfortunately.

 

[MitchellB]

Yea, I guess they are kinda like the old Harley's. If it don't have a puddle of oil under it, something is wrong. I did discover in my Google searches that I should install a cotter pin in the weep hole in the bottom of that clutch/transmission housing that I cleaned out. Ford's idea was that the little cotter pin rattling around in the hole prevents it from stopping up so the oil will be able to drip out. So, Ford expected these tractors to leak! Park accordingly. My 8N leaks too but at the governor and the at PTO shaft when the cap is off.

 

[MitchellB]

I'm thinking about flushing out the transmission/hydraulics with some clean diesel fuel before I put the engine back to the housing and before I refilling with new 80/90. Would diesel fuel harm any of the seals inside the case? Is this a bad idea?

 

[Soundguy]

I'm thinking about flushing out the transmission/hydraulics with some clean diesel fuel before I put the engine back to the housing and before I refilling with new 80/90. Would diesel fuel harm any of the seals inside the case? Is this a bad idea?

i flush mine with diesel, atf and alcohol.

remember.. hyds and tranny are seperate sumps. 80/90 is fine for the trans. but hyds needs UTF fluid.

and ditto on the dangle pin.