Add CHAIN GUARDS To Rotary Cutter

[3RRL]

I am making them for the front and rear of the cutter. You guys are great with the comments. Since I don't have anything on it right now, I didn't know what is the "preferred" method. I got a good suggestion from Larry too. He suggested using a length of chain instead of a solid rod in the bottom rungs. That's why I asked, because I thought a solid rod might ... probably would get bent lickety split.

I'm thinking then of using a length of chain like that, but have it run one or two links up from from the bottom link. Like FWJ pointed out, I don't want to trap an object and keep smashing it underneath either. I want to have it escape, but effectively reduce it's velocity. I know know you can't prevent everything, but at least REDUCE the velocity somewhat.

What do the store bought ones look like? Do they have something tying all the hanging chain lengths together?
I like the idea of trying it with all the lengths just dangling. Then add something like discussed above at a later time if needed.
How does that sound?

 

[3RRL]

I've proceeded to cut the chain to lengths now.
I got a 42" set of bolt cutters at Harbor Freight for $30 bucks. I needed one anyway. I cut the chain like butter. I bought the grade 30 chain from Grainer in a 90 foot length for general purpose about 2 years ago.

Grainger Chain

There was no sign of wear or dents on the jaws after cutting about 50 lengths so far....nothing. I was impressed!
I cut the links so one end was longer than the other. I will use those "half links" to weld onto the front and rear brackets, with the 6-½" lengths dangling from them.

 

[Jimmyb33]

Rob,
This is my Servis-Rhino 5' mower. The chains are attatched to a bent bar that is bolted to the mower frame every 6" - 8". The chains are free to move. I hope this helps.

jb

 

[psj12]

If you wanted five links hanging you could have cut them eleven links long and then hung two pieces from the center link.

 

[Soundguy]

I wouldn't do the rod... That would make the whole shebang move like a curtain... you can always weld a length of chain across the bottom if needed.. etc..

Also.. what about using a piece of angle iron.. flat side to the mower.. and the 90' side ( straight out ) to hang the chain from it's end. My howse has bolt holes already in the frame to make this sort of thing easier.. I'm guessing yuors may
' as well?

Post pics.

Soundguy

I'm thinking of adding chain guards to my rotary cutter for safety. In looking on the Internet, I found some that are made for my 6' Howse. About the best price I found for both front and rear guards was $150, not bad, but shipping was another $125.

Several years ago I bought some 5/16" chain to stretch across my road and I have about 50' of it left doing nothing. I also have a bunch of scrap steel and angle iron in my shop. I figure I could make the guards for nothing except my own time.

I know I'll have to space it away from the spinning cutter blades, about 4" out, so I don't chop them off when they get pushed back towards the blades.
Total length for each segment of chain will be about 6-½". I figure to space them about 1-½" apart or so.

- Maybe run a rod through the bottom rungs?
- Or should I leave them dangling free to keep from snagging brush?

Here's what I came up with so far...it's a side view sketch.
What do you think? Any suggestions?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I wouldn't do the rod... That would make the whole shebang move like a curtain... you can always weld a length of chain across the bottom if needed.. etc..

Also.. what about using a piece of angle iron.. flat side to the mower.. and the 90' side ( straight out ) to hang the chain from it's end. My howse has bolt holes already in the frame to make this sort of thing easier.. I'm guessing yuors may
' as well?

Post pics.

Soundguy

Agreed. The chains need to be independent of each other or they will most likely snag everything they run over.

 

[schmism]

use your half links the other way... lay them flat on whatever your going to weld... makes it much easyer to weld them up as opposed to welding up the "points" to a surface.

such as

 

[3RRL]

Great, more good ideas and thanks Jimmy, for showing me that photo of your Rhino chain guard. That gives me a good visual of what to do.
So the consensus is to leave the chain as separate dangling strands, without connecting them at the bottom. I see that Rhino guard is like that too.
Another question, how far apart should I place them? I see schmism has his (appears to be) about 2" center to center in his sketch. I would like to do that too.

 

[Jimmyb33]

Glad I could help. It's too dark now but I'll try to remember to take a few measurements in the morning and send them along.

 

[DavesTractor]

I've built quite a few sets in the past. You don't need to cut the chain. Use the metal angle iron as suggested to get away from the blades. Start at one end by welding a link on sideways, then if you want 5 hanging, weld the 11th link next to it sideways, then the 22nd link next to it sideways. etc. You are making little loops. Each sideways welded link has a chain hanging off each end. I wish I had a picture. It takes 50 feet or so of chain to make a front and rear set. I think we sell the sets (factory made) for around $200. Seems very expensive, until your price chain, angle iron and a little time. Of course in your case, you have the chain, and probably have the iron.

The factory sets are neat, with elongated slots for the individual chains to slide up into, then a rod to hold them in place. Too much work for the average backyard shop.

Great, more good ideas and thanks Jimmy, for showing me that photo of your Rhino chain guard. That gives me a good visual of what to do.
So the consensus is to leave the chain as separate dangling strands, without connecting them at the bottom. I see that Rhino guard is like that too.
Another question, how far apart should I place them? I see schmism has his (appears to be) about 2" center to center in his sketch. I would like to do that too.