Add CHAIN GUARDS To Rotary Cutter

[3RRL]

I've built quite a few sets in the past. You don't need to cut the chain. Use the metal angle iron as suggested to get away from the blades. Start at one end by welding a link on sideways, then if you want 5 hanging, weld the 11th link next to it sideways, then the 22nd link next to it sideways. etc. You are making little loops. Each sideways welded link has a chain hanging off each end. I wish I had a picture. It takes 50 feet or so of chain to make a front and rear set. I think we sell the sets (factory made) for around $200. Seems very expensive, until your price chain, angle iron and a little time. Of course in your case, you have the chain, and probably have the iron.

The factory sets are neat, with elongated slots for the individual chains to slide up into, then a rod to hold them in place. Too much work for the average backyard shop.

Dang Dave,
I wish you posted this earlier. That is a great idea. It's too late for me now having cut all those segments already. I could have saved a lot of time and chain links. I would've used your method for sure.

 

[DavesTractor]

Dang Dave,
I wish you posted this earlier. That is a great idea. It's too late for me now having cut all those segments already. I could have saved a lot of time and chain links. I would've used your method for sure.

Well, at least you got the bolt cutters you always wanted!

 

[Willl]

Galvanized ?

That'll be fun. Snap, crackel, pop.

 

[Jimmyb33]

Rob,
I have a couple of measurements off my Rhino this morning. give or take on these... it was still kinda dark and wet when I was out there...

 

[3RRL]

Great sketch Jimmy, thank you. I was thinking of having them 2" apart? I'll lay them down before I tack them and see.
Thanks again.

Dave,
lol ... Yeah, a big set of bolt cutters like that always comes in handy. I'll get to tack welding the chain to the spacer bars tonight.

 

[DavesTractor]

Great sketch Jimmy, thank you. I was thinking of having them 2" apart? I'll lay them down before I tack them and see.
Thanks again.

Dave,
lol ... Yeah, a big set of bolt cutters like that always comes in handy. I'll get to tack welding the chain to the spacer bars tonight.

Close together is good, and the spacer bar will likely warp as you weld it, so keep that in mind.

 

[patrick_g]

I too urge you to not connect the dangling chains anywhere but at the top. You would regret it as it will tend to get tangled in debris.

I have had the long rods that were supposed to hold my chains in place come out in heavy brush and I still haven't found any of the chains, years later. I recommend welding the dangling chains onto a piece of angle or whatever and mounting the angle. The angle on mine was 1/4 inch thick and about 4x4 inches in three pieces welded together to follow the shape of the cutter in back.

Do not space the chains very far apart. They should basically be shoulder to shoulder touching each other or nearly so or you will too easily throw debris out from under the deck. This chain thing is not for cosmetic appearance but for preventing damage, injury and potential loss of life. I have launched chunks of down limbs 4 inches in diameter and nearly a foot long almost 100 ft when I operated without the chains. A BAD IDEA.

Pat

 

[diyDave]

I second the notion NOT to put anything through the bottom of the links. Doing so means you will risk catching a stump or vertical sapling or branch, and dragging it with you-or stalling out if its a big enough something.

 

[3RRL]

I agree with you guys as that was my concern in my first post. I'm going to leave them free dangling.

OK, so I found some ½" x 1" bar stock that was almost long enough for the front of the 72" cutter (60" bar) and another one exactly long enough for the rear (38"). On the front, I will have to add 2 side extensions with about 3 rows of links on each. But I will have to wait until I get to camp so I know exactly how to angle it back to the cutter frame.
Another thing is I ran out of chain. I decided to put them a little closer together after all. I've got more chain at camp, and I can fit the chain bar to the cutter correctly up there.

Here's what I did tonight.
Got the front bar and chain all welded up.
The bar stayed relatively straight for all the welding I did.



A little closer view of how I welded the links to the bar.
This gives them freedom to move and absorb the shock better I think.

 

[3RRL]

Here is a picture of both front and rear chain bars.



And an even better photo of the attachment to the bar.



I will make spacers that suspend the chain bar away from the cutter body...out far enough where I won't be whacking them off. I can add the sides to the short front bar once I'm at camp and can see where the blade opening is. The opening does not go the full 72" width of the mower. The rear opening is only 36" wide, so that 38" bar is perfect already.

So far I like how they turned out. Especially considering it's cost me nothing so far and it is 100% better than what I had. As a matter of fact, I even got a new pair of giant bolt cutters in the deal.