Adding Hydraulic Side Links

[3RRL]

I needed them because I was not sure how it was going to turn out. Especially mounting...hard plumbing the double pilot operated check valves I bought from Surplus Center. I had machined some various nipple lengths in order to get the spacing correct for the hard plumbing. After trying it several times, I finally got the right combination and made a good plumbing job of it. I used pipe joint compound for the NPT fittings. The others were SAE and JIC fittings.

Here's what the cylinder looks like with the check valve mounted. It was a lot harder than I thought but came out just fine. One thing for sure, the Surplus Center DPOCV is a lot bigger than the CCM one on my top link cylinder.



Then I took the cylinder assembly and mounted it to the tractor. I had previously re-attached the top lift arms and lower drag links to be certain I had them in the correct position. The top lift arms are splined so you can set on the tractor at different positions. So I had to check the full movement of the arms to see if there would be any binding or interference. I also checked the to see where the full length and shortened length of the cylinder would position the lower drag arms.

Anyway, this is how the cylinder looks when in position.

 

[3RRL]

When considering how to plumb the tractor, I had decided earlier on that I would use the new 3 spool valve to control the top link and also the hydraulic rippers on my box blade. It will also give me one more set of remotes for whatever else I come up with? That meant making a new Quick dis-connect bracket and having all the hoses go there. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to install the new valve. We were planning on dove hunting and also going up to Sequoia to see the giant Redwoods. Another thing I had to do was trench some deep holes for the solar guy. They are for the solar trackers and had to be 4' x 4' x 5' deep!!.

So I hooked up the new side cylinders to the old valve that ran the rear remotes. In fact, it made good sense since it's levers were next to each other, left and right. So it was easy to tell which lever runs which. That way the 3pt system was in tact and ready to use. I also got some metric adapters (22mm x 1.5 pitch) to make the connections to the Chinese threads.



After getting everything screwed together and trying them out, I had to be certain none of the hose interfered with the 3pt system and that they had enough room and play regardless of what I hooked up...including the PTO pump for the backhoe.

So this is what that turned out like. No leaks and everything fits, works and is tucked away nicely. To my surprise, even the big check valves look decent.




Right after that, I hooked up the backhoe and dug those big holes. Next time up I'll tackle the 3 spool valve installation.

 

[JerryG]

Rob,
Good looking job. One point that I would like to make though is for you to keep an eye on the check valves the first time or two that you use your bush mower. The check valves might get into the PTO shaft as the mower moves around.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Nice Job Rob. You are one prolific tractor customizer! All you need is a producer and you'll be starring in Tractor Shop on Discovery.

It looks like despite the bulk of your tilt cylinders you actually eliminated an interference problem. On mine the D-handles on the left side link can interfere with the remote quick-connects.
My tractor came with a set of 4 matching male quick-connects for the remotes. I guess either yours did not or more of them are not readily available for use on other implements.

 

[JerryG]

Nice Job Rob. You are one prolific tractor customizer! All you need is a producer and you'll be starring in Tractor Shop on Discovery.

He has the most modified Kama in North America.

 

[3RRL]

Well, I sure am glad it turned out and also that you guys like the conversion. I have a tremendous amount of tilt available with the 2 cylinders. It became a small PITA trying to turn those turnbukles with the box blade under tension with a full load in it.

And you're right Brad, no interference with the QD's on the left side any more. I've smashed my knuckles many times adjusting that one. I took them out and will re-mount them on the right rear fender on a new bracket next time I go up. They will not interfere with anything there and be more easily reached for the attaching/disconnecting. Mine came with 4 females in the bracket and males for my implements. I have since purchased 4 more (8 total males now) and metric/SAE conversion fittings for all my implements. In any case, the new cylinders clear everything nicely in it's complete range of motion. (Where are the TV cameras when you need them?)

Jerry, thanks for warning about the check valves. I tried to take all implement mounting into consideration but I'll be sure to position the mower at extremes before I kick in the PTO and then keep an eye on the shaft. Also, thanks for the kind words and encouragement you have given me on all my projects. I'll post more on the valve installation next week.

 

[jinman]

Rob, you've done a very nice job with your tilt cylinders. The big DPOCVs look a lot less bulky on your Kama than I thought they would. How about control? can you feather the cylinders or are they pretty fast when you move them? Did you put orifices in the lines? Will you be adding a toplink cylinder next?

On my sidelink, I didn't leave enough space in the yoke on the bottom to clear the lift arm at all angles (raised and lowered). As a result, I broke the yoke off the end of the ram when my subsoiler dug in and went too deep. You yokes look close tolerance. I'd check to make sure they clear. You might have to modify the lift arms slightly like you did the upper links to clear the cylinder.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Jim,
Yeah, those cylinders are 3-½" diameter and are pretty big themselves. So the check valves are not as big looking next to them....but believe me, they are really big! I wanted to get cylinders with at least a 1-½" diameter rod to avoid bending them when bulldozing in reverse with the box blade. These came with 1-3/4" rods so it's definitely heavy duty. I had already bent one of the stock turnbuckles (Ø1" threaded rod).

I didn't need to restrict the lines at all since the cylinders are so big it allows for slow-controlled movement and feathering even with the check valves is very easy. They warned against "chattering" when the check valves are used and I noticed a slight amount at first but after the cylinders purged now they are a lot smoother.

I already have the CCM hydraulic top link with check valve and they could not send me the side link kit since last October...nearly a year ago. That's why I did this myself. I also wish the CCM top link I bought was a heavier cylinder. Some implements are Cat II and it strains. I'll probably switch it to a larger cylinder before long and use their check valve for it.

As far as clearance between the lower drag links and cylinder yoke, I was able to machine 45° angles and reduce the amount of engagement by nearly and inch, giving me the desired tilt angles and clearances (yoke vs arms). I checked for this on both the lower and upper arms so I wouldn't screw myself when I got up to the property and sit there with my thumb up my you know what....hahaha Also, the upper and lower lift arms are pretty much inline so when raised or lowered their relationship stays constant...no angling off sideways.

 

[3RRL]

I would highly recommend this mod to your tractor if not done so already along with the hydraulic top link. The capability to equalize, tilt, adjust easily is so much useful in many applications. It's all done with a great viewpoint from the tractor seat. The best part is grading for example, you can drag your box blade with infinite settings WHILE MOVING and instantly see the result of the grade of cut you are making.

There have been many, many times I've had to stop the tractor, park brake (maybe turn engine off), get off and adjust the turnbuckles on the side and top links. Then climb back on (maybe start) park brake off, put back in gear and drive ONLY to find that my adjustment was not adequate...then do it over again until I got the right setting to produce the desired finish or grade. Of course, that changes after moving forward a bit and guess what? So now this whole thing is done from the operators seat and adjustable for varying conditions.

Once I get the road smoothed constant, crowned and guttered the way I want, the check valves will earn their keep.

The cylinders I chose were expensive and I bought a lot of fittings. The hose from Agri Supply were 1/2" and relatively inexpensive. I ordered everything on line after getting the right lengths and figuring out what connections I needed. The check valves were expensive too, but worth it for me. The way I did it and the cylinder size/quality I chose ... it cost me around $650.

I figure if a guy wanted to do this project he could get smaller cylinders and less expensive ones...they will all work as long as they fit and allow enough clearance in the system. Without the check valves you can do it for about $400 including a 2 spool lever valve. This is for 2 cylinders...if you use one it is even less expensive by the reduced cost of the valve, cylinder, fittings and hoses.

Another way to consider doing it is to use your rear remotes as the power supply with quick disconnects to the cylinder(s) AND a check valve. Theoretically, a guy could use the QD's to set the desired tilt etc. and remove the QD's to run another implement. The check valve should hold the cylinder in that position until you move it. If you use only one cylinder and you have 2 rear remotes, you could leave it hooked up all the time and maybe not even need the check valve? then you can do it for the cost of 1 cylinder, fittings and 2 hoses...no spool or check valve.
Rob-

 

[deerhunterf350]

I believe Jinman was referring to the Lift Arms Twisting , or rotating Left or Right as the Tilt was adjusted.

See attached Diagram


Condition A shows both cylinders set equally, the Implement is level


Condition B shows the most extreme Tilt you can achieve , and the Lift Arms tilt along with the Implement.