dwellonrooftop
Member
I think I'll go with this on my 2720 (which does have power beyond) after Christmas. I might have to purchase a few parts at a time though.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520
- Thread starter jimgerken
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sughikim
New member
Hello
Jim were right he make a good job (perfect with good picture) I have the manuel book for John deere 2320 and for the Banjo it 17N.m or 12 lbs-ft
M8x50 cap it 23-30N.m or 17-22 lbs-ft
Jim show inch pound but it look the same
Banjo bolt 150 inch pounds (8 mm hex wrench).
M8x50 cap screw holding DSCV on, 17-22 foot pounds
Thank Jim Good job you shoud be a good teatcher. Ha! Ha!
Jim were right he make a good job (perfect with good picture) I have the manuel book for John deere 2320 and for the Banjo it 17N.m or 12 lbs-ft
M8x50 cap it 23-30N.m or 17-22 lbs-ft
Jim show inch pound but it look the same
Banjo bolt 150 inch pounds (8 mm hex wrench).
M8x50 cap screw holding DSCV on, 17-22 foot pounds
Thank Jim Good job you shoud be a good teatcher. Ha! Ha!
dwellonrooftop
Member
I did not notice any check valves, does it raise and lower fast or do you think it would be an improvement with them ???
MtnViewRanch
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The check valves that you are talking about do not slow the control of the cylinders. They lock the cylinder in place and were first developed for safety purposes. The use of them on top and tilt cylinders compensates for leaky control valves. If you want to better control a hydraulic cylinder, you need to slow the flow down in some manner either by feathering the control valve or by reducing the flow with a flow restrictor.
Sasquatch4100
Silver Member
I'm finally getting back to this project!
Phew! Man can the regular distractions of life get you off tract.
This is the valve I'm using. Surplus Center - 3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE
It's an open center, so I don't think I need to add the block off or "high pressure carry over" plug and just use the standard "out" or return to tank line.
Here's a pic of my valve. The bracket is fabbed, but not finished and painted. Have most of the fittings and hose to plumb it all up.
The positions pretty good. It's not in the way of anything including the rock shaft lever or your elbow, but allows easy access to the levers without doing contortions to manipulate them. First two levers are for the TNT and the third one will have quick disconnects for an aux cylinder of some kind.
Phew! Man can the regular distractions of life get you off tract.
This is the valve I'm using. Surplus Center - 3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE
It's an open center, so I don't think I need to add the block off or "high pressure carry over" plug and just use the standard "out" or return to tank line.
Here's a pic of my valve. The bracket is fabbed, but not finished and painted. Have most of the fittings and hose to plumb it all up.
The positions pretty good. It's not in the way of anything including the rock shaft lever or your elbow, but allows easy access to the levers without doing contortions to manipulate them. First two levers are for the TNT and the third one will have quick disconnects for an aux cylinder of some kind.
J_J
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It just makes good sense to use the PB. If it is there, use it.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=hydraulic&item=9-7867-B
If your valve is going between your FEL PB and the 3pt, you should use the PB from the remote for the 3pt, as the 3pt will pressurize the total hyd circuit. Route the OUT port of the remote to tank.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=hydraulic&item=9-7867-B
If your valve is going between your FEL PB and the 3pt, you should use the PB from the remote for the 3pt, as the 3pt will pressurize the total hyd circuit. Route the OUT port of the remote to tank.
Sasquatch4100
Silver Member
I agree, but I don't think there's a fitting on this model to return the flow to the tank. I haven't noticed anyone using more than one hose on the return side of the valves. Or I should say I haven't seen anyone using more than 2 hoses (ie input/output.
I know on this tractor the fluid has to flow throw the pb or any aux hydro valves and then through the scv for the FEL. I think it flows through the rockshaft valve first though. I'm going to plumb it using the open center port and see how it is (that's what's recommended). It shouldn't harm anything since the pressure won't dead head.
I am curious as I've heard some people on this thread state they've heard a noise after installing a spool valve or that their rock shaft stopped working.
I know on this tractor the fluid has to flow throw the pb or any aux hydro valves and then through the scv for the FEL. I think it flows through the rockshaft valve first though. I'm going to plumb it using the open center port and see how it is (that's what's recommended). It shouldn't harm anything since the pressure won't dead head.
I am curious as I've heard some people on this thread state they've heard a noise after installing a spool valve or that their rock shaft stopped working.
Sasquatch4100
Silver Member
Thanks Jim!
Your posts are a great inspiration for us who start these little projects on our little Deeres.
How you doing btw? I thought a while back you said you had Chemo.
