Another 3pt logging winch thread

[John_Mc]

To Gordon's great post, I will just add one point:

Starting small is a great way to learn as you go, but the "go slow" is also important. Don't assume that just because you are pulling a 6" pole that you don't have anything to worry about. Sometimes those will whip around more easily than that 24" oak you are pulling out.

 

[rumwrks]

Also here's an online manual for the 45A (I can't find it on the tajfun site.. and my winch didn't actually come with a hard copy.. but I'd already found the 35a manual at another site so no problem).

https://www.br-equipment.com/sites/default/files/downloads/_egv45a_egv55a_egv65a_egv85a_en_0.pdf

 

[WranglerX]

T

First thing when you get your winch mounted on the tractor and before using it under load:

Release the brake and hook the cable end to a tree or other anchor, and drive off down a slight slope until the drum has only 5 or 6 wraps left on it. Put the tractor in neutral and winch it back up the hill until the cable is rewound onto the drum under load. I do this at the start of every season, when I have not been using the winch in a while. I'll also do it from time to time during my prime logging season, especially if I've had some rewinds where there may not have been good tension on the line.

Along the same lines: any time you are winding in cable, make sure there is at least some load on it. If I don;t have a log on the end or if a self-releasing snatch block just released, I'll often step on the cable to create bit of drag. If I'm working with someone and need to wind in a length, I'll sometimes have them grab the end and lean against it as I wind it in. Anything to create at least a little tension while reeling in helps keep the windings on the drum in order.

I do this often with my recovery winch on my Jeep after a questionable operation(pull) ....

 

[Code54]

Thanks all.

I been winching for 35 years with Jeeps/Atvs/trucks but the logging winch is all new and a different animal so the info is super helpful. I will go slow for sure! Gussing no one throws a towel or blanket on the line for these since you can stay well to the side?

Do you all find chain chokers or cable chokers are better (and why). Need to order a few. the winch wont be in for 8-10 weeks so I have some time to get eveyrthing I want and learn a lot more.

 

[John_Mc]

Chains vs cable for chokers seems to be a matter of personal preference, but it's also a regional thing. Everyone I know around here uses chain chokers. In other parts of the country, everyone uses cable chokers.

I do find chains easier to store either on the tractor or in the barn.

 

[Jstpssng]

You could probably come up with a list of winching tips. What would be your number one tip?

Don't winch sideways. Always pull toward the direction the tractor is facing.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I like chain chokers because on a tractor winch you cannot pull the slider end of the chokers into the winch like you can on a skidder. If you want to get the hitch off the ground you would need a whole assortment of cable choker lengths. With chain chokers you can adjust the choker length in the keyhole slider. Also if your winch has a slotted rack you will need chain chokers to use it.

gg

 

[dougtrr2]

I haven't actually had occasion to see if this idea worked, but here it is anyway.

When I had my cable spooled completely out, I left 10 feet bare, then painted the next 10 feet red. I had been doing some long pulls. The thought is, if I see red, I better be close to hooking up. If it goes back to silver, I REALLY, need to be hooking up.

I did that, and have never had that much cable spooled out since.

Mentioned up thread earlier. Pull in a straight line. It is tempting to go at an angle when making multiple pulls, be it is really scary to see your tractor tipping as opposed to rearing straight up.

One minor issue I have with my Kubota BX. I generally pull at idle or just above. I don't want to slip the clutch any more than I have to. My little tractor doesn't like to be under load at idle for extended periods. From time to time I have to rev it up for a while to clear it out.


Doug in SW IA

 

[John_Mc]

The owners manual for my winch does not limit you to pulling for straight behind. It specifies a maximum of 30˚ from straight behind when pulling. I've found that to be a reasonable maximum angle, though I do try to set up for less than that - generally aiming for as straight behind the tractor as I can get when it's easy to do so.

In addition to the danger of rolling over from a hard side pull, it's also possible to bend the 3 Pt hitch lower arms. They are designed for a more or less straight pull. The further off that straight line you get, the more side load you are putting on the winch and 3 Pt Hitch. (The blade on the winch does not dig in and resist side loads as much as it does rearward loads.)

 

[rumwrks]

I went with chain for two reasons

First I could find them easier, so that was a big selling point

Second, and if I'm wrong here please someone correct me, but I didn't see how you'd choke the cable chokers up short when you're using the winch to drag logs and the chain is easy to adjust where you hook it up.

I think a self releasing snatch block is vital. I like the Igland from Stewardship Supplies. It doesn't have a gap where the cable can get wedged, and releases easily especially if you use it upside down.

The only self releasing blocks I can find online are the stewardship supplies and the one (I guess they actually have two but it's just different bodies, same block) Hud-Son sells. I don't really have any experience with either but am certainly interested in any comparisons (or other options..). The Igland looks maybe? a touch heavier but I can't find actual dimensions on either of them. The Igland is $50 cheaper but also back ordered until April.. The local forestry supply place (which is large and has apparently everything else..) didn't have any either (despite having regular blocks from 3" up to 24"..).