Anyone else make the same mistake I did?

   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #31  
Who needs a clutch, gears or hydraulics? Its 1903 and the pto stops when I get tired, maybe the shearpins will break before my arm does?

If I can get the rpm up at 540, everything should run fine! Need to invest in one of those new fangled overrunning gizmos cept I heared they are powered by black majik an the devil!


Shearpins/bolts tend to break frequently when the rpm is too low and inertia is unable to overcome the force. However brush mowers have pivoting blades that are supposed to move when it hits something hard so they can maintain the inertia.

If running at the rated rpm and still breaking pins it is likely something is getting hooked that is strong enough to stop the blades (couple of strands of tensile fensing will do it) or the mower is not immediately being disengaged when something hard is hit (can not hear it or do not notice it).

GFA5HC-2.jpeg.jpg
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #32  
Tractors MX-5400, Brush Hog (aka Rotary Cutter) Is a Land Pride 6 Footer. I broke my first shear pin after having the brush hog a year and a half (but with only about 35 hours on the brush hog) Pretty good run and it's kind of expected to break one every now and then. I looked in my garage and couldn't find any 1/2" x 3" Grade 2 bolts so went to the hardware store, no luck there, only grade 5 and grade 8, so then went to dealer and they were out. So then went to Tractor supply and bought a 5 pack of country line shear bolts and broke 3 while mowing a half hour lol.
My luck went the other way;
I've had my third tiller now for 8 years. It has a shear bolt, the first 2 tillers I owned had slip clutches.
When I bought it, I figured it would bust a shear pin quite often, especially if I didn't have a handy replacement.
So I bought several dozen of them and devised a way to have them and the tools to replace it with me at all times.

I broke the first one last week doing a pro-bono job after a large hedge row was torn out. Go figure....LOL
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #33  
5 foot Woods Dixie Cutter here, it came equipped with slip clutch.
With a 45 hp tractor it will easily choke the tractor without slipping.
With a 70 horse tractor the clutch will slip without phasing the tractor.
Bought the Woods cutter brandnew 40+ Years ago and have never had any trouble with it, so far I’m glad it has slip clutch instead of shear pins. Currently run it with a 55 horse LS XR4155
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #34  
I only use shredders for cheese and office paperwork. Mowers for everything else. Maybe the O.P. should slow down and raise the pto rpm, eh ?
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #35  
Some fields are harder than others too. I had watched plenty of people I hired cut my field over the years. The last guy kept a box of new pins handy. It's why I paid the extra $600-800 for the slip clutch on my land pride, and well worth it in my book. I hate shear pins, they can really let you down when you need to get something done and are out of replacements.
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #36  
The Shear Bolt is to protect the drive line and gear box from over load. If you install a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt the dealership's parts department will love you. Instead of breaking the shear bolt you will break the drive line or the gear box when you hit that big rock or stump. Your call, but a 25 cent bolt is not very expensive.

If you decide to get a slip clutch, you will need to maintain it at least once a year by loosening the springs on the clutch, block the rotary cutter or rotary tiller so the clutch will slip and get all the dirt and rust out of it. Then retighten the slip clutch bolts to the factory setting. If you don't do this the slip clutch might not slip and you will be in buying a drive shaft.
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #37  
The Shear Bolt is to protect the drive line and gear box from over load. If you install a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt the dealership's parts department will love you. Instead of breaking the shear bolt you will break the drive line or the gear box when you hit that big rock or stump. Your call, but a 25 cent bolt is not very expensive.

If you decide to get a slip clutch, you will need to maintain it at least once a year by loosening the springs on the clutch, block the rotary cutter or rotary tiller so the clutch will slip and get all the dirt and rust out of it. Then retighten the slip clutch bolts to the factory setting. If you don't do this the slip clutch might not slip and you will be in buying a drive shaft.
I don’t find it nearly that difficult. I just loosen the bolts and engage/disengage a couple of times at full 540 rpm. Then retighten just snug. My 5’ shredder doesn’t make it slip at “snug” and I dispense with measurements, torque, etc and all the time to set it “properly”.

I do mow mostly grass/weeds with a few assorted sticks and limbs that get in the way, and sometimes the ground where I have a perfectly positioned rise. I rarely see my clutch slip except with the bolts fully loose (I use a paint pen to check).
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #38  
I think there is a place for either shear bolts or slip clutches on brush mowers. For light cutting, shear bolts are fine, less expensive, and relatively maintenance free. For heavy duty cutting, slip clutches are definitely better.
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #39  
Tractors MX-5400, Brush Hog (aka Rotary Cutter) Is a Land Pride 6 Footer. I broke my first shear pin after having the brush hog a year and a half (but with only about 35 hours on the brush hog) Pretty good run and it's kind of expected to break one every now and then. I looked in my garage and couldn't find any 1/2" x 3" Grade 2 bolts so went to the hardware store, no luck there, only grade 5 and grade 8, so then went to dealer and they were out. So then went to Tractor supply and bought a 5 pack of country line shear bolts and broke 3 while mowing a half hour lol.
Did I notice that the Tractor supply shear pins had holes thru them just above the treads. That would weaken them severely
 
   / Anyone else make the same mistake I did? #40  
Many Shear Pins are broken due to operator error. First mistake is using Bush Hog in Reverse,
Second is cutting too low. Broken pins damaged housings, destroyed rear wheel mounts.
Keep your hand on the raise lever, and move Forward wherever possible. The front of the unit will warn you of obstructions most times.
 
 
Top