At Home In The Woods

[woodlandfarms]

Sorry everyone. I was mixing up my numbers. I was going on the stock number (390) and assuming it was a refrence to cc. I have a little Stihl 180 and my 32" is a 44. The 44 is just a bit too heavy for around the farm use with the 32" bar.

 

[Obed]

New Chainsaw!

Today I finally bought a new chainsaw. This morning I looked up the Stihl dealers in the area. I chose 2 that were each about 7 miles from here but located in opposite directions. I first went to the store that is on my way to work and would be the most convenient store for getting future service. When I got there, the sales person was a "kid". He didn't know a whole lot. I spoke to him long enough to be nice and then went to the other store that is less conveniently located. However, this store is in a small town in the adjacent county that is more rural than the first store. Conseqentially, this store had people in the store who knew about chainsaws and use them themselves.



I bought a Stihl MS 391 (64 cm engine) with a 20" bar. I bought a 6 pack of Stilh 2-cycle oil in order to get a 2 year saw warrantee instead of the 1 year warrantee. I also picked up a hand file kit.

The Stihl bar oil was $12 for a gallon so I picked up a gallon. It surprised me that the Stihl bar oil was cheaper than motor oil ($4/quart). I've been using motor oil to lube the chain on my Poulon. However, since the bar oil is cheaper and made for chainsaws, I'll use bar oil moving forward.

chainsaw	$550
chainsaw case	free???
bar oil	$13
2 cycle oil 6-pack	$11
3/8" sharpening set	$20
tax	$58
Total	$652

After looking at my bill, I did not appear to get charged for the $25 chainsaw case. I'll have to call them Monday and make sure that was not a mistake.

 

[dstig1]

That will serve you well for many years if you take care of it. Clean the gook out, keep it sharp, and clean the air filter regularly. Don't let it sit for months without starting it so the carb doesn't gook up. For bar oil, I recommend an actual bar oil as they add tackifiers to the mix which helps it stay on the chain/bar better and not just all fling off. But find the cheapest stuff you can. I go to Menards or Fleet Farm here and can often find it in the $6/gal range, if you watch for sales. Stihls oil is ridiculously priced here. Like $20+/gal

Learn how to file your chain, and give it a swipe or two every couple tankfuls and everything will be much happier. You can still take it in for sharpening to get it trued back up periodically as it is hard to maintain angles by hand, but even a little hand filing will save you a lot of money and grief when using it.

 

[clemsonfor]

your gonna love that saw obed. I have a ms390 which is the old version of that SAW. I have cut tons of firewood literally! Yea bar oil is ccheaper on sale you can get it for like $9 at TSC. That saw will run like a raped ape compared to the poulan!

 

[radioman]

very good choice of saw! by the way -- using regular motor oil- the stuff just flies off the bar and lets bar run a bit hotter.also it will run out quicker. the bar tip will just wear out and be loose after awhile. SO stay away from motor oil unless you are out of bar oil and need to cut another fuel tank worth and be done with it for the day.
You may want to watch those stihl you tube videos on sharpening . lots of good tips.

 

[dave1949]

Sorry everyone. I was mixing up my numbers. I was going on the stock number (390) and assuming it was a refrence to cc. I have a little Stihl 180 and my 32" is a 44. The 44 is just a bit too heavy for around the farm use with the 32" bar.

I was wondering if you had found some sort of wonder saw, weighs 2 lbs and runs a 24" bar -- if you did, I want one :laughing: Yeah, 32" is plenty of saw to handle I bet. I do everything I can with my little Stihl 019. It's good for stuff up to about 4", then it has kerf width issues. But what a joy for small limbing and trailside branch whacking, it's easy to one-hand it.

Congrats on your new saw Obed! That should do some serious cutting.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Buy More chains!!!! It is easier to swap a chain (although every pro on the group will disagree with me on this) than it is to file on site. Then file them sharp when you get home. One hit of the tip in the dirt will dull that chain. I think I have 6 chains for my 14 and 4 for my 32.

 

[RadarTech]

Buy More chains!!!! It is easier to swap a chain (although every pro on the group will disagree with me on this) than it is to file on site. Then file them sharp when you get home. One hit of the tip in the dirt will dull that chain. I think I have 6 chains for my 14 and 4 for my 32.

Yeah I second that... At least 2 spares....

 

[clemsonfor]

Buy More chains!!!! It is easier to swap a chain (although every pro on the group will disagree with me on this) than it is to file on site. Then file them sharp when you get home. One hit of the tip in the dirt will dull that chain. I think I have 6 chains for my 14 and 4 for my 32.

I agree and buy the HF chain grinder for $30. I use to but that thing shows you your inconsistencies, and will get them new sharp in less than 5 mins. You wont take off to much metal like the shops do unless you have trashed a tooth and have to grind it back. But I can literally cut about 2 truck loads of oak before I can tell the chin is getting dull. But I DONT cut dirt this will dull your saw in less than a second!! That and cutting wood with dirt all in the bark.

 

[mkane09]

New Chainsaw!

Today I finally bought a new chainsaw. This morning I looked up the Stihl dealers in the area. I chose 2 that were each about 7 miles from here but located in opposite directions. I first went to the store that is on my way to work and would be the most convenient store for getting future service. When I got there, the sales person was a "kid". He didn't know a whole lot. I spoke to him long enough to be nice and then went to the other store that is less conveniently located. However, this store is in a small town in the adjacent county that is more rural than the first store. Conseqentially, this store had people in the store who knew about chainsaws and use them themselves.

Obed, did you buy it at Deal's in Clinton? All those old fellers in there know their stuff. Several months ago they talked me into trying Sten oil in my 026. They said I'd gain 500 RPMs over Stihl oil, which is what I was using. So, I bought a tube and mixed a gallon and......couldn't believe it was the same saw. That's all I burn in it, the weed eater, and the leaf blower (all Stihls) now. It's got a fuel stabilizer mixed in and there is almost no smoke. You might want to give it a try. BTW, you can get 100% gasoline for all your small engines at Eddie Hair Firestone in Oak Ridge.

mkane09

 

[MotorSeven]

Wow Obed, I'm impressed:thumbsup: That saw will last a lifetime if properly taken care of. Here are a few tips I have learned (some have already been mentioned):

-Find a station that sells non Ethanol gasoline for your saw and any other small engine you have. You may have to hunt around & make some calls but it's still available here in TN(our COOP carries it). Ethanol is the worst thing on the planet for small engine carbs...cloggs them up. Stihl mix oil does have a fuel stabilizer in it, but if you have to run Ethanol fuel get some Marine Stabil(Wallyworld carrys it), the green stuff not the regular red Stabil & add some to your saw mix. Marine Stabil kills ethanol in gasoline.

-Use a dedicated fuel can for your mixed fuel and mark it prominently with something like "CHAINSAW MIX FUEL" in bold Sharpie pen. Never ever put fuel in that container without adding the 2-stroke mix. Many dead saws out there from straight gas...kills 'em quick.

-regular Stihl mix oil is pretty good. But next time you need some buy the white bottle full synthetic Sthil mix....it protects your engine better.

-Never let the bar touch the dirt.......when it does and it will, stop and take a few swipes on each cutter with the file. A dull chain has many undesirable characteristics besides cutting "slow". It generates heat, wearing out a host of saw components- bar, sprocket, clutch, & can damage housings besides it causes the chain to stretch out and hang which leads to it popping off the bar.

-learn how to file a chain and rakers. Plenty of info on the net, but I like filing against the cutters(file into the cutting edge). Now my Dad taught me to file away and I did it that way for years. When I got into chainsaw milling I watched a video that taught this "new" method. Filing against the cutter smooths the hard chrome coating(which is what does most of the cutting work) of the cutter against the softer steel under that coating. Filing away pushes the coating out off the edge of the cutter leaving kind of a ragged edge. As soon as you start sawing that ragged edge breaks off leaving a divit on the cutting edge...divit=dull. Both methods start out with the same level of sharpness, but filing against the cutters makes the chain stay sharper longer. Try it both ways and see if you don't notice a difference.

-get in the habit of swiping that file on those cutters every time you fuel up...just one or two swipes is all you need to keep a chain razor sharp all day long.

-not this week, but if we EVER get a winter here, mix a little automatic transmission fluid in with your bar oil. Sub freezing temps really hamper summer blends of bar oil and the ATF will make it function better in cold weather.

-a chain grinder is a great tool. I have not tried the newer HF one, the old one was not so great. I bought the Northern Tool one when it was on sale for $89 and think it's a great value:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200327449_200327449?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Logging-_-Chain%20Saw%20Sharpeners%2C%20Maintenance%20%2B%20Repair-_-193020&ci_sku=193020&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=COfaip695LQCFQmCQgodFG8AZg

-if you don't have any get some chainsaw chaps and wear them(I do). Just like in firearms, get in the habit of keeping your finger out of the trigger guard when taking any steps. The reason is that if you trip and fall(easy to do with logs & limbs all around you) the sympathetic reaction of your central nervous system will cause an involuntary reaction of grabbing said trigger. Now not only are you falling, but your saw is winding up to full throttle...not good. This happens all the time and with no chaps on you have no chance of not sawing into a perfectly good leg or calf. Also when I saw in the woods I wear steel toed boots, a helmet and ear plugs.

-and last...NEVER EVER LEND YOUR SAW TO ANYONE. I don't care if it's the priest from your church, your best friend, or even your dear old mother. This one is easy, "Sorry I can't let you borrow my saw, but I'll be glad to come cut that tree up for you, and btw I drink- { }"[insert favorite beverage here]:laughing:

Have fun man your gonna get Perma-Grin every time you use that thing!

 

[clemsonfor]

Obed, did you buy it at Deal's in Clinton? All those old fellers in there know their stuff. Several months ago they talked me into trying Sten oil in my 026. They said I'd gain 500 RPMs over Stihl oil, which is what I was using. So, I bought a tube and mixed a gallon and......couldn't believe it was the same saw. That's all I burn in it, the weed eater, and the leaf blower (all Stihls) now. It's got a fuel stabilizer mixed in and there is almost no smoke. You might want to give it a try. BTW, you can get 100% gasoline for all your small engines at Eddie Hair Firestone in Oak Ridge.

mkane09

these things have a redline that they should be tuned to and not exceed it? Not saying you did not gain it but I don't think I would want to run 500rpm over my current topend!

 

[clemsonfor]

I bought the $30 HF grinder and it works as well as $100+ grinders I have heard, I recommend buying this one.

Also if you use stihl oil it has stabilizer in it so you don't have to use stabil with it as there is already a stabilizer in it.

Also don't forget to file down your rakers every so often, if you don't know what this means or how to do it look at a youtube vid. I use to file rakers every 3-5x of hand fileing. I now hit it about every 2-3x of grinder sharpening. But the rakers is the shark fin thing between the cutters. It controls the depth the cutting tooth is allowed to go. If you file it to much you can get the saw pulling you around or if you put to much pressure on it and its to low you can bog up the saw, to tall and you will take forever to cut anything. I rather have them to low than to tall.

 

[MotorSeven]

Also if you use stihl oil it has stabilizer in it so you don't have to use stabil with it as there is already a stabilizer in it.

Stabilizer yes, but not an Ethanol killer. Right now there are only a few out there that do have it, Phazer, Marine Stabil, Lucas and a couple of others.

Ethanol...the stuff is insidious....It...Must...Be ....Stopped!!!!

 

[clemsonfor]

Stabilizer yes, but not an Ethanol killer. Right now there are only a few out there that do have it, Phazer, Marine Stabil, Lucas and a couple of others.

Ethanol...the stuff is insidious....It...Must...Be ....Stopped!!!!

Agreed, but that's why all my stuff except vehicles get ethanol free. Small engines get E free premium, this is to include, chainsaw, weedwhacker, 4wheeler, lawnmower sometimes.

 

[clemsonfor]

Stabilizer yes, but not an Ethanol killer. Right now there are only a few out there that do have it, Phazer, Marine Stabil, Lucas and a couple of others.

Ethanol...the stuff is insidious....It...Must...Be ....Stopped!!!!

I have rebuild the same rider mower card 2x this summer because of the stuff before I put a fuel cutoff in the line!! Before that the carb leaked so all the fuel would run out and not gum it up and stick the needle so it was like a cut off. When I rebuilt the carb and stopped the tiny leak it had that's when the problems started. This is a mower at my farm property, which may only get used once every 4-8 weeks in the summer.

 

[jinman]

Wow Obed! Talk about Santa Claus arrivin' late. . . that's one heck of a nice gift to yourself.:dance1: Chips are gonna be flying at your house.

 

[Obed]

That will serve you well for many years if you take care of it. Clean the gook out, keep it sharp, and clean the air filter regularly. Don't let it sit for months without starting it so the carb doesn't gook up. For bar oil, I recommend an actual bar oil as they add tackifiers to the mix which helps it stay on the chain/bar better and not just all fling off. But find the cheapest stuff you can. I go to Menards or Fleet Farm here and can often find it in the $6/gal range, if you watch for sales. Stihls oil is ridiculously priced here. Like $20+/gal

Dave,
I'll have to see if I can find a source for bar oil. $6/gal sounds a lot better than $13.

Learn how to file your chain, and give it a swipe or two every couple tankfuls and everything will be much happier. You can still take it in for sharpening to get it trued back up periodically as it is hard to maintain angles by hand, but even a little hand filing will save you a lot of money and grief when using it.

Today I'm going to watch some YouTube videos to help get me started learning to sharpen a saw. When I bought the Stihl sharpening kit, I asked if the kit had instructions and I was told "Yes". Have a look at the instructions that were in the pack.



Does anybody else reminisce about the old days when English was used?

 

[Obed]

Obed, did you buy it at Deal's in Clinton? All those old fellers in there know their stuff. Several months ago they talked me into trying Sten oil in my 026. They said I'd gain 500 RPMs over Stihl oil, which is what I was using. So, I bought a tube and mixed a gallon and......couldn't believe it was the same saw. That's all I burn in it, the weed eater, and the leaf blower (all Stihls) now. It's got a fuel stabilizer mixed in and there is almost no smoke. You might want to give it a try.

mkane09,
Yes, I bought the chainsaw at Deals. We have done business with them before and they seem to be good. They even started up my new chainsaw in their shop and made sure everything checked out.

BTW, you can get 100% gasoline for all your small engines at Eddie Hair Firestone in Oak Ridge.

I am fortunate to have a gas station 2 miles from the house that has an ethanol-free gas pump. The chainsaw dealer told me about the Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada website that lists ethanol-free gas stations. The gas station you mentioned is on the list. It is handy to be able to find other stations.

As a side note, TN has almost 400 gas stations listed that sell ethanol-free gas; CA has only 5 stations listed. I feel for you guys out there.

Obed

 

[Obed]

Wow Obed, I'm impressed:thumbsup: That saw will last a lifetime if properly taken care of. Here are a few tips I have learned (some have already been mentioned):

...

-and last...NEVER EVER LEND YOUR SAW TO ANYONE. I don't care if it's the priest from your church, your best friend, or even your dear old mother. This one is easy, "Sorry I can't let you borrow my saw, but I'll be glad to come cut that tree up for you, and btw I drink- { }"[insert favorite beverage here]:laughing:

Have fun man your gonna get Perma-Grin every time you use that thing!

M7,
Great suggestions that I will definitely keep in mind. I don't think I will loan out the Stihl. I might loan out one of the Poulons. I have a 14" Poulan and a 20" Poulan. I don't need the 20" Poulan anymore and might get rid of it. I'll keep the 14" for small tasks. Having a lightweight saw for little stuff is very handy. There are some people that I would probably lend the 14" Poulan to. My FIL lent me his chainsaw when a big hickory tree blocked my driveway and I was in a real bind. I need to keep these things in mind.

However, the Stihl will not be a loaner.

Obed