B2320 Back wheel started to fall off @ 22 hr's
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CHDinCT
Veteran Member
Interesting thread. Glad Kubota stepped up on a new rim for the OP. I did check my lug nuts during the 50 hr service last month but couldn't get my torque wrench onto the nuts on my BX since the tire sidewall was in the way. Dumb question. If I pick up a 1/2" drive extension so I can reach the nuts, does using the drive extension throw off the torque wrench setting? Been debating this in my mind but not sure. Opinions?
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Not as long as the force is applied along the same axis and not off to the side which is easier to do the longer the extension is.
houstonscott
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Are you sure the one bolt is on backwards. Tractor wheels have some the bolts in the pattern backwards to make it easy to get a wheel on, and are designed that way. Not sure if this is the case with yours but I would check.
HS
HS
Texas Fella
Silver Member
Just FYI for those who do not know. The reason lug nuts can come loose (and the reason you check them at low hours) once, and then never again is the paint on the wheel. Believe it or not, the paint will compress and/or flake under the nut after a few hours. Sometimes, it is not enought to notice, other times, the lug nut gets looks and works its was off. I know alot of customers who think that a dealer did not tighten them during assembly because the are loose at 10-30 hours. I am sure this is true some times, but often, it is just the paint. The same think can happen with loader frames, so be sure to check your bolts on the loader frame for the first few (50) hours. I have read several differant suggestions on hours (5, 10, 20, 25, etc), but I would just check them several times in the first 50. Also, you do not really need a torque wrench (use on if you have one), us can just make sure they are tight if you don't have access to the tools. Just FYI for anyone interested.
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There was a retired guy that had quite a little business painting wheels on the side... he built a machine that would slowly rotate up to 6 wheels to get a perfect finish... he always put dummy plugs in the bolt holes because of too many problems when painted surfaces are torqued.
Update.
STILL waiting for my wheel. Dealer seemed to have lost the one that was ordered. Dealer blames Trucking company/Kubota.
Meanwhile I did check other wheels. I could barely budge any. Only one loose is the one that had at least one lug on backwards and almost fell off.
I managed to get all the old studs out. I had a heck of time getting them out.
Keep in mind the studs were worn only near the base.
A stud and nut that had no visible damage I would screw on a nut and it would start to get tight after say 3 turns or so and then eventually the stud would start turning inward. Then I try to remove the nut and it was so bound up the stud would come out (with quite a bit of force). But at least the stud came out. This happened like on 3 studs with different nuts. Screw nut on, it would jam so bad that when I back it out stud would come out.
One stud fell out, one was hand tight the whole way. And the other was the backwards lug and it came out easy nut and stud as one.
I swear some might have had locktite and others not.
The studs are not hardened steel like cars. They are quite soft.
All the holes for the studs look clean. But I'm worried the new studs might bind like the nuts did while trying to remove studs.
So I'm thinking of running a tap through them in case there is some locktite or burr. But I'm also worried I may not "catch" the original thread with the tap (I've done that before). It's really tricky catching an old thread with a tap. Or that I may tap them out slightly bigger than factory and may cause more trouble.
Any suggestions appreciated.
I wish the hub held the wheel centered like it does in the front so it was not so critical the studs are perfect.
STILL waiting for my wheel. Dealer seemed to have lost the one that was ordered. Dealer blames Trucking company/Kubota.
Meanwhile I did check other wheels. I could barely budge any. Only one loose is the one that had at least one lug on backwards and almost fell off.
I managed to get all the old studs out. I had a heck of time getting them out.
Keep in mind the studs were worn only near the base.
A stud and nut that had no visible damage I would screw on a nut and it would start to get tight after say 3 turns or so and then eventually the stud would start turning inward. Then I try to remove the nut and it was so bound up the stud would come out (with quite a bit of force). But at least the stud came out. This happened like on 3 studs with different nuts. Screw nut on, it would jam so bad that when I back it out stud would come out.
One stud fell out, one was hand tight the whole way. And the other was the backwards lug and it came out easy nut and stud as one.
I swear some might have had locktite and others not.
The studs are not hardened steel like cars. They are quite soft.
All the holes for the studs look clean. But I'm worried the new studs might bind like the nuts did while trying to remove studs.
So I'm thinking of running a tap through them in case there is some locktite or burr. But I'm also worried I may not "catch" the original thread with the tap (I've done that before). It's really tricky catching an old thread with a tap. Or that I may tap them out slightly bigger than factory and may cause more trouble.
Any suggestions appreciated.
I wish the hub held the wheel centered like it does in the front so it was not so critical the studs are perfect.
bp fick
Super Member
taos, good catch. Gotta say, however, that in 4 hours, it seems almost impossible that the dealer torqued them correctly when he installed the wheels when they took that tractor out of the crate. Golly.
