Backhoe Design Ideas

[MJPetersen]

Farmer,

Generally the backhoe should be connected to at least 4 points. 2 of those points (bottom) may be open to the front or to the bottom and act as guides, and then the other 2 are retained through pins. But sometimes people use the 2 guides and then put in 4 pins anyway.

Open on the bottom might sound strange, until you think about running the bh, when you put down the stabilizers, the weight of the tractor hangs on the inverted hook.

I have heard lots of horror stories of using the toplink connect point. Stories that read from ripping it off to breaking the casting or something else similar. I do not believe that I would do it.

Mike

 

[Iplayfarmer]

How big is your tractor? this just showed up on the Boise craigslist this morning:

backhoe 4-point hook up for tractor

My tractor is about half the size of that one. But, at that price it sure is tempting. One of the problems too is that I already have about half the cost paid out for hydraulics.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Here are the pictures of the rear of the subframe as mounted to the tractor. The 1/2" plate at the bottom bolts up to the ROPS mounting holes. The 2" tubes that you can see closer to the center of the tractor run the full length of the underbelly and are welded to the 3"X4" cross member that the loader uprights bolt to. I'm also planning on making some tabs along the length of these tubes for the subframe to bolt to more points on the frame of the tractor to add support and stability.

I'm going to try to design something that the backhoe can attach to, but that will still allow the use of the 3pt. hitch. Any bets on if it can be done?

 

[jimmysisson]

I used to have one like the CL ad, only probably older (late '50s or so). The straight legs are a pain. He didn't show it with the feet up and hoe stowed. The feet don't clear the ground by much and you're forever hung up on something. Mine had four levers to run also, though his looks maybe like 2? You get very dextrous with 4 levers!
Yeah, keep working on a build!
Jim

 

[dfkrug]

I'm going to try to design something that the backhoe can attach to, but that will still allow the use of the 3pt. hitch. Any bets on if it can be done?

Well, that depends on what you mean. There are numerous subframes
shown on TBN (including some of mine) that do not require full removal of
the 3-pt. If you mean NO part of the 3-pt is removed, then you have a
tough design problem. I think it is enough, given the trade-offs, not to
block the easy re-mounting of the 3-pt lift links, stabilizers, and toplink.
Not having to remove the 3-pt arms is a good thing.

 

[charlz]

In this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/118597-b6200-backhoe-mounts.html

I showed pics of how my hoe hooks to the tractor. It uses the loader subframe and some other brackets which are bolted to the rear axle. You have to take the lift arms etc off but other than that it is almost as fast as changing out any 3pt implement.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Well, that depends on what you mean. There are numerous subframes
shown on TBN (including some of mine) that do not require full removal of
the 3-pt. If you mean NO part of the 3-pt is removed, then you have a
tough design problem. I think it is enough, given the trade-offs, not to
block the easy re-mounting of the 3-pt lift links, stabilizers, and toplink.
Not having to remove the 3-pt arms is a good thing.

I figure the lift arms, etc. will be off when the backhoe is on. I'm just trying to make sure that I can leave the subframe in place when using the 3 pt. I want to plan it so that going from backhoe work to mowing pasture is not some kind of Hurculean task.

I'll have to go to the thread Charlz linked to and pirate ideas.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Here are some rough draft drawings from Sketchup. Big thanks to FlatheadYoungin for telling me the easy way to export .jpeg images.

Based on the dimensions in the drawing and the cylinders that I plan to use, I figure the digging depth with be a little over 9'. The reach will be almost exactly 10', and the transport height will be below my ROPS.

The other decision I've made is to use 1 1/2 inch solid square stock to insert into the 2 inch tubes of my subframe to connect the backhoe to the subframe. I'm figuring to have them go about a foot in with a pin on each side to hold it in. I did make one side shorter than the other. The thinking there is that I can get one side inserted into the tube, and then line up the other side. I hate having to line up two sides simultaneously. (Anyone tried to re-hang a gate by yourself?)

Comments, concerns and criticisms are welcome at this point. It's easy to change a drawing, but the real thing will be a lot harder to change.

 

[GT2]

Here are some rough draft drawings from Sketchup. Big thanks to FlatheadYoungin for telling me the easy way to export .jpeg images.

Based on the dimensions in the drawing and the cylinders that I plan to use, I figure the digging depth with be a little over 9'. The reach will be almost exactly 10', and the transport height will be below my ROPS.

The other decision I've made is to use 1 1/2 inch solid square stock to insert into the 2 inch tubes of my subframe to connect the backhoe to the subframe. I'm figuring to have them go about a foot in with a pin on each side to hold it in. I did make one side shorter than the other. The thinking there is that I can get one side inserted into the tube, and then line up the other side. I hate having to line up two sides simultaneously. (Anyone tried to re-hang a gate by yourself?)

Comments, concerns and criticisms are welcome at this point. It's easy to change a drawing, but the real thing will be a lot harder to change.

This may not happen, but if the 12" insert stubs ever bend your going to play heck trying to get them in and out of the receivers.
If it was me I think I would plate the sides, top and bottom of the receivers a foot or so and then make the insert stubs shorter, maybe 4"?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

This may not happen, but if the 12" insert stubs ever bend your going to play heck trying to get them in and out of the receivers.
If it was me I think I would plate the sides, top and bottom of the receivers a foot or so and then make the insert stubs shorter, maybe 4"?

Good point. I hadn't thought of that. I suppose if 4" isn't going to hold then 12" wouldn't do any better.

I'm assuming that by "plate the sides, top, and bottom of the receivers" you mean to add some metal to the outsides to strengthen it up a bit?