Backhoe Design Ideas

[GT2]

I'll have to keep my eyes open for a pump. The new cylinders will cost almost $200. I suppose if I can get a pump with 5-8 GPM flow for that price it would be a better option.

In the mean time, I'm back to designing the actual structure of the backhoe. I'm going with the curved boom.

You might check into doing a curved plate style like the NH backhoes.
I havent done it yet but my friend has.
He goes to a shop that uses a lazor or water jet or what ever, and has plates cut out with pin holes and design details.
He says if you consider your time the price is quite reasonable, and you get a superior part!

 

[Iplayfarmer]

You might check into doing a curved plate style like the NH backhoes.
I havent done it yet but my friend has.
He goes to a shop that uses a lazor or water jet or what ever, and has plates cut out with pin holes and design details.
He says if you consider your time the price is quite reasonable, and you get a superior part!

I have a brother-in-law with a big shop and a plasma cutter. That's free for me. I think I will do a curved plate.

Right now I have the boom designed with a 22.5 degree abrupt angle in it. I think I'll leave that but put a plate on either side that makes the curve look more sweeping. Maybe it's just vanity or silliness, but I want the backhoe to look good too. Function is the top priority, but I don't want it to look too homemade. I want people who see it to say "where did you get a backhoe to fit that tractor?" Rather than "Oh, did you make that?"

 

[john_bud]

I'll have to keep my eyes open for a pump. The new cylinders will cost almost $200. I suppose if I can get a pump with 5-8 GPM flow for that price it would be a better option.

In the mean time, I'm back to designing the actual structure of the backhoe. I'm going with the curved boom.

Check out the surplus cylinders at "Baileynet.com. You need to set up an account to buy (maybe have a buddy at a shop do it). 2&3/4" bore welded cylinder with 20" stroke is 138 bucks. These are new, but overbuild. Not used.

jb

 

[charlz]

Here's some pictures.

In your third pic, see that slot in the top of the PTO shield? On mine there is a plate bolted to the PTO pump which has tabs sticking out of it. One size is for a b6100 and the other is for a b7100. Replaces that big plate you have to keep the pump from turning. Basically just think of a big 'O' plate on the pump face with a tab that slides into that slot.

 

[charlz]

I checked, all the cylinders on my hoe are 2" with 1" shaft with the exception of the stabilizers having 1 1/8" shaft. Looks like the swing are single acting and everything else is dual acting.

 

[dfkrug]

I ran my caddigger on about 5 gpm or so and was too fast for my budies to have any fun with as it was jerky for them.

I agree that 5GPM is more than you need. My CADDigger 728 had 3"
cyls and I ran a Barnes .164 or .194 ci pump, for a flow of 2.5-3GPM at
3600 RPM. It was only a tiny bit on the slow side. I did stick with the
1500psi relief as recommended by the designer, and I still broke things.

This thing delivered lots of force, but it overwhelmed its weight all the
time. Attaching it to a tractor solves most of that, but then you
could not get the hoe into tight places, or up the mountainside, as I did.

 

[Renze]

I want people who see it to say "where did you get a backhoe to fit that tractor?" Rather than "Oh, did you make that?"

The same with me !! ... a project should show off the time and money invested in it....

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Check out the surplus cylinders at "Baileynet.com. You need to set up an account to buy (maybe have a buddy at a shop do it). 2&3/4" bore welded cylinder with 20" stroke is 138 bucks. These are new, but overbuild. Not used.

jb

I found the right cylinders at Surplus Center for 83.95 Each. I think I'm going to do like Charlz suggested and stick with 2"cylinders all around.

Anybody want a matched set of 2.75" Cylinders? I'll make you a heck of a deal.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Okay, next subject = Subframe.

I know that one of the big concerns of hooking a backhoe to a smaller tractor like this is the potential for damage to the tractor. General consensus seems to be that the way to avoid this is with a good subframe. I have a subframe that I built for my loader...

loader Subframe

(Sorry this is all I have for a picture right now. Give me a day or so, and I'll post a picture with the subframe actually on the tractor.)

I purposely extended it all the way to the back of the tractor so that I'd have something to hook the backhoe subframe to. How many attachment points does a typical backhoe have to the subframe? If I have two attachment points at the bottom that tie into this frame and then a link of sorts that connects to the 3 pt. toplink attachment point will that hold?

Should I build some kind of "fusable link" into the subframe such as a sheer pin so that the pin breaks before the tractor does?

 

[charlz]

How big is your tractor? this just showed up on the Boise craigslist this morning:

backhoe 4-point hook up for tractor