Barbed wire fence help

   / Barbed wire fence help #11  
Use sb2 to set wood posts,requires little tamping and allows for good drainage. Use chain links cut in half and weld to metal posts,then just run wire through link.double wrapping works well also.
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #12  
Is there any down side to running only T posts the entire 1400 feet with only one H brace?

If you have cattle in the fence with only T-post or if the fence is in a wet area the post will either start leaning from the cattle pushing on the fence while picking around it or it a wet are the T-posts will sink over time. I have one fence about 300 ft long with an H brace in the center & it has leaned over the last 7-8 years until I am going to have to take it out & rebuild it.
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #13  
If you have cattle in the fence with only T-post or if the fence is in a wet area the post will either start leaning from the cattle pushing on the fence while picking around it or it a wet are the T-posts will sink over time. I have one fence about 300 ft long with an H brace in the center & it has leaned over the last 7-8 years until I am going to have to take it out & rebuild it.

Are you in clay soil? I know in our sandy loam where its deep before hitting clay, the old fences that use all T posts have/do lean. Slowly replacing with cut posts as time/fence condition dictates..those fence lines got to 15-20 yrs old now.
Got to love fencing, always something to learn
 
   / Barbed wire fence help
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I drew a diagram and showed a friend that has done many miles in the area where I am doing mine. He said it should work out fine. I am going to spend the next week or two getting all of my materials and tools together. Hopefully I can do it all for about 80 cents a foot. I will post a complete build report along with a final cost.
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #15  
Are you in clay soil? I know in our sandy loam where its deep before hitting clay, the old fences that use all T posts have/do lean. Slowly replacing with cut posts as time/fence condition dictates..those fence lines got to 15-20 yrs old now.
Got to love fencing, always something to learn

Yes I have heavy clay soil and still have the problem with the posts leaning. The clay will get so hard in the summer that it is almost impossible to dig a hole even with a tractor mounted phd. I have used concrete around some corner posts & gate post & they rotted faster than the tamped posts. These were red cedar posts. There are red cedar posts set in some of the original fence line in the 1930's and they are still in good shape. A landscape timber won't last more than 3 years in the ground here.
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #16  
I drew a diagram and showed a friend that has done many miles in the area where I am doing mine. He said it should work out fine. I am going to spend the next week or two getting all of my materials and tools together. Hopefully I can do it all for about 80 cents a foot. I will post a complete build report along with a final cost.

I can tell you what my cost was for materials
6't-post $5.00
6.5' t-post $5.50
6"x8' treated post $18.00
48"x330ft field fence $140 a roll
Barbed wirer $60 a roll
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #17  
you really need 7ft T post.an drive them down 3ft deep.an yes over time steel T post will lean an need straighting back up.had a guy come straighten the post an restreach the wirethis year using the kubota.
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #18  
you really need 7ft T post.an drive them down 3ft deep.an yes over time steel T post will lean an need straighting back up.had a guy come straighten the post an restreach the wirethis year using the kubota.

If you use wood post & brace posts between the T-post leaning isn't a problem. T-posts lean when you try to cut corners/save time & not use wood posts between them. I have found that where I fenced & used 3 t-post spaced 15 ft apart & then put in wood post the fence hasn't leaned any.
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #19  
You wont get away with t posts every 15feet. Here on my exterior fences i run 2 t 1 4to5 inch wood post. I dont use green treat posts, i use creosolt posts. I have posts in cement that are 20 years old my grandfather set, like new.

The biggest thing with your posts is go to the junk yard and get some old hub caps to put over the tops. Will help keep them from rotting.

As for doing your long run of fence, i would suggest go to your local farm supply store, buy some orange bale string. Set your first corner post. Then stretch that string out so you know where you want your fence to be. Best way for setting your steel posts.


As for how tight do you want your wire, it depends on what wire are you going to run. If you are going to run the 12 1/2 gauge heavy duty wire you can stretch it tight. Do you have an atv with a winch? I use a winch to tighten all my wire. I also pull all my wire off of a roller on the 2inch hitch on my quad.

They make a wire clamp that has a big hole in the end of it for hooking to a block and tackle or a winch. Now the only thing with using an atv winch is for your top runs its not high enough. I take a 4inch wood post with some chain attached to it, at different heights i want my wire. Then i attach the wire calmp to it and to the wire. Then use the atv winch attached at the same height as the wire. This allows me to hold the post and draw the wire up tight. Nail it to your end post then go back and start to staple and run your clips.

I have had to run some long fences by my self and i can tell you having a mechincal advantage on pulling your wire and running it will save you a lot of pain and time.
 
   / Barbed wire fence help #20  
You wont get away with t posts every 15feet. Here on my exterior fences i run 2 t 1 4to5 inch wood post. I dont use green treat posts, i use creosolt posts. I have posts in cement that are 20 years old my grandfather set, like new.

The biggest thing with your posts is go to the junk yard and get some old hub caps to put over the tops. Will help keep them from rotting.

As for doing your long run of fence, i would suggest go to your local farm supply store, buy some orange bale string. Set your first corner post. Then stretch that string out so you know where you want your fence to be. Best way for setting your steel posts or


As for how tight do you want your wire, it depends on what wire are you going to run. If you are going to run the 12 1/2 gauge heavy duty wire you can stretch it tight. Do you have an atv with a winch? I use a winch to tighten all my wire. I also pull all my wire off of a roller on the 2inch hitch on my quad.

They make a wire clamp that has a big hole in the end of it for hooking to a block and tackle or a winch. Now the only thing with using an atv winch is for your top runs its not high enough. I take a 4inch wood post with some chain attached to it, at different heights i want my wire. Then i attach the wire calmp to it and to the wire. Then use the atv winch attached at the same height as the wire. This allows me to hold the post and draw the wire up tight. Nail it to your end post then go back and start to staple and run your clips.

I have had to run some long fences by my self and i can tell you having a mechincal advantage on pulling your wire and running it will save you a lot of pain and time.

You can also cut the top of post off at an angle to help water run off.As for stretching the wire,I go with the chain on tractor loader,come-along and one of these fence puller.jpg.I like the loader so I can adjust height,for straight pulls. I pull the wire close with tractor then do the final tightening with come-along or if you cant get in there with tractor loader even sideways gotta break out the olestretcher.jpg
 

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