Batwing with a single remote?

[EddieWalker]

Thank you for all the great advice. The tractor with just one remote has sold, so this is just good information for me while looking at other tractors. I wasn't sure if having just one remote, but liking everything else about the tractor was a deal breaker. It looks like it's a pretty simple thing to add another remote, or two, if I want to.

 

[RancherGuy]

Rhino model TS10 and TS12 are rough cut mowers for lower hp tractors and run off one remote. They are not a heavy duty mower but the would be useful to maintain pastures etc. Tractor Time with Tim shows him using one.

I see that Tim used only one remote and it is noted at 21:15 that he raised the deck to clear an object. In researching Rhino documentation, Rhino states:

"The TS10 is plumbed to require 1 tractor remote valve. Hydraulics are phased so the entire unit level lifts before the wings raise. The above kits allow hydraulic functions to be operated separately, but require 2 or 3 tractor remote valves."

While it is possible to use one remote, I think as a recommendation, it creates undisclosed limitations. When the deck is lifted, the wing tips become very light, so using this technique to mow with more height will have negative operational results. One also cannot lift a wing over a mud hole, stump or the edge of a pond.

If someone here asks for advice, if I were in their shoes, I would want to know what is practical, not what is minimal unless stated. So I try to respond that way. BTW, a TS10 mower is $10k. Spending that kind of money while recommending 1 remote doesn't make sense to me.

 

[Popgadget]

I have a Progressive TD65 16 foot finish mower. It has one pair of lines to work all three double acting cylinders to fold the side decks and raise the rear deck. I do have 3 remotes, but it only uses one. And yes, it would be a costly mistake to fold it up while the pto shaft was still turning.

I’ve also had JD and Woods batwing “bush hogs” that would also be damaged by folding them up with the pto engaged. They used two remotes, one to fold, one to raise and lower the wheels.

 

[Overtaxed]

My Woods BW12 is setup for a single remote. It's actually only a single line going back to the mower (power up, gravity down, so no need for 2 lines). When I got it, I thought I'd replumb it for 2 or 3 remotes, my tractor has 3 remotes on it, so I figured "why not". Well, 3 years later, it's still setup for a single. It works great, it's easy to hook up with a single hose, and I really have no need to raise the wings independently. As others have said, you have to shut down the PTO to lift the wings, the only CV joint is on the PTO shaft, so if you lift while it's running, you're gonna stress the heck out of the shaft/break it.

Anyway, yes, you can run it on a single remote and, honestly, despite having plenty of remotes, if I bought another one tomorrow, I'd have it setup for a single again. The ease of hookup and lack of hoses is very nice.

I have a rear blade with 3 cylinders on it (tilt/angle/offset) and I dread hooking that thing up. 6 monster hoses, and you have to get them "right" (one to input, one to output). Sounds easy, in practice, it's a PITA. For that thing, I do need all the remotes, but, if I could do with fewer, I would.

 

[RickB]

Color code the 6 hoses on your blade and the couplers on the tractor. Not difficult or expensive to use paint, colored tape or colored zip ties. Do it once and eliminate all the guesswork and confusion getting the functions attached to your preference.

 

[RancherGuy]

I have a rear blade with 3 cylinders on it (tilt/angle/offset) and I dread hooking that thing up. 6 monster hoses, and you have to get them "right" (one to input, one to output). Sounds easy, in practice, it's a PITA. For that thing, I do need all the remotes, but, if I could do with fewer, I would.

FWIW and not to intrude on this topic, but I have a rear blade with 4 cylinders, connected to my 3 SCV remotes. I have an electric splitter to select between 2 cylinders, thus supporting the 4. I know what you mean by the monster hoses. However, all of my lines are 1/4" - light and flexible. No need to go with anything larger, especially avoid the 1/2". You only need large diameter if you want the cylinders to react quickly. On a blade, there is no such requirement. When yours ages out and need to be replaced, or when you get tired of man-handling them, replace with smaller hoses.

And another suggestion to save time and frustration is to use colored zip ties. I have a bundle of 4" long ones (very small) that come in multiple colors. For port 1 hoses, I put on 1 zip tie on the hose tip ... port 2 has 2 zip ties ... port 3 has 3 zip ties. I use green for the lower hose (closest to grass) and red or yellow for the upper hose (closest to the sun). Never gotten them mixed up.