Box blade question

[Rock Crawler]

Also...there are several tips and tricks for using lighter box blades designed for CUT and SCUT machines so they perform like much heavier blades...

I find that standing on it (adding my 200 lbs) helps the box blade a great deal. I keep saying that I am going to weld up a weight tray for it so that I can toss a couple lbs of steel on it... but then there is beer.

 

[/pine]

I find that standing on it (adding my 200 lbs) helps the box blade a great deal. I keep saying that I am going to weld up a weight tray for it so that I can toss a couple lbs of steel on it... but then there is beer.

Using additional dynamic weight makes it easy to attach to the 3PH also...:thumbsup:

 

[fried1765]

I find that standing on it (adding my 200 lbs) helps the box blade a great deal. I keep saying that I am going to weld up a weight tray for it so that I can toss a couple lbs of steel on it... but then there is beer.

You could make a simple wood form, add a loop of re-bar for a hook, and pour an easily removable concrete weight.

 

[DieselBound]

As /pine suggests, an hydraulic top link will make a world of difference. I don't have one for my B7800. I've run a 5' (Modern) box blade on it, it's heck-for-stout (NOT going to break this box blade). Not sure how much it weighs, but likely as much as any higher-end 5' box blade I'd suppose. My Kioti has an hydraulic top link and I've found that it allows me to angle the box blade (7' about 1,200l bs) such that I really don't have to use the rippers (which are hydraulic); it will peel sod, rolling it up and on top of the front of the box blade and providing even more weight; using the rippers will just act like an anchor! I have, however, used the rippers on my B7800's box blade to rip up roots (a lot of work; eventually got tired of that and now when I have to really attack a stump I rent an excavator!).