brake pads 2012 f-150

[mjw357]

I've had mixed luck with getting rotors turned, in one case got them back on and there was horrible flutter in the pedal. So ordered new rotors and had to do the whole procedure all over again. Unless the rotors are nearly pristine when the pads get worn, it's worth it to me to just replace rotors and pads. Not worth my time screwing around with it and don't want the truck down like that.

 

[Diamondpilot]

What are you guys paying to have them turned? The 2 places within 15 miles of me want $20 for car rotors and $25 for trucks. I did a Durango a few years back at they had new rotors for less than the cost of turning.

Even at say $45 per rotor it's not worth a 1/2 day wasted and 30 miles of driving when there is only $80 between turning and new.

Chris

 

[mjw357]

I forget, I wanna say $15 or $20 each. So $40 plus 2 round trips to the shop, with no guarantee that they are going to be within spec when I get them back. Just not worth the headaches to save $100 or whatever for new rotors.

 

[mikehaugen]

What are you guys paying to have them turned? The 2 places within 15 miles of me want $20 for car rotors and $25 for trucks. I did a Durango a few years back at they had new rotors for less than the cost of turning.

Even at say $45 per rotor it's not worth a 1/2 day wasted and 30 miles of driving when there is only $80 between turning and new.

Chris

Last time I called they said $15 each, did not specify car/truck. I opted for new ones that time because they weren't in great shape.

I haven't checked your link yet, but rockauto is the cheapest place I have found for rotors. Yeah, there are cheap rotors available, but decent ones are about $50-80 + shipping.

If I am not in a huge hurry there is a place that turns them right by my work so I drop them off one day and pick them up next day.

 

[dodge man]

I think I pay $12 to get them turned. It also depends on the price of new rotors, some are pretty cheap, some not so cheap. Rock Auto almost always has the best price on parts but the shipping is high. Amazon usually will have the best overall price.

 

[mrmikey]

You had to pull the axles? I have done a few of this setup, but never a Ranger, and didn't have to pull axles.

Yup, the emergency brake shoes (puny, thin and about 1/2 as wide as conventional brake shoes but cost as much as), are behind the stud plate, other than the actual brake surface, are completely hidden by the plate. Puling the axles wasn't bad except for the smell of gear oil which **** near makes me hurl and the fact that it cost me almost 4 liters of gear oil. Worst was I knocked one of the pinion gears out of place and it took me 1/2 an hour to get it rolled back into place. so I could put the pinion axle back in....Mike

 

[sld]

I would never do a brake job without turning or replacing the rotors. It will never be as good.

That being said, I prefer to buy new rotors instead of making multiple trips and the extra downtime. I think cheap aftermarket new rotors are just as good as turning factory rotors. It's all about the thickness and that is what handles the heat well.

I like Wagner Thermoquiet pads and have had very good luck with them.

 

[dodge man]

Yup, the emergency brake shoes (puny, thin and about 1/2 as wide as conventional brake shoes but cost as much as), are behind the stud plate, other than the actual brake surface, are completely hidden by the plate. Puling the axles wasn't bad except for the smell of gear oil which **** near makes me hurl and the fact that it cost me almost 4 liters of gear oil. Worst was I knocked one of the pinion gears out of place and it took me 1/2 an hour to get it rolled back into place. so I could put the pinion axle back in....Mike

I'm pretty sure there is a way without pulling the axles. Usually you can back off the e brakes to get it apart. I did have to beat off the rotors on my truck which ruined them.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I'm pretty sure there is a way without pulling the axles. Usually you can back off the e brakes to get it apart. I did have to beat off the rotors on my truck which ruined them.

Yep, the ones I have done you back off the cable tension at either the e-brakes at lever or pedal in the cab with an adjustment screw or under the vehicle at the left/right divider.

Chris

 

[The Fred]

Nobody machines brake discs these days as the cost of brake parts is cheap. I haven't used my brake lathe in years.

I used Wagner extreme duty on my 2500 HD and am impressed with the lesser brake pedal effort needed to stop the truck over stock GM pads. I won't use ceramics on anything they don't stop the vehicle like an aggressive pad will. I like friction material that wreaks havoc on the brake discs as we live in a high salt area and this helps to keep the discs clean.

Fred

 

[tcartwri]

I'm pretty sure there is a way without pulling the axles. Usually you can back off the e brakes to get it apart. I did have to beat off the rotors on my truck which ruined them.

Had to cut them off my Explorer with a zip disk. Which reminds me, I have to 'exercise' my e-brakes on the current truck...

 

[tcartwri]

dbl post fail...

 

[dodge man]

Often there is a star wheel inside the drum that backs off the e-brakes, just like the old drum setups, which is what they really are, a drum inside the disc.

There are still a lot of places that will turn rotors, its not that uncommon. I forget what the rear rotors were for the back of my Dodge but going on $100 each.

 

[tcartwri]

Often there is a star wheel inside the drum that backs off the e-brakes, just like the old drum setups, which is what they really are, a drum inside the disc.

There are still a lot of places that will turn rotors, its not that uncommon. I forget what the rear rotors were for the back of my Dodge but going on $100 each.

In my experience you can't back them off enough to get the rotor over the lip of corrosion that forms over time.

 

[dodge man]

In my experience you can't back them off enough to get the rotor over the lip of corrosion that forms over time.

That could be why I had to beat them of the back of my Ram with an 8 lb sledge.

 

[sld]

E-brakes are overrated.

 

[mjw357]

E-brakes are overrated.

I totally removed the e-brakes from my Titan. Useless, tiny little brake shoes. Don't know why they can't design an e-brake that uses the disk brakes to hold the vehicle? HD truck owners, are the rears on the one-ton trucks typically a disk or a big drum?

 

[LD1]

I have done many brake jobs on my vehicles and others, so I will offer up my :2cents:

For starters, I typically use the cheapest pads and rotors that the parts stores carry. (autozone or advance)

I just dont notice twice the life to justify twice the cost. And I can get 60-80k miles out if the cheap ones on the cars, and ~30k miles out of them on my truck, which sees a lot of towing and alot of plowing. And plowing is far harder on brakes than towing. LOTS of stop and go for not many miles racked up. Plus, it gets me in there more often to look at other things that tend to get neglected, like u-joints, ball joints, bearings, etc.

And even after 30k miles the rotors are difficult to remove. Not sure I would even want to wait any longer if a good set did indeed last 60 or 70k.

As to rotors, I always replace them. Just not worth the hassle not to. Buying cheap ones, they are darn near at minimum spec anyway. So turning is out. One time, Dad decided to put pads on his 1998 ram 1500 and not replace the rotors like I advised. They werent too warn, and smooth. After another 5k miles or so, the rotor split in two along the cooling fins. (inner surface broke loose from outer surface.)

I have NEVER had any issues with anything I got from autozone or advance. BUT I WILL avoid NAPA brakes like the plague. Everytime I have used them, the squeaking never stops. My 2001 saturn SL1 I put pads on about 3 years ago (55k miles). They still squeak and have since day 1.

Same story on my 2003 silverado when I had it. They squeaked from the day I put them on until the day I replaced them with duralast brakes.

 

[dodge man]

On my truck, a 3/4 ton Dodge, the rear brakes are discs and the e-brake is a drum brake inside the disc brake. On my truck the e-brake is pretty good sized and actually has some shoes with some thickness to them. It took a lot of work, cost and effort to get my e-brakes working, I'm not sure it was worth it but it does give some peace of mind.

 

[LD1]

On my truck, a 3/4 ton Dodge, the rear brakes are discs and the e-brake is a drum brake inside the disc brake. On my truck the e-brake is pretty good sized and actually has some shoes with some thickness to them. It took a lot of work, cost and effort to get my e-brakes working, I'm not sure it was worth it but it does give some peace of mind.

My 03 chevy 1500 had the same setup.

Never had to remove an axle.

I like the setup on my 1993 firebird a bit better. The park brake on them was a cable that actuated the caliper manually. So only one set of brake pads/linings and only set of brake surfaces. No drum inside the rotor hub..