brake pads 2012 f-150

   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #31  
I'm pretty sure there is a way without pulling the axles. Usually you can back off the e brakes to get it apart. I did have to beat off the rotors on my truck which ruined them.

Had to cut them off my Explorer with a zip disk. Which reminds me, I have to 'exercise' my e-brakes on the current truck...
 
   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #33  
Often there is a star wheel inside the drum that backs off the e-brakes, just like the old drum setups, which is what they really are, a drum inside the disc.

There are still a lot of places that will turn rotors, its not that uncommon. I forget what the rear rotors were for the back of my Dodge but going on $100 each.
 
   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #34  
Often there is a star wheel inside the drum that backs off the e-brakes, just like the old drum setups, which is what they really are, a drum inside the disc.

There are still a lot of places that will turn rotors, its not that uncommon. I forget what the rear rotors were for the back of my Dodge but going on $100 each.

In my experience you can't back them off enough to get the rotor over the lip of corrosion that forms over time.
 
   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #36  
E-brakes are overrated. :D
 
   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #37  
E-brakes are overrated. :D

I totally removed the e-brakes from my Titan. Useless, tiny little brake shoes. Don't know why they can't design an e-brake that uses the disk brakes to hold the vehicle? HD truck owners, are the rears on the one-ton trucks typically a disk or a big drum?
 
   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #38  
I have done many brake jobs on my vehicles and others, so I will offer up my :2cents:

For starters, I typically use the cheapest pads and rotors that the parts stores carry. (autozone or advance)

I just dont notice twice the life to justify twice the cost. And I can get 60-80k miles out if the cheap ones on the cars, and ~30k miles out of them on my truck, which sees a lot of towing and alot of plowing. And plowing is far harder on brakes than towing. LOTS of stop and go for not many miles racked up. Plus, it gets me in there more often to look at other things that tend to get neglected, like u-joints, ball joints, bearings, etc.

And even after 30k miles the rotors are difficult to remove. Not sure I would even want to wait any longer if a good set did indeed last 60 or 70k.

As to rotors, I always replace them. Just not worth the hassle not to. Buying cheap ones, they are darn near at minimum spec anyway. So turning is out. One time, Dad decided to put pads on his 1998 ram 1500 and not replace the rotors like I advised. They werent too warn, and smooth. After another 5k miles or so, the rotor split in two along the cooling fins. (inner surface broke loose from outer surface.)

I have NEVER had any issues with anything I got from autozone or advance. BUT I WILL avoid NAPA brakes like the plague. Everytime I have used them, the squeaking never stops. My 2001 saturn SL1 I put pads on about 3 years ago (55k miles). They still squeak and have since day 1.

Same story on my 2003 silverado when I had it. They squeaked from the day I put them on until the day I replaced them with duralast brakes.
 
   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #39  
On my truck, a 3/4 ton Dodge, the rear brakes are discs and the e-brake is a drum brake inside the disc brake. On my truck the e-brake is pretty good sized and actually has some shoes with some thickness to them. It took a lot of work, cost and effort to get my e-brakes working, I'm not sure it was worth it but it does give some peace of mind.
 
   / brake pads 2012 f-150 #40  
On my truck, a 3/4 ton Dodge, the rear brakes are discs and the e-brake is a drum brake inside the disc brake. On my truck the e-brake is pretty good sized and actually has some shoes with some thickness to them. It took a lot of work, cost and effort to get my e-brakes working, I'm not sure it was worth it but it does give some peace of mind.

My 03 chevy 1500 had the same setup.

Never had to remove an axle.

I like the setup on my 1993 firebird a bit better. The park brake on them was a cable that actuated the caliper manually. So only one set of brake pads/linings and only set of brake surfaces. No drum inside the rotor hub..
 

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