Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop

   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#121  
Had an idea this weekend and decided to give it a try. I removed the grate from the stove and put the cast iron skillet in the bottom of the stove and put the conical on two pieces of flat steel. The flat steel laid across the brackets that hold the grate. I set the conical on the flat steel and put the piece of my flue pipe around the conical. The conical is 6 inchs in diameter and the piece of flue pipe is 8 inchs in diameter. That is 1 inch of clearence between the two. What I did was put 4 ounces of kerosene in the skillet and lit it and turned the oil on. After about two minutes of the flame hitting the conical, the oil started boiling that was on it and started burning pretty good. What I did was turn the oil up so that some of it was dripping off the edge of the conical and falling into the skillet. This was helping the conical to have a higher temperture. At this time, I'm was still doing the down draft method. Which has a pipe right over the conical. This worked pretty good, but still had some smoke inside the stove and soot was forming on the skin of the stove inside surface. After about 10 minutes of doing this, I turned the oil down so that it wouldn't drip off the conical. I stuck a hair dryer inside of the draft down pipe that is right over the conical. This worked rather well (believe me, I was surprised it burned so well). I was able to turn the hair dryer up on high and also increase the oil flow. I was able to substain a clean burn (my jaw hit the floor with disbelief). I have a few pictures to show you guys. The only problem I had, was smoke, when I opened the door to take some pictures. Once the door was closed, the smoke cleared up inside the stove. Even though I had smoke while the door was open, no soot could be seen. I do have a furnace squirrel cage blower motor. But, here is the problem with it. It turns 3400 rpm's and when I put it inside of the draft pipe. It would blow the flame out. So, I looked into making it variable speed. Its a AC motor and it has magnets inside instead of brushs (most DC's motors have brushs). The way to regulate a magnetic motor is by using a invertor which is not cheap. It changes the frequency which allows you to vary the speed. There's more problems with variable speed AC motors that uses magnets, but I wont get into that. So, that is the reason I used a hair dryer. I wanted to do this before I go with the method of atomizing the oil with compressed air. So, before I start getting ideas of using compressed air (fitting and valves and all and setting it up for that), I'm going to start looking for a low amperage 115 volt DC motor that has a squirrel cage with it. And get a 100% variable speed controler (rotary switch). In the mean time, I would like to do another test using the AC blower motor. I'll put the blower back inside of the down draft pipe and I need to compress the air before it passes out of the pipe. One idea is making a funnel that will slip over the end of the down draft pipe that is inside of the stove (its over the conical). I think if I make the end of the funnel small enough (3/8" or 1/2"). The air coming out of the funnel will hopefully atomize the oil and allow it to burn cleaner. If this works like I think it will, this will give me an idea of how big of a 115Volt DC squirrel cage motor I will need. If my funnel idea doesn't work, I'm going to bite the bullet and move on to compressed air.
 

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   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #122  
LetsRoll, Can't you vary the speed of that motor with a motor controller (like a light dimmer but more HD) that varies the duty cycle of applied power. I use these on my custom range hood that is so powerful small children have to be weighted down to make them safe.

Pat
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #123  
I have a small squirrel cage motor that I use to blow heat from the wood stove downstairs up through ducting to vents upstairs. It was too much volume of air and too noisy, so I put a 600W lamp dimmer on it to turn it down. It has been working like that for four years now with no problems.

Just don't turn it down so low that the motor stops, or you'll risk burning out the motor. Any motor rated 3A or less should be able to run off a standard lamp dimmer.

Another option: get a cheap hair dryer. $13, and you know it works. They even use high temperature plastic, so you don't have to worry about the heat too much.
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #124  
Even if you don't want to use a dimmer or Motor contoller to slow the motor down wouldn't a flow restrictor plate (baffle) work? Just to put in my 2 cents worth which you are probably way ahead of me on. Is install a good Carbon Monoxide sensor in the shop. Don't use a Ionization Smoke alarm because you will get false triggers of the door opens and a bit of smoke gets out.
Awesome project though. I have been reading the whole thread. Wood is cheap for me so I have an old wood burner for the garage and one of those noisy old kerosend torpedo heaters. Here in the Seattle area a cold winter day is 35 degrees.
Jim
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#125  
Man O man, do I fill stupid. I got to thinking after Pat and BigE was talking about fan dimmer switchs and I looked inside of my blower. Low and behold, that there is what we call brushes. Thats not a magnet. This is a AC motor, but it has brushes. Now I fill stupid after posting about my blower having magnets in it and all this time testing my stove using the down draft method. I pulled a dimmer switch out of the wall in the house. Its rated up to 15 amps. After wiring it up and turning it on, kachooooow. I was able to vary the speed of the blower motor. Boy O boy, I'm a happy stupid camper. :rolleyes: I guess the switch I used before was not heavy enough. The switch that I put back into the wall in the house is rated to 15 amps and 600w. I'm going to locate another dimmer switch that I just tried out. Pat and BigE, you guys just saved me allot of time and money trying to locate a DC motor that has brushes in it. :D I'm going to try my local hardware store for a dimmer switch. My local contractor store supplied the dimmer switchs when I had my house built 5 years ago. Hopefully, they still carry the same one that I just tested out. I'll let you all know what I find. Thanks, Cliff
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#126  
Treemonkey1000 said:
Even if you don't want to use a dimmer or Motor contoller to slow the motor down wouldn't a flow restrictor plate (baffle) work? Just to put in my 2 cents worth which you are probably way ahead of me on. Is install a good Carbon Monoxide sensor in the shop. Don't use a Ionization Smoke alarm because you will get false triggers of the door opens and a bit of smoke gets out.
Awesome project though. I have been reading the whole thread. Wood is cheap for me so I have an old wood burner for the garage and one of those noisy old kerosend torpedo heaters. Here in the Seattle area a cold winter day is 35 degrees.
Jim
Thanks Jim, but after finding out about the switch I tried out before and the one I just tried. I'm going try this first. Compressed air was my next option.

Cliff
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #127  
LetsRoll - what you need is a piece of glass that you can temporarily stand in front of your open door so that the opening won't affect the draft. Then you can make adjustments for draft and also take pics while it burns.
The next time I burn my bottom feed setup I will try to take movies of the burn so you can see how the boiling oil emits the vapors that explode into bright white flames when the right amount of air is mixed in with it.
Donman
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #128  
I don't know a lot about these switches but when I tried to slow down a small blower with a light dimmer I didn't get much control. Full speed to off was about 1/8turn of the dimmer. After looking around in the store I found a no hum ceiling fan control. Worked perfectly. Also used one just like it on a range hood blower that is a squirrel cage type and pulls a good bit of juice.
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #129  
Here is a poor quality video of a burn that I took with my cell phone in movie mode of my bottom feed waste oil burner. I started out shooting the video thru a top 3/4 in. pipe plug hole and then moved to the air intake drop tube down the center of the heater. I apoligize for the loud clicking noises but if you turn the volumn up you can hear the oil boiling in the conical.
YouTube - Bottom feed waste oil burner
The center tube view blocks out the "flower of flames" that can be seen somewhat thru the pipe plug view. Notice the air baffle over the conical that I mentioned in an earlier post.
I will try to get a better pic sometime soon with my good camera.
Donman
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#130  
Berniep said:
I don't know a lot about these switches but when I tried to slow down a small blower with a light dimmer I didn't get much control. Full speed to off was about 1/8turn of the dimmer. After looking around in the store I found a no hum ceiling fan control. Worked perfectly. Also used one just like it on a range hood blower that is a squirrel cage type and pulls a good bit of juice.
Bernie, the switch that I used allowed me to vary the speed ranging from full power to almost very little air was coming out of the blower housing. The first dimmer switch that I tried, it wouldn't do nothing at all. Looking at Lowes website, the switch that I used suppresses the radio frequency. The other switch I think just lowers the voltage. Which is why it wouldn't do anything.
 

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