Bush hog blade stopping

[LD1]

Did you ever mention what model tractor it was? Perhaps someone may have some more model-specific info. But in general.....if the PTO slows down and the engine does NOT, then its probably not a simple or cheap repair.

 

[yanmars]

Actually this is my brother's tractor. Mine is awaiting an O ring and he is not using his and let me have it. It is a New Holland TC40.
He had lent it out and I talked to him today. The guy that used it, abused it and did no upkeep. I found out he bush hogged heavy stuff for hire and never paid my brother anything. Also bent the front bucket so badly it had to be rebuilt.
I now suspect that the hydro also is hurt. So in effect that still leaves me without a mowing tractor for the most part. Just hate it. As I was going to use his tractor I changed all fluids last fall, all filters, had the bucket fixed and the steering column etc. Thought that was only fair if I was going to use it. Did not know then the extent of the troubles it had.

 

[sunandsand]

This is why I keep a box of junk tools around. "Hey, can I borrow a screwdriver?" "Sure, take this one." If it comes back AT ALL, it will invariably be mangled beyond use but since it is a junk tool anyway, I don't worry about it and I still look like a good guy.

On the other hand, if someone tries to borrow something expensive, delicate, precision, irreplaceable, they have exactly ZERO chance of it taking away with them, and further requests will be responded to with meteor strikes - and that's my first response.

Do not lend tools, you will regret it. Every time.

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida

 

[WranglerX]

I do not rent out or loan tools or anything else because IF they come back they are usually broken... MY dad had a policy I grew up with, if you borrow something and you damage it you either had it repaired or you replaced it..... Great concept, except does not seem to work in this day in age....

 

[nyford1510]

Hi













































Hi
Have any of the previous commenters ever flipped over a bush hog to sharpen the blades. If they had they would not be making the
suggestions they made.
There is no direct connection of the pto shaft and motor to the blades. The blades spin freely on pins that are connected to a frame that is connected to the motor. On mowers the blades are connected directly to the motor with or without a clutch usually via belts. On a bush hog when the motor gets up to speed the frame holding the blades gets up to speed and the free spinning blades
spin due to centrifugal force. When your blades bog down and stop cutting the frame holding the blades is still spinning at the correct
speed, but the blades are stalling because of the heavy resistance
of the tall grass.
That is why it works fine in short grass.
The simple solution is to raise the bush hog up until it cuts and make a few passes progressively lowering the bush hog after each
complete pass.
If you doubt the veracity of my opinion just flip over the bush hog and see for your self.
While you are at it sharpen the blades with an angle grinder.
Dull blades are part of your problem.
Good luck .

 

[airbiscuit]

I suppose it is possible that in heavy grass the hinged blades swing back and don't cut well. I agree to sharpen the blades for grass. It will also help to adjust the mower so the rear end is elevated. This will make the discharge much more effecient.

 

[TerryR]

There is no direct connection of the pto shaft and motor to the blades. The blades spin freely on pins that are connected to a frame that is connected to the motor.

What???
The blades swing on an arm that is very directly connected to the PTO shaft. At operating speed centrifugal force keeps the blades extended so they are thus also directly connected to the PTO shaft. They only swing back if they hit something very sold, or if the rotational speed is seriously reduced, as when you shut off power or kill the engine.

 

[wpmlbg]

I think airbiscuit has the right idea. If the rear of the mower is lower than the front, the mower must cut everything twice. If you adjust the mower so the rear is at least the width of the blades higher than the front, it only has to cut the foliage once at the front. At the rear the blade will skim over the top of what the front just cut, making it easier on the whole set up. It's worth a try.

 

[nyford1510]

hi
I never said the blade swings back .I said it bogs down due to the heavy resistance of the tall grass. Once it bogs down if you continue on it cannot regain momentum and return to speed.

 

[nyford1510]

hi
I never said the blade swings back .I said it bogs down due to the heavy resistance of the tall grass. Once it bogs down if you continue on it cannot regain momentum and return to speed.

hi
Try only cutting 1/2 a bush hog width and see what happens.

 

[LD1]

Hi













































Hi
Have any of the previous commenters ever flipped over a bush hog to sharpen the blades. If they had they would not be making the
suggestions they made.
There is no direct connection of the pto shaft and motor to the blades. The blades spin freely on pins that are connected to a frame that is connected to the motor. On mowers the blades are connected directly to the motor with or without a clutch usually via belts. On a bush hog when the motor gets up to speed the frame holding the blades gets up to speed and the free spinning blades
spin due to centrifugal force. When your blades bog down and stop cutting the frame holding the blades is still spinning at the correct
speed, but the blades are stalling because of the heavy resistance
of the tall grass.
That is why it works fine in short grass.
The simple solution is to raise the bush hog up until it cuts and make a few passes progressively lowering the bush hog after each
complete pass.
If you doubt the veracity of my opinion just flip over the bush hog and see for your self.
While you are at it sharpen the blades with an angle grinder.
Dull blades are part of your problem.
Good luck .

Novel idea but incorrect in reality. When it comes to grass and vegetation, the blades might as well be solid and not swinging. They only allow a little swing to protect things if you hit a big rock, stump, chunk of concrete, etc.

And besides....IF that was the problem....he wouldnt notice the PTO shaft itself slowing down also

 

[airbiscuit]

Maybe try some of the suggestions put forward and report back.

 

[LD1]

hi
Try only cutting 1/2 a bush hog width and see what happens.

Will probably work just fine....but dont prove your theory. IT will only prove that the internal clutch on the tractor can handle mowing 2-1/2' of material without slipping but not 5'

 

[ruffdog]

A TC40D not being able to spin a 5' cutter in 2 ft grass? That ain't right. My TC33D did it fine. Either the free play adjustment on the clutch needs adjustment or the pivot shaft going into the case for the clutch is rusted so it acts like no free-play. If it is not fixed soon, that pto clutch will be cooked. A TC40D should cut 4' of grass with no problem.

 

[TerryR]

hi
I never said the blade swings back .I said it bogs down due to the heavy resistance of the tall grass. Once it bogs down if you continue on it cannot regain momentum and return to speed.

If the engine speed is not reduced, the blade cannot slow down unless something is broken. It is fixed mechanically to the PTO shaft.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Hydraulic pto will stop. You need to creep through the tall stuff. I worked at new holland for years as mechanic, snd kubota. Just slow down. Have sharp blades. Cheap bush hogs turn 1 1/2 to 1, good bush hogs 2 to 1. Always check that when buying one. Ive never ran a diesel 2500 rpm. 1800 is top for me, I go slower travel to make it work. I cut lots of hay and bush hog. Plus it all gets chicken litter on it, so it is thick. Got 110 round bales off of ten acres.

 

[ruffdog]

So no clutch peddle, instead, it is a hydraulically actuated multi-plate clutch. Hmm. It looks like the clutch was updated?

 

[ruffdog]

Reading material:

TC40D PTO loss of power

 

[airbiscuit]

From the TC40 PTO loss of power thread ...

Dave, the symptoms Nester describes fit perfectly for a worn/slipping PTO clutch. He should check his lever for full actuation and maybe even pull the access plate on the platform below the operator's seat to look at the hydraulic valve that actuates the clutch. Partial engagement of that valve could also cause slippage.

I think the PTO clutch will have to be renewed. It requires a tractor split to R&R that clutch/brake assy. The problem is removing the shaft that goes through the clutch. It has to come out of the front of the transmission and can only be removed with the tractor split. Sorry for the bad news.

 

[Tx Jim]

Hydraulic pto will stop. You need to creep through the tall stuff. Got 110 round bales off of ten acres.

IMHO & yrs of experience repairing/operating farm tractors if hyd actuated pto shaft speed slows in a greater % than engine speed drops or pto shaft stops while engaged then pto clutch/control valve needs attention.

Round bales come in many different widths/diameters/weights! what width/diameter/weight were your 110 rd bales?