Bush Hog razorback (Help?)

[mjncad]

Did you find any disintegrated bearing pieces in the bottom of the gearbox and underneath the cutter?

Based on the exploded view and shaft pictures, the new bearing will go on at Point 'A' on the shaft.

Take a look at your second picture in post 11, and is that a crack in the metal, or in any caked on dried up vegetation that may be there?

 

[TracTrac]

Looks like "B" is part of the old bearing. Make sure the shaft has no burrs, heat the old bearing race and it should come off with a little help. Place the shaft in the freezer before you install the new bearing. Also you can heat the new bearing a little to make things go easy. Don't over heat the new bearing or you could cause the steel to loose its temperament. Make sure the new bearings seat properly. New bearings do NOT like to be hammered.
Are your new bearings "Timken" brand. Reason I ask, I been reading that some of the china bearings have inferior steel. Make sure the inside of the housing does not have one speck of metel inside.
Do all bearings while your inside. Be careful with the seals. Apply a little grease to the seal so it does not start up dry.

Video of another app, YouTube - Inner Wheel Bearing Race Removal updated

 

[rtd2]

Did you find any disintegrated bearing pieces in the bottom of the gearbox and underneath the cutter?

Based on the exploded view and shaft pictures, the new bearing will go on at Point 'A' on the shaft.

Take a look at your second picture in post 11, and is that a crack in the metal, or in any caked on dried up vegetation that may be there?

Mjncad,
didnt find anything but the a chunk of metal picture in post #18 picture 2 I was afraid bearing went on point "A" and I think after doing some reading these gears are pressed on and I'm not too sure whats involed in pulling the gear off to get the new bearing into position "A". was hoping new bearing could slide up from the bottom!! I didnt see any cracks while removing Stump Jumper but noticed there was a lot of deep gouges, dirt, vegetation,ect. I will double check that...btw I agree 100% with your union and Lawyer statements !:thumbsup:

Looks like "B" is part of the old bearing. Make sure the shaft has no burrs, heat it the old bearing race and it should come off with a little help. Place the shaft in the freezer before you install the new bearing. Also you can heat the new bearing a little to make things go easy. Don't over heat the new bearing or you could cause the steel to loose its temperament. Make sure the new bearings seal properly. New bearings do NOT like to be hammered.
Are your new bearings "Timken" brand. Reason I ask, I been reading that some of the china bearings have inferior steel. Make sure the inside of the housing does not have one speck of metel inside.
Do all bearings while your inside. Be careful with the seals. Apply a little grease to the seal so it does not start up dry.

Video of another app, YouTube - Inner Wheel Bearing Race Removal updated

TracTrac,
you guessed it on the bearings.... thanks for the heads up. Thanks for the how-to on the housing and bearings and the link. Great info!!! This site is a great resource and I always wont to DIY *if I know how or in my ability to learn! Aside from getting the Gear off with out damaging it. I've learned enough here i'm 99% ready to attempt new bearings/seal so i can get cutting before the grass takes off! thanks again to all who have taken the time to respond and feel free to chime with any further advice (especially getting gear off )

 

[mjncad]

Mjncad,
btw I agree 100% with your union and Lawyer statements !:thumbsup:

LOL...right now lawyers are #1 on my $h!t list, and watching the Wisconsin stuff just made me shake my head at what part of broke don't they understand.

We now return you to our regularly scheduled thread.

 

[Mock1]

I would be worried about the radial crack on the gear housing. Shaft looks very pitted also. Check the gear faces and bearing fits for sure. If you know someone with a press it will make you life so much easier. Be sure how to set up up a cup and cone bearing before you attempt this repair.

 

[rtd2]

I would be worried about the radial crack on the gear housing. Shaft looks very pitted also. Check the gear faces and bearing fits for sure. If you know someone with a press it will make you life so much easier. Be sure how to set up up a cup and cone bearing before you attempt this repair.

Mock1,
thanks for the tips. I dont have a press and to be honest with you getting it a part to inspect was one thing.... getting the new missing part(s) back in correctly is another! thats why i turned to you guys! I've learned a lot here (not just about this problem) but I'm somewhat second guessing my self on trying to fix it, so I'm thinking about ordering a bearing/seal kit but who local could fix it? Machine shop? tractor sales/service?? any thoughts....also Any idea a fair cost to repair if i supply the bearings? thanks again for getting me this far everyone!! :thumbsup:

 

[rtd2]

Guys you've helped me more than you know but if I may ask 1 more question before let this thread die *if I cant get the original gearbox fixed... would one of the $199-259 universal 40hp gearboxes I've seen online (Pict. Below) work on my BH model 12 deck? anything in particular I should look for? the decks still real solid on my BH so I would like to use it. I assume I would need to remove Lower Housing? reconfig supports? also would I be able to use my existing stump Jumper? Its NOT splined but smooth and has a shear key slot.I've seen several of these Gear boxes with smooth output shafts but do the use a shear key or do the make an adaptor? thanks all who helped...:thumbsup: