Buying Advice BX2360 vs B2620

   / BX2360 vs B2620 #31  
GPintheMitten said:
I've only run a post hole digger with a Ford 2N, so someone else will have to chime in on post hole digging issues for BX and Bxx20. I just know that I had height issues with the 3pt geometry on the digger I had. You need to get one to fit your tractor and vise versa.

I run a Danhuser F8 I borrowed from my dad on my B2620. Works great. Only issue is that when transporting the tip is close to the ground. Maybe about six inches of clearance. Keep in mind, this is their big model. My dad ran it on his 4010 JD. I figure if I can run this thing, clearance won't be an issue on a B series with most of the others.
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #32  
I agree with BP. Your dealer is confused with his advise concerning the B2320. I'm convinced the BX or the B2320 either one will do the jobs you want done and both will do even more than you've specified.
I've used a Post hole digger on my Bs and the same post hole digger on my BX and my nephew has a BX2360 and he used my PHD on his BX. It was a Taylor Way that I bought from Barlows. It will ride close to the ground on the BX but will dig the same on either machine. The bit can be pulled forward and tied to the back of the tractor for a bit better traveling ground clearance on either machine.
I'm not a bigger is better guy. I've went up the size chart and have came back down to my current "herd" which are actually smaller. But I'm a believer that the "first" tractor is just for testing to determine your actual needs plus needs change so stop sweating this purchase decision. Trade with Barlows and in a year or two just keep what you have or have them come pick it up while bringing your actually needed tractor. It's really easy and simple to do.:) I've had them deliver to me 13 times and 5 of them have stuck, one is totally paid for and the other four will one day be paid off, getting closer every day. Don't know what I'll do then because I'm pretty satisfied with what I currently have except for the gear drive on the B2320, may one day have them pick it up and drop off a B2320 HST.
Why are you not comparing the BX2660 vs the B2620? They are the competing B to BX tractors. Your going up in size tractor from BX to B and going up one more step in HP thus the $3000 difference. There will be very little difference monthly between the B2320 and the BX2360 and I'm not pushing one over the other.
As some have told you before, go spend time riding around on both size tractors and see which one gives you that warm fuzzy feeling. That's the biggest difference because I believe either one will perform all the functions you've mentioned and just about equally. Do you know who Tim the Toolman is?:D When those of us that do sit on a BX we feel good but when we sit on a higher riding tractor we grin more. A real (per Tim the Toolman) tractor requires a ladder to get up on the seat and no, I've never owned one of Tims "real" tractors and probably never will like Triple R who's or high riding tractor Guru.:D He also owns BXs.;)
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #33  
JT, it was the salesman who did the comparing between the two tractors. This is what salesmen do.

Since he's only got the B2620 and he's obviously got some BX2360's to sell, he artificially setup this comparison and $3K spread because that is what he has in stock. Running down another in-between option? Saying "Oh, we never stock those".

To me? That just isn't great salesmanship. That's a guy selling what's on his lot and only what on his lot instead of truly trying to help Susan, the OP, judge honestly among all the offerings Kubota shows in this range. Nothing mentioned of the BX2660 either.

Maybe we're being too hard on the guy, but I don't think so. Sounds like salesman talk to me, and I am rarely amused by that sort of thing. I dunno.
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #34  
I bought a B2920 about 4 years ago, but also looked at the BX series. Some of the reasons I went for the small B are:
3 range HST. The mid range is where you will spend most of your time, but you still have the high range to get you to the other end of the property quicker if you want to and occasionally the low range for digging.
Foldable ROPS - If you are going under a lot of limbs, you can drop them or put them at the 3/4 position. The BX has fixed ROPS.
Real Tachometer - The B has an analog dedicated tach. The BX uses the digital hour meter when the engine is running.
Lift of 3 pt hitch - 24" behind pins, the B lifts 1058 lb, the BX lifts 670 lb.
Height of 3 pt hitch - The B will use standard Cat 1 implements. Because of the lift height the BX will be more limited, but there are implements designed for subcompact tractors.
Engine Size - The B uses a larger engine to achieve the same horse power allowing it to operate at lower RPM to do the same work. For most work other than using the PTO (such as mowing), you can do it with the RPM below 2K. Much easier on the ears and nerves if nothing else. The tractor will go and you can operate the FEL or 3 pt hitch at dead idle. The BX achieves it HP by reving a smaller engine higher. You have to rev it up significantly higher to do anything with it.
Bigger Tires - Give you a smoother ride on rough ground than smaller tires.
FEL - The standard FEL on the B2620 lifts 951lb. at pins to a height of 78.6" vs the BX2360 lifts 745lb to 71.3".

In the end, either will probably do the job for you and give you years of service. To me the price difference was easily worth it, but only you can decide which best fits your needs. Both handle very easily and can work in tight quarters. Good luck on making your choice.
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #35  
My Kubota dealer doesn't stock or like the 2320 either -- he considers it a "bastard" model (his words, not mine). I was shopping the 2320/2620/2920, and his attitude was to go with a BX if I wanted something smaller, or jump straight to the 2620/2920. At the time, that fit into the mold of what everyone else was telling me, to go a little bigger than I thought.

Of course, that gets you into a bit of an upward spiral. I liked the 2620, but decided for $700 more, the extra HP of the 2920 would be good to have (there are many reasons I feel this way). That put me within a few hundred bucks of the B3200. But I said whoa at the 2920, and it's been ideal.
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #36  
One additional thought is related to the mower choice. Most of the B models and all of the BX models use a 1/4" valve to control the raising of the 3 pt hitch. For me it works fine for most applications. Very smooth to operate. But it will not hold an implement at a set height for a prolonged period of time. Mine will drop about 3/4" in ten minutes with my box blade on the tractor. This really only bothers me when I use my brush hog type mower. The brush hog (rotary) mowers have just one wheel in the back and the front is held up with the 3 pt hitch. So it is like pushing a wheel barrow and your arms get tired. As you mow, you have to remember to occasionally bump up the 3 pt hitch or the front of the mower is dragging on the ground.

If you are not going to be mowing brush or clearing sappling, running over rocks, etc, and mowing on a reasonably frequent basis, say once a month, you might want to consider a rear finish mower (RFM). They have wheels on all 4 corners, so you just set them on the ground and go. The mowing height is adjusted by how you set the wheels, not where you set the 3 pt hitch. You could also consider a flail mower which rides on the ground on skids and can cut heavier material than an RFM, but they are usually more expensive. A B2620 should pretty easily handle a 5' RFM. It is basicly the same as the MMM, except it is behind the tractor instead of under it. The RFM would also be safer for operating near animal or people as it is much less likely to throw thing it runs over compared to a rotary mower.
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #37  
I will tell you right up front that I am not a BX fan. That said, the B's are just plain more tractor. Bigger displacement engine, tougher hydrostatic unit with a dedicated oil cooler in front of the radiator instead of the 'stick' prone fan on the BX. The engine is facing the right way so the radiator is on the front making it less prone to plugging. Higher ground clearance which if you are doing anything in the woods you will notice even an inch of clearance let alone 3-4". You can get a lot more capable loaders plus you can add the quick attach feature to the B loaders. Higher capacity 3pt. I could go on but my brain is tired now:laughing:
Good luck with your decision making. The real fun part is using what you buy and I think it is JT that always says that trading up or down is real easy.:D
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620
  • Thread Starter
#38  
You guys are great, love all the comments and experienced advice.

JT - I contacted Barlow's today, it's a game changer.

Will let you know...
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #39  
My Kubota dealer doesn't stock or like the 2320 either -- he considers it a "bastard" model (his words, not mine). I was shopping the 2320/2620/2920, and his attitude was to go with a BX if I wanted something smaller, or jump straight to the 2620/2920. At the time, that fit into the mold of what everyone else was telling me, to go a little bigger than I thought.

Of course, that gets you into a bit of an upward spiral. I liked the 2620, but decided for $700 more, the extra HP of the 2920 would be good to have (there are many reasons I feel this way). That put me within a few hundred bucks of the B3200. But I said whoa at the 2920, and it's been ideal.

Salesmen are entitled to their own opinion and dealers have a right to stock whatever they wish. Nothing scientific, but even a casual reader here knows that there are one heck of a lot of very happy B2320 owners on this site, folks who weighed the whole range of BX and B models and made their choice intelligently, at an attractive price point. Just as those who chose a BX or a larger B model did, I'm sure.

When I was shopping for mine and if I had run into a salesman with an attitude like that he'd have lost my sale. I'd have just gone down the road to the next Orange dealer and spent my money there. Makes no never mind to me.
 
   / BX2360 vs B2620 #40  
KU Gator, you should try using check chains w/your brush hog. Set it and forget it :D

susogoatfarm, I maintain alittle over 4 acres w/a BX23 and no doubt it'll do what you need but, ain't there always buts :D , if you plan on doing more than finish mowing a small B will probably work out better for you.
Likes been posted, don't base your decision on price alone. Theres nothing worse than having to live w/something that doe'n;t do the job as well as you need it too......
(Unless you like to trade like John T :D )

An old rule of thumb that still apllies today.
1) if finish mowing is primary and material handling/ground engagement type tasks are secondary, go w/a BX
2) if material handling/ground enagement type tasks are primary and finish mowing is secondary, go w/a B.

As been posted, the smallest B, the B2320 is physically smaller than the B2620 but is just slightly "bigger" than the BX but, you get more "everything" in that B2320 pkg over the BX except the BX's better finish mowing performance.

Since you're going to shop Barlows, you'll also have some leverage to get a competitive deal on a B2320 from your local dealer too.

btw, the B2620 is considered the sweet spot on the small basic B series....

Good luck
Dave
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

INOP/NON-RUNNING 2007 Kenworth T800 Truck, VIN # 1NKDX0EX87J172444 (A44391)
INOP/NON-RUNNING...
Countyline 3pt 5' Finish Mower (A44502)
Countyline 3pt 5'...
2015 Ford Taurus SEL Sedan (A44572)
2015 Ford Taurus...
Swict 84" Bucket (A44502)
Swict 84" Bucket...
6'x8'x3/4" Bolt on cutting edges (A42203)
6'x8'x3/4" Bolt on...
Wanco W|ECO Folding Traffic Arrow Board S/A Towable Trailer (A44571)
Wanco W|ECO...
 
Top