BX25 ALTERNATOR UPGRADE

[Artisan]

Wanting to self recover is the task plus power accessories. I have a winch that is portable
mounted to my trailer w/ a 2" receiver.I will have front and rear 2" receivers soon.
the winch, It is a 9000# NorthernTool Special.

The specs say it needs a 650CCA battery minimun, I read to not have
a minimum CCA battery will cause ALT failure.

So the purpose is ocassional use for the winch and lighting and a full
set of gerbings heated clothing in the winter and my radio. Heck
if I can't find a 650CCA battery to stuff into the 7" x 9" x 9" BX25
battery hole I might consider a battery isolator deal and make a battery
holder hung off the trailer hitch , front, or rear. I need to add ballast anyways.

For alls I know I do not need a bigger ALT, trying to learn but
I was born w/ an Electrical Defficiency..I am HORRIBLE at electricity,
I do not savvy... If I had the coin I would pay for a resolve, I do not.


If I hung a nice beefy maybe 870CCA battery someplace and installed
a battery isolator deal for two battery charging, is that a proper resolve
and keep the 40AMP Alt?

I think the tach is electronic. Guess I need ot buy a WSM and get
a schematic, not like I will understand it but maybe get lucky!

THANK YOU for the input.

 

[Artisan]

Atrisan, according to my BX25 WSM the blue lead "is a lead to transmit the pulse from the alternator to hour meter and tachometer." The White/Red lead goes to the charge lamp, the Red/Yellow lead goes to ground. I hope this helps! Keep up the good work - I enjoy following your projects and learning from you.

That will definately be of some help .

Thank YOU!

 

[radioman]

Artisan --- dont forget one thing. in the DC world within automotives, the battery is basically a "buffer" or a capacitor . If you are using the radio, wipers, lights on the car,electricity for spark plugs- it first draws from battery LEADS. I capitalize leads because, if the battery is already charged up- the regulator FOR alternator (again FOR means can be built in or mounted somewhere else in the positive power upstream) will stop putting in full amperage and gives power to everything else.

Your diesel engine once started will not be pulling any power from battery as you already know that there no spark plug so no power is being robbed. If your winch starts "overdrawing" the wattage higher then the alternator, the battery will kick in. I highly doubt you will run your winch constantly for over 15 mins at a time or more. When you stop using the winch - just as you suspect the battery will start charging. If you have a cheap battery , the plates will warp. A good heavy duty battery have thicker plates inside and can handle the high charging and discharging cycles.

thinking out loud. I am wondering if you might want to take a step back and rethink this. I dont seem to recall if you have a MMM ? IF not and you dont plan to have one, wouldn't it be easier to add on a second alternator running off the mid mount pto? mid pto runs at engine speeds hydraulically. You would only need to run it if your power needs/usage exceeds the "constant" draw you might use? If you install an identical stock alternator - it would be super cool to have a backup part to swap if your primary alt fails.
If you still prefer to swap out to high amperage alt, then so be it -- then go ahead and do that- I'm all for it. your project has me intrigued and would be helpful to many if you find a way to make a pigtail adapter from BX25/24 wiring to upgraded alternator wiring.

On the other hand- have you looked at BX23 dynamo alt upgrades ? they have kits with wiring I think. I just dont recall the type of connectors it used. (before you get your hopes up- BX23 amps upgrade wont be higher then stock BX24/25's.

 

[Notforhire]

I dont seem to recall if you have a MMM ? IF not and you dont plan to have one, wouldn't it be easier to add on a second alternator running off the mid mount pto? mid pto runs at engine speeds hydraulically.

If you have a mid PTO why are you fooling around with an electric winch? Run a gear winch off the PTO and forget about the battery supply problems.

Bill

 

[Artisan]

If you have a mid PTO why are you fooling around with an electric winch? Run a gear winch off the PTO and forget about the battery supply problems.

Bill

Bill I have another thread called "BX25 Mid PTO or BUST" I think it is.
I have not "bust'd" nor shelved that idea yet, just a FYI deal. Additionally
I want to be able to plug the winch into the front OR the rear.

Thank YOU !

 

[Artisan]

Artisan --- dont forget one thing. in the DC world within automotives, the battery is basically a "buffer" or a capacitor . If you are using the radio, wipers, lights on the car,electricity for spark plugs- it first draws from battery LEADS. I capitalize leads because, if the battery is already charged up- the regulator FOR alternator (again FOR means can be built in or mounted somewhere else in the positive power upstream) will stop putting in full amperage and gives power to everything else.

Your diesel engine once started will not be pulling any power from battery as you already know that there no spark plug so no power is being robbed. If your winch starts "overdrawing" the wattage higher then the alternator, the battery will kick in. I highly doubt you will run your winch constantly for over 15 mins at a time or more. When you stop using the winch - just as you suspect the battery will start charging. If you have a cheap battery , the plates will warp. A good heavy duty battery have thicker plates inside and can handle the high charging and discharging cycles.

thinking out loud. I am wondering if you might want to take a step back and rethink this. I dont seem to recall if you have a MMM ? IF not and you dont plan to have one, wouldn't it be easier to add on a second alternator running off the mid mount pto? mid pto runs at engine speeds hydraulically. You would only need to run it if your power needs/usage exceeds the "constant" draw you might use? If you install an identical stock alternator - it would be super cool to have a backup part to swap if your primary alt fails.
If you still prefer to swap out to high amperage alt, then so be it -- then go ahead and do that- I'm all for it. your project has me intrigued and would be helpful to many if you find a way to make a pigtail adapter from BX25/24 wiring to upgraded alternator wiring.

On the other hand- have you looked at BX23 dynamo alt upgrades ? they have kits with wiring I think. I just dont recall the type of connectors it used. (before you get your hopes up- BX23 amps upgrade wont be higher then stock BX24/25's.

I do not use the MMM or the Mid PTO "yet" . I want to leave it for other uses if I can.
I will step back in a heart beat if I figure out the right thing to do and again, I am
wondering if I shouldn't just make a battery holder that fits into a 2" receiver and
get a battery charging isolator going. Just forget the wiring for now...What if I
had a front AND rear 2" trailer Hitch Receiver. Now I have a portable winch
that plugs into said receiver(s) so I can put the winch in the front, OR in the rear.
NOW what if I have a propery sized maybe 870 AMP battery and I make a
holder for it that will plug into a 2" receiver as well? I need ballast anyways, front
and rear. So I could put the battery up front and the winch at the rear
or vice versa! (and make a jumper cable from the battery charging isolator perhaps)
Silly? maybe...but I will LOVE the outcome and depriving a towtruck operator
of my money is a priority!

Lets forget about wiring for now. Well, I could make a temp Jumper that will reach front
OR rear as I need it, keep it stod maybe. If that is A-OK to do and if my 40AMP ALT will handle
that I will shelf the upgraded ALT idea. I hope I didn't "muddle" things HA!

PS, THANK YOU for the input!

 

[David_Kb7uns]

IG is ignition switch
L is indicator light
P is ...see page 2 on the link below

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...sg=AFQjCNEuaJmKaTPBRsjKAhcrEUSmnKSyXQ&cad=rja

Bruce

Will since the P is phase signal and these tractors have a tach standard now, I bet that this is the signal use to tell the tach what speed the engine is running at and it must have a multiplier for ratio between tach signal and crankshaft rpm. So if you change to a different alternator without the P signal you will most likely loose the tach function.

David Kb7uns

 

[Artisan]

Thank You Kb7uns....

 

[Artisan]

I think I found a bolt-in 60AMP, same plug, same frame, (well the bracketry side) alternator :hyper:

I questions things to the enith degree at times...I
certainly would not want to be accused of "muddleing" things
up so I will retain the info till I am a little more sure.
I think I even found it Aftermarket for less than 90 BUX too! :devil:

 

[RobertN]

I would start with a GOOD starter/alternator shop. We have a couple good ones in Sacramento who deal with this, or customize one to meet your amperage needs. You're in the LA area; there must be some good alternator/starter shops down there...

You could always do like on the old Ford N series with a 12V conversion; use one of the single wire alternators from a small bloch Chevy. I did that on my old Jeep; put a 110A alternator on it. Would not be that hard to adapt, unless it fouls up your tach signal as discussed earlier... There are aftermarket one wire alternators made just for the 4-wheel crowd to work with winching applications too... Some are made to have high power at lower rpms.

If you plan to winch much, I would get a second battery, made for winching. Check out 4wheelparts.com From expierience out Jeeping and friends with winches, I'd start with an Optima. You really don't want to kill the main battery while winching, and then be dead in the water.

while you're at it, you could fab some brackets and mount an AC compressor too. It's easy, and common, to convert those for use as on-board air compressors...That is what my BIL runs on his CJ7...