cedar strip canoe

[Danno1]

I am not using any staples so i can only do a few strips a night and then i have to wait for the glue to dry. If I was using a staples i could keep progressing as the staples hold everything in place while it dries.

You only build it once, but have look at it for years. You will be very glad you skipped the staples when you see the finished product.

I used staples on mine and don't really like the look of it!



.

 

[Danno1]

So did I understand correctly that the final strips are 3/4" X 1/4"?

Yes.


.

 

[stratton]

Thanks for the info. I appreciate the build even more knowing that you made all the strips yourself, too.

So did I understand correctly that the final strips are 3/4" X 1/4"?

yes correct. the walls of the boat will be 1/4" thick with out sanding or fiberglass. and of course the strips would be 3/4" high or tall. my plans call for 3/16" width. They say that the strength doesnt really come from the cedar but the fiberglass. 3/16" seems like i would come to close to sanding through it. I dont want to take any chances with my first boat. If I do another boat i will make that one an ultralight and go for the weight saving methods, like no stems and slimmer strips. maybe do one coat of resin less then a great finish. That also saves some weight. But you might still see the grid texture of the fiberglass.

 

[stratton]

Sometimes the staple holes can add to the finished look.

If you or anyone has pictures of the bottom of your canoe could you post them. I am having a hard time visualizing how the strips come into the bottom of the front. I know the very bottom of the stem gets a knife edge but i cant see how the strips fade into it and how they transition to the outer stem.

My set of plans are 95 pages thick and not one picture or explanation on how to do this.

 

[Depmandog]

If anyone is interested, the KC Craigslist has a gentleman who has a 1982 17' 4"cedar strip canoe with the outside sanded down for sale, with title, for less than $400. Needs a bit more sanding, then re-glassed. He has not sanded the interior.

Personally I think this is a good deal. I am not interested - as I have way too many projects started - but for anyone in the area that wanted one - here's your chance. I don't know the guy. Pics on the site.

This has been a public service announcement by ME!

 

[stratton]

[/IMG]

A view of the bead and cove. Once all the strips are on they will get cut back to the inner stem.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Sometimes the staple holes can add to the finished look.

If you or anyone has pictures of the bottom of your canoe could you post them. I am having a hard time visualizing how the strips come into the bottom of the front. I know the very bottom of the stem gets a knife edge but i cant see how the strips fade into it and how they transition to the outer stem.

My set of plans are 95 pages thick and not one picture or explanation on how to do this.

Since I saw your first post, I've been googling cedar strip canoe. Here are a few pictures I found a few days ago. It looks like there are a few ways to do it. Maybe these will help.

 

[dmccarty]

IPlayFarmer,

Thanks for posting the photos. I was really curious on how the bottom of the canoe was finished off. I was thinking it would be better to start at the center bottom of the canoe and work out. I like how the bottom of the last canoe looks. I would think that would be easier to do but I wonder if it makes a difference at all durability/strength wise.

The canoes are too pretty to put in the water where they might hit a rock. Maybe in FLA where most lakes do not have rocks.

Later,
Dan

 

[Danno1]

My set of plans are 95 pages thick and not one picture or explanation on how to do this.

Ouch!!!

Buy the book Building a woodstrip canoe by Ted Moores. Avail fr Wooden Boat bookstore. Lots of good info and pics.


.

 

[Army grunt]

tHE END VIEW SHOWES HOW THE CONCAVE AN CONVEX CUTS GO TOGETHER.rEALLY NEAT i NEVER NEW HOW THEY DID THAT.
Army Grunt