Chain pitch (size) differences.

[BufordBoone]

Newbury: Madsen's guide bar and saw chain menu? That's GOLD right there. What a great learning resource. I also appreciate all the advice, from everyone.

I have little knowledge of chainsaws but want to learn. I'm also very respectful of their danger. I wear wrap around chaps and ear/eye protection.

I would guess that I've got 25-50 more trees that might be in danger. Don't know the DBH but would guess it to be between 16 and 20 inches.

FWIW, the reason I'm cutting them now is that I just got a stump grinder (you can see review in the attachments thread). I had a friend take down 11 trees last winter, a tree crew take down 15 this summer. The crew cut the stumps to about 6-10" above the ground. My friend cut them about 3' off the ground.

I could hire someone to come down and do it but, like hiring stumps ground, would be money gone with no future capability.

The stump grinder was heavily researched and some of the best money I've spent. I'd like to be as happy with whatever saw I might purchase.

Thanks, again, to all.

 

[JD5210]

Smoking means the chain was dull, independent of the cutter type. When sharp, RM should fly through locust (it does for me).

The chain was NEW and the locust trees had been dead for sometime.

 

[newbury]

Just one more note to add for the OP -
Also consider getting a battery operated 40V chainsaw for those little jobs. I bought a B&D 40v for a little over $100 w/ battery & charger. I often get a few limbs down during storms, usually < 6" around.
To put them out on the curb they must be < 4' long.
The little saw is ideal for this application. Grab it, check oil and chain, don't worry about starting it.

 

[CobyRupert]

I think the bottom line is that cutting stumps is tough on a saw, bar, and chain, as well as the user. Bigger saws are a lot harder to handle. Smaller saws don't have the guts. Getting the saw power head close to the ground compromises air flow and cooling. It's really just a lousy job all the way around and there is no silver bullet (other than stump grinder or backhoe).

:thumbsup: And the dirt, pebbles, rocks one encounters too -No matter how careful you are trying to clean around it. As some mentioned, often embedded in the bark at that level.
Then there's the chips and saw dust that piles up at the saw and can clog everywhere, compromise cooling, etc..because you're so low to the ground.
On bigger stumps it's handy to use a (plastic) cutting wedge, or two, to prop the stump up so it doesn't pinch your bar as you get farther through it.

If I'm cutting down (or cutting up?) a tree, cutting the stump is the last cut of the day because I know there's a good chance my chain might be done for the day afterwards.

File often.

 

[BufordBoone]

Thanks for all the help.

Based on your input and the way I was treated at the dealer, I went with the Husky 455 Rancher.

Fired it up, cut the stumps I needed to cut. Chain still seems sharp. Ground the stumps and everyone is happy.

I know it is not a "pro saw" but I'm not a "pro".

I'm very impressed with the way it cut.

Thanks, again, for all your input.

Life, indeed, is good.

 

[Egon]

I have a Husky 55. Serves me well.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

I've tried several brands of chain in sizes from a 10" bar to a 42" bar and found that Stihl brand chain was "harder". It didn't dull as quickly and required more effort to sharpen.

Same here. I run Huskys, but Stihl chain. It holds the edge better. I don't mind a little more sharpening effort.

 

[Bud Soda]

Husky 450. My little buddy can do more with one nut than some could do with three.

 

[4570Man]

Not sure what that's supposed to mean. If you had a 3120xp I'd agree.

 

[stuckmotor]

I think the bottom line is that cutting stumps is tough on a saw, bar, and chain, as well as the user. Bigger saws are a lot harder to handle. Smaller saws don't have the guts. Getting the saw power head close to the ground compromises air flow and cooling. It's really just a lousy job all the way around and there is no silver bullet (other than stump grinder or backhoe).

I think s219 is correct. I have many 4" to 6" trees that I need to cut low to the ground in a severely overgrown pasture. Has anyone tried a carbide chain for cuttng close to the ground. I'd be interested in knowing how well it worked out.

 

[4570Man]

Based on what I've heard they're never as sharp as a steel chain and can't be sharpened without sending it back to the factory. I talked to a guy that had one and he said it would cut 5 rick before it was dull and cost him $20 to have it sharpened. I wasn't impressed. My steel chain cuts that much wood between sharpening it and it can be replaced for $20.

 

[TomSeller]

Same here. I run Huskys, but Stihl chain. It holds the edge better. I don't mind a little more sharpening effort.

I got a tour of the Oregon/Carlton saw chain factories near Portland Oregon once by the plant managers. I asked the Carlton manager if his saw chain was as good as Stihl's. He said no, that they use more chromium. They made Carlton, Homelite and a few other brands in that plant. I think Oregon was made separate in the other plant, but my memory could be wrong. Very interesting. Probably all made in China now.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

I think s219 is correct. I have many 4" to 6" trees that I need to cut low to the ground in a severely overgrown pasture. Has anyone tried a carbide chain for cuttng close to the ground. I'd be interested in knowing how well it worked out.

Based on what I've heard they're never as sharp as a steel chain and can't be sharpened without sending it back to the factory.

No, it can be done by anybody with a diamond wheel and the right machine. My local saw shop can do it. If you wanted to spend the bucks, you could do it yourself. It's not worth it, in my book. Like you said, you can buy a new steel chain for the cost of one sharpening.



I bought some of Carlton's carbide impregnated chain, which I can't find online anymore. Instead of the carbide insert welded to the steel link, it had splinters of carbide somehow impregnated into the tooth. Sharpened with an ordinary wheel. Don't think a file would touch it, though.

I got it to cut some railroad ties. Waste of money. Once you hit one of those embedded stones in the tie, you are done.

I sharpened it up and used it on regular firewood. Again, not impressed. But then, I don't know how that stuff would really compare to the full carbide chain.

I've heard the same as 4570man. It's never as sharp, and it's a bear to sharpen. I think it's probably best reserved for specialized use where you are cutting into something abrasive that would chew up a steel chain.

 

[LD1]

I think the only practice use for the carbide tipped chain is fire and rescue

 

[ArlyA]

I'll agree with you. We considered a carbide tipped chain since we dull our chains rather quickly working in the dirt. (we clear and maintain XC trails) After checking on price and cost of resharpening carbide tipped ones, we decided they'd not be cost effective.

I think the only practice use for the carbide tipped chain is fire and rescue

 

[stuckmotor]

Thanks, to all who commented on the carbide chain. It often pays to ask ahead of buying.

 

[TomSeller]

I have never worried much about the chain configuration on my saws. I just keep them as sharp as can be and they cut plenty fast. I more worry about preventing kickback and being safe.