Chain Saw Question

Richard · Jun 7, 2006

Only related to this topic as it's about chainsaws, but when I buy my gallon jugs of chain oil, I don't remove the paper seal that is under the lid.

I take a screwdriver and poke a hole in it. By doing this, I have a SMALL opening and can control the flow of oil out of the bottle a LOT better without it overfilling my saw and (gasp) get it dirty /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

After all, what good is a chain saw if it's dirty /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously though, if you open your jug and use a funnel/other... you might try this. Works like a charm for me.

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Richard · Jun 7, 2006

Only related to this topic as it's about chainsaws, but when I buy my gallon jugs of chain oil, I don't remove the paper seal that is under the lid.

I take a screwdriver and poke a hole in it. By doing this, I have a SMALL opening and can control the flow of oil out of the bottle a LOT better without it overfilling my saw and (gasp) get it dirty /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

After all, what good is a chain saw if it's dirty /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously though, if you open your jug and use a funnel/other... you might try this. Works like a charm for me.

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Bob_Young · Jun 7, 2006

If you have a Dremel tool, PM, you might be able to salvage a few of those 'bent' chains.

I've had chains pop off of my Dolmar a few times from running too loose. Like you've experienced, they didn't fit back into the groove on the bar and couldn't be used afterward.

I took a close look at them and could see and feel burrs on the drive links (the part that rides in the groove) on part of the chain. I figure it was the part that was going over the drive sprocket when the chain came off...but who knows.

Anyhow, since they were junk anyway, I went to work on one of them with a Dremel tool using a fine grinding stone. I could feel the troublemakers with my finger and just trimmed away the burr with the tool. Once all the bad links were cleaned up, I put the chain back on the saw and it ran fine. You may want to try this before tossing all those chains.

If you've got physically bent links, then obviously this approach won't work. None of the chains that came off my saw appeared to be bent.
Bob

Bob_Young · Jun 7, 2006

If you have a Dremel tool, PM, you might be able to salvage a few of those 'bent' chains.

I've had chains pop off of my Dolmar a few times from running too loose. Like you've experienced, they didn't fit back into the groove on the bar and couldn't be used afterward.

I took a close look at them and could see and feel burrs on the drive links (the part that rides in the groove) on part of the chain. I figure it was the part that was going over the drive sprocket when the chain came off...but who knows.

Anyhow, since they were junk anyway, I went to work on one of them with a Dremel tool using a fine grinding stone. I could feel the troublemakers with my finger and just trimmed away the burr with the tool. Once all the bad links were cleaned up, I put the chain back on the saw and it ran fine. You may want to try this before tossing all those chains.

If you've got physically bent links, then obviously this approach won't work. None of the chains that came off my saw appeared to be bent.
Bob

kevinj · Jun 7, 2006

( I was noticing in the manual that my saw can actually drive a 12", 14" or 16" bar and chain. I bought it with a 14". )

I don't think that it would help much. One other thing; are you running the saw wide open or ar you babying it???? I find that the small saw has to be wound right up to operate properly.

kevinj · Jun 7, 2006

( I was noticing in the manual that my saw can actually drive a 12", 14" or 16" bar and chain. I bought it with a 14". )

I don't think that it would help much. One other thing; are you running the saw wide open or ar you babying it???? I find that the small saw has to be wound right up to operate properly.

Robertsen · Jun 7, 2006

I have owned 4 chain saws. A Husky 372, Stihl 38 Magnum, Stihl 34 Super and a brand new Stihl 230 C-BE. (I would not own any other brands) I've never had a problem with the chains coming off on the larger saws, but when using the new Stihl, if the bar tip gets pinched, there is a tendency for the chain to pull off the bar. It doesn't happen that often and it's an easy fix with the new chain tensioning system. I really like the saw though, especially the easy start feature.

Robertsen · Jun 7, 2006

I have owned 4 chain saws. A Husky 372, Stihl 38 Magnum, Stihl 34 Super and a brand new Stihl 230 C-BE. (I would not own any other brands) I've never had a problem with the chains coming off on the larger saws, but when using the new Stihl, if the bar tip gets pinched, there is a tendency for the chain to pull off the bar. It doesn't happen that often and it's an easy fix with the new chain tensioning system. I really like the saw though, especially the easy start feature.

wushaw · Jun 7, 2006

Ok I did a little checking and your chain drive links are probably .043. There is .050 size available also which would require the bar to be the same.
I run .050 width and full chisel cutters drive links on both my Stihls 025 and MS260.
I have never bent a drive link. I have had the chain pop off on many occasions due to my neglengence with a loose chain and cutting briar in most instances.

Your Pouland probably had .050 drive links.
I know .007 thousands does not sound much in strength but it it just might be the problem.

wushaw · Jun 7, 2006

Ok I did a little checking and your chain drive links are probably .043. There is .050 size available also which would require the bar to be the same.
I run .050 width and full chisel cutters drive links on both my Stihls 025 and MS260.
I have never bent a drive link. I have had the chain pop off on many occasions due to my neglengence with a loose chain and cutting briar in most instances.

Your Pouland probably had .050 drive links.
I know .007 thousands does not sound much in strength but it it just might be the problem.