Chain Saw Question

[proudestmonkey]

Thanks for the suggestion. I have used my tractor to pull out a few larger stumps, which works fine. It isn't practical, though, for me to do that for the buckthorn, for a couple of reasons. First, there's the sheer magnitude of the infestation. When I was out cuttinig the other day, in about an hour, I cut probably 40-60 trees down. That would have taken me a couple of days using a chain to pull them out. Also, the way buckthorn grows can be an issue with using a chain. They often grow in "clumps" meaning there might be 5-8 trees, all growing from the same root system, all of them converging at their base. So, they might each be 2-3" in diameter, but the whole diameter of the clump might be 12"-18", and the root systems are too strong to pull with my SubCUT.

One thing the dealer did mention (if I didnt' already say this) is to use my FEL to bend and break the trunks in one direction, then come through with the chain saw and finish the job. This could prevent some of the twisting and pinching that is causing all the problems I am having. I am also wondering if I add a toothbar to the FEL, could I dig into the roots of these trees where there are maybe 100 1-2" trees for every square 20 feet--there are a few areas that are like that. So, if I remove the few larger trees by hand chain saw, I can leave those to the FEL. I don't plan on puttng the FEL on again until late summer, but I will try that then.

 

[proudestmonkey]

Thanks for the suggestion. I have used my tractor to pull out a few larger stumps, which works fine. It isn't practical, though, for me to do that for the buckthorn, for a couple of reasons. First, there's the sheer magnitude of the infestation. When I was out cuttinig the other day, in about an hour, I cut probably 40-60 trees down. That would have taken me a couple of days using a chain to pull them out. Also, the way buckthorn grows can be an issue with using a chain. They often grow in "clumps" meaning there might be 5-8 trees, all growing from the same root system, all of them converging at their base. So, they might each be 2-3" in diameter, but the whole diameter of the clump might be 12"-18", and the root systems are too strong to pull with my SubCUT.

One thing the dealer did mention (if I didnt' already say this) is to use my FEL to bend and break the trunks in one direction, then come through with the chain saw and finish the job. This could prevent some of the twisting and pinching that is causing all the problems I am having. I am also wondering if I add a toothbar to the FEL, could I dig into the roots of these trees where there are maybe 100 1-2" trees for every square 20 feet--there are a few areas that are like that. So, if I remove the few larger trees by hand chain saw, I can leave those to the FEL. I don't plan on puttng the FEL on again until late summer, but I will try that then.

 

[guyrj33]

I agree with AMR, I've also cut everything with my Stihl 026 and the only time the chain has ever come off is when the chain was way too loose. I have often use the saw to clear small brush. BTW I also have a trimmer with brush and saw blades, I use the chain saw to trim the small stuff it's much faster than the blades on the trimmer.
Something is not right with ProudestMoney's saw.

 

[guyrj33]

I agree with AMR, I've also cut everything with my Stihl 026 and the only time the chain has ever come off is when the chain was way too loose. I have often use the saw to clear small brush. BTW I also have a trimmer with brush and saw blades, I use the chain saw to trim the small stuff it's much faster than the blades on the trimmer.
Something is not right with ProudestMoney's saw.

 

[proudestmonkey]

Kevin, and everyone else, do you think it would help to change the length of the bar and chain? I was noticing in the manual that my saw can actually drive a 12", 14" or 16" bar and chain. I bought it with a 14". I was wondering if, given the small size of the stuff I am cutting, a 12" might reduce the chain travel back and forth inside the bar groove? Thoughts?

 

[proudestmonkey]

Kevin, and everyone else, do you think it would help to change the length of the bar and chain? I was noticing in the manual that my saw can actually drive a 12", 14" or 16" bar and chain. I bought it with a 14". I was wondering if, given the small size of the stuff I am cutting, a 12" might reduce the chain travel back and forth inside the bar groove? Thoughts?

 

[Spiffy]

If it runs good and the bar is straight, I think your dealer is probably right that the saw is OK, but I'm surprised he didn't check the sprocket. If that wore off to the side or somehow wrong, all sorts of funny stuff can happen.

Keeping your cut as close to the saw as possible does make sense; if you can hook them with the log jaws, you might reduce vibration significantly (except limbing out a tangled mess, I always keep cut right to the jaws, though not sure if it is proper technique). I also keep it wide open throttle all the way through the cut. Of course, it also seems that I try to bend smaller stuff, but I'm not really sure; I just go with what feels right at the time and seldom remember the exact technique. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Where, I don't agree with your dealer (remember, I'm just a DIY guy like you though), is in a wider pitch making things worse. No doubt it will be a bit more stress on the cut, but much more latteral strength on the chain. See if he has a loaner 230/250/270 with a .325 X .063 [with a sharp chain and good sprocket]. This would be the shotgun approach (unless he has a model with the quick tension): you'd have standard tensioning, closer links, thicker guides, and more sprocket teeth: the latter two I think would help significantly for your problem. Maybe he can outfit your saw with that size, but I know nothing of the quick adjust saws.

I don't think you'd make things worse going shorter on the bar, but don't think it's the problem either. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Good Luck! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Spiffy]

If it runs good and the bar is straight, I think your dealer is probably right that the saw is OK, but I'm surprised he didn't check the sprocket. If that wore off to the side or somehow wrong, all sorts of funny stuff can happen.

Keeping your cut as close to the saw as possible does make sense; if you can hook them with the log jaws, you might reduce vibration significantly (except limbing out a tangled mess, I always keep cut right to the jaws, though not sure if it is proper technique). I also keep it wide open throttle all the way through the cut. Of course, it also seems that I try to bend smaller stuff, but I'm not really sure; I just go with what feels right at the time and seldom remember the exact technique. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Where, I don't agree with your dealer (remember, I'm just a DIY guy like you though), is in a wider pitch making things worse. No doubt it will be a bit more stress on the cut, but much more latteral strength on the chain. See if he has a loaner 230/250/270 with a .325 X .063 [with a sharp chain and good sprocket]. This would be the shotgun approach (unless he has a model with the quick tension): you'd have standard tensioning, closer links, thicker guides, and more sprocket teeth: the latter two I think would help significantly for your problem. Maybe he can outfit your saw with that size, but I know nothing of the quick adjust saws.

I don't think you'd make things worse going shorter on the bar, but don't think it's the problem either. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Good Luck! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[sparkkky]

With my narrow kerf chain, when the chain comes off its my fault and I have learned to try to keep this from happening.

You guys with larger saws and chains will not have that problem as much!

 

[sparkkky]

With my narrow kerf chain, when the chain comes off its my fault and I have learned to try to keep this from happening.

You guys with larger saws and chains will not have that problem as much!

 

[Richard]

Only related to this topic as it's about chainsaws, but when I buy my gallon jugs of chain oil, I don't remove the paper seal that is under the lid.

I take a screwdriver and poke a hole in it. By doing this, I have a SMALL opening and can control the flow of oil out of the bottle a LOT better without it overfilling my saw and (gasp) get it dirty /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

After all, what good is a chain saw if it's dirty /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously though, if you open your jug and use a funnel/other... you might try this. Works like a charm for me.

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Richard]

Only related to this topic as it's about chainsaws, but when I buy my gallon jugs of chain oil, I don't remove the paper seal that is under the lid.

I take a screwdriver and poke a hole in it. By doing this, I have a SMALL opening and can control the flow of oil out of the bottle a LOT better without it overfilling my saw and (gasp) get it dirty /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

After all, what good is a chain saw if it's dirty /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously though, if you open your jug and use a funnel/other... you might try this. Works like a charm for me.

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Bob_Young]

If you have a Dremel tool, PM, you might be able to salvage a few of those 'bent' chains.

I've had chains pop off of my Dolmar a few times from running too loose. Like you've experienced, they didn't fit back into the groove on the bar and couldn't be used afterward.

I took a close look at them and could see and feel burrs on the drive links (the part that rides in the groove) on part of the chain. I figure it was the part that was going over the drive sprocket when the chain came off...but who knows.

Anyhow, since they were junk anyway, I went to work on one of them with a Dremel tool using a fine grinding stone. I could feel the troublemakers with my finger and just trimmed away the burr with the tool. Once all the bad links were cleaned up, I put the chain back on the saw and it ran fine. You may want to try this before tossing all those chains.

If you've got physically bent links, then obviously this approach won't work. None of the chains that came off my saw appeared to be bent.
Bob

 

[Bob_Young]

If you have a Dremel tool, PM, you might be able to salvage a few of those 'bent' chains.

I've had chains pop off of my Dolmar a few times from running too loose. Like you've experienced, they didn't fit back into the groove on the bar and couldn't be used afterward.

I took a close look at them and could see and feel burrs on the drive links (the part that rides in the groove) on part of the chain. I figure it was the part that was going over the drive sprocket when the chain came off...but who knows.

Anyhow, since they were junk anyway, I went to work on one of them with a Dremel tool using a fine grinding stone. I could feel the troublemakers with my finger and just trimmed away the burr with the tool. Once all the bad links were cleaned up, I put the chain back on the saw and it ran fine. You may want to try this before tossing all those chains.

If you've got physically bent links, then obviously this approach won't work. None of the chains that came off my saw appeared to be bent.
Bob

 

[kevinj]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was noticing in the manual that my saw can actually drive a 12", 14" or 16" bar and chain. I bought it with a 14". )</font>

I don't think that it would help much. One other thing; are you running the saw wide open or ar you babying it???? I find that the small saw has to be wound right up to operate properly.

 

[kevinj]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was noticing in the manual that my saw can actually drive a 12", 14" or 16" bar and chain. I bought it with a 14". )</font>

I don't think that it would help much. One other thing; are you running the saw wide open or ar you babying it???? I find that the small saw has to be wound right up to operate properly.

 

[Robertsen]

I have owned 4 chain saws. A Husky 372, Stihl 38 Magnum, Stihl 34 Super and a brand new Stihl 230 C-BE. (I would not own any other brands) I've never had a problem with the chains coming off on the larger saws, but when using the new Stihl, if the bar tip gets pinched, there is a tendency for the chain to pull off the bar. It doesn't happen that often and it's an easy fix with the new chain tensioning system. I really like the saw though, especially the easy start feature.

 

[Robertsen]

I have owned 4 chain saws. A Husky 372, Stihl 38 Magnum, Stihl 34 Super and a brand new Stihl 230 C-BE. (I would not own any other brands) I've never had a problem with the chains coming off on the larger saws, but when using the new Stihl, if the bar tip gets pinched, there is a tendency for the chain to pull off the bar. It doesn't happen that often and it's an easy fix with the new chain tensioning system. I really like the saw though, especially the easy start feature.

 

[wushaw]

Ok I did a little checking and your chain drive links are probably .043. There is .050 size available also which would require the bar to be the same.
I run .050 width and full chisel cutters drive links on both my Stihls 025 and MS260.
I have never bent a drive link. I have had the chain pop off on many occasions due to my neglengence with a loose chain and cutting briar in most instances.

Your Pouland probably had .050 drive links.
I know .007 thousands does not sound much in strength but it it just might be the problem.

 

[wushaw]

Ok I did a little checking and your chain drive links are probably .043. There is .050 size available also which would require the bar to be the same.
I run .050 width and full chisel cutters drive links on both my Stihls 025 and MS260.
I have never bent a drive link. I have had the chain pop off on many occasions due to my neglengence with a loose chain and cutting briar in most instances.

Your Pouland probably had .050 drive links.
I know .007 thousands does not sound much in strength but it it just might be the problem.