chainsaw chains

   / chainsaw chains #1  

coolhl7

Bronze Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2006
Messages
83
Location
Panhandle Florida
Tractor
MF1540HST
what do most here feel about using a file freehand vs using a filing guide.
 
   / chainsaw chains #2  
I think the concensus is that freehand sharpening is tough for most people. There are also more popular file guides than others with the Husky style that you can find at Lowes, being one of the better guides out there
 
   / chainsaw chains #4  
I have the Pferd filing guide, and like it alot. It cuts down the rakers at the same time that it files the tooth. That normally works out just fine. However, just the other day, my chain was in pretty bad shape from cutting some logs that had been laying in the mud. I filed the chain more than normal, and the rakers got cut down too much. Now that chain is overly aggressive. Next time I have a lot of tooth to remove, I will take the raker file out of the jig.
 
   / chainsaw chains #7  
I always file freehand, and then use a guide for the rakers every third or fourth filing.

I use Oregon chains (72LG) with the line on the back of the tooth that indicates the proper angle to file at. Other than that hold the file at about a 5 degree angle to the bar and turn it after each swipe.

I can file a 20" chain in about five minutes if its not super dull or hasn't hit anything.
 
   / chainsaw chains #8  
Like Rex said. I file freehand and only use a guide every 3rd or 4th time to "true things up".
 
   / chainsaw chains #10  
coolhl7 said:
what do most here feel about using a file freehand vs using a filing guide.

I think it depends on how much you use the saw, and how much you use a saw. The guides will give you a properly tuned chain, but are very time consuming. After a while you know what is right, and get a feel for when the chain isn't cutting right.


I use a chain guide about 2-3 times over the life of a chain to check the set, and use an 8 inch mill ******* flat file on the rakers as it is a lot quicker, especially with safety chains.
(I also buy about 5 chains per year, or about 10 cords/chain)
A pro who is better at filing probably gets more life out of his chains.
 
   / chainsaw chains #11  
I cut a lot of wood, all maple, with a 65cc Husqvuarna w/20" bar. I use a guide on my round file for the teeth and a flat file on the rakers every 3rd sharpening.

I am interesed in learning more about the Pferd guide mentioned.

Does anyone have any experience with the expensive carbide cutting chains?
 
   / chainsaw chains #12  
I use the little Oregon elcheapo file/guide. Works fine, about every 4th filing, I use the depth guide (again elcheapo Oregon) and file the rakers.
 
   / chainsaw chains #13  
Northland said:
I am interesed in learning more about the Pferd guide mentioned.

Here's a link:

Pferd Chainsharp

I like it a lot, but as mentioned earlier, you can overfile the rakers with it, if you aren't careful.
 
   / chainsaw chains #16  
Northland said:
Thanks jeffingsgf - I found this review as well -

PFERD Tool - Chain Sharp** Sharp Force

looks like the same tool - now I have to find one either locally or on the web

Yes, Pferd makes the Husqvarna "Sharp Force". You'll probably find the Husqvarna version more readily available than the Pferd branded one. I got mine from Logosol at a Woodworking Show. Looks like Logosol has come out with something of their own, though. The Pferd isn't on their web site anymore.
 
   / chainsaw chains #17  
I've been using the Granberg 12v bar-mounted grinder for a few years and love it. Instead of buying a 120vAC to 12vDC converter I just keep an old (but good) car battery in my shop to run it. Of course you can hook it to your truck/skidder/tractor battery for field use. This rig save a LOT of carpal tunnel related pain and gives a good accurate grind every time.

You can buy one via Amazon, direct from Granberg or several other sites. I like Baileys for logging supplies - good prices, decent stuff and fast shipping. I buy all my chain from them too. Their $10.95 chain is every bit as good as Husky/Stihl dealers $18 chains.

Check out: Granberg Bar Mounted 12 Volt Grinder from Baileys-online.com

~paul
 
   / chainsaw chains #20  
I also recommend the 12v sharpener. I always take my 4 wheeler out to the trees and branches. I also always tune up the saw before starting any cutting jobs. The sharp saw always relieves me of the danger of getting hurt because my stats tell me that its the dull saw which sets up a problem. In fact, I'll even tune up the saw during the job to keep things moving smoothly. The 12v sharpener is very easy to set up, use and maintain. That means I'm checking bar conditions and chain tension, too. So what if chain life drops. The cost of a leg, head or arm injury is well worth it for me. BTW: Keep up a supply of rotary stones.
 

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