Clunking in front axle?

[skipmarcy]

As mentioned, check the front driveshaft first. Collapse the tube between the front axle and front trans case and see if either coupler on each end has broken or slid down the shaft allowing the driveshaft to flop around in the tube. I've never broken one but it is certainly possible.

I have had to replace the bolts holding the ring gear to the carrier in the front diff once, then a couple years later I had to replace the whole diff assy. - not cheap but made the tractor whole again. I think the diff assy was around $750 +/-. If that's your case, be sure to remove the whole axle housing out and thoroughly clean it out with a solvent of your chosing before putting any new parts inside. Your outdrives will be off the housing anyway to r&r the diff and it's not much more to remove it from the tractor where you can move it around to clean it GOOD. Any metal left in nooks & crannies WILL destroy your efforts eventually.

 

[DirtHauler]

Yep, it's the bearing that supports the end of the wheel shaft. When this failed it allowed the bevel gear to "walk" and grind into the final gear case (see metal grindings 3rd photo). The grindings got into all bearings on that side. This "walking" of the bevel gear was the cause of my "lurching" when in 4WD.
If this is the problem with yours, you'll know which side it is because when you pull the lower drain plugs, the side with the issue will have the metal shavings. In the end after replacing the gear case, bearings and seals I was a little over $1,350 for parts and did the repair my self.

 

[ch1ch2]

All agree, the sooner you fix it, the less damage you will have to fix.

 

[Oldpath05]

How many hours on these tractors and what kind of fluid is being used in the front ends?

 

[patchfarm]

So I finally have a decent morning to take a look at things. I collapsed the tube on the front driveshaft, and have put up a few images on this post of each end. The collars are not broken but they do slide some. Is that normal? Again, this is the first time I am looking at this so I have no point of reference of what is "normal".

 

[RNeumann]

That all looks fine. You are trying to isolate where the noise is coming from and or feel where the clunk is.

Grab that shaft and try to turn the tires- chalk the rear wheels and put tractor in neutral. Hold the shaft lightly and have some helpers spin both front tires. You are just trying to isolate it to one of three places- right side l, left side or drive shaft.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Grab that shaft and try to turn the tires- chalk the rear wheels and put tractor in neutral. Hold the shaft lightly and have some helpers spin both front tires. You are just trying to isolate it to one of three places- right side l, left side or drive shaft.

chalk or chock? Or both?

 

[RNeumann]

chalk or chock? Or both?

For u both

 

[ch1ch2]

For u both

If you put a chalk mark on TOP on the tire then chock it, it will insure that the tire does not move.

 

[patchfarm]

I did as instructed, but perhaps I am missing something. I have it in 2WD, and whether I have diff lock on or off, both the front wheels spin in opposite directions. The wheels can be spun in tandem direction to begin with but then one side locks up, and starts to push backwards. Similarly, the shaft spins initially but then stops spinning after a second or two of pushing on the tires. Forgive my ignorance if I am doing it wrong or missing the obvious. I'm accustomed to wrenching on cars but not our tractor just yet.