Contemplating a box blade

   / Contemplating a box blade #21  
I'd respectfully disagree with that. The back can be handy for pushing dirt back into a swale from a pile you create with the box. I also use the back to move snow so I am working while backing up to take my next pass in a large area like a cul-de-sac.
As others have said, it's limited to loose material because you can bend stuff trying to break ground going backwards, or snagging on something. You definitely CAN push stuff backwards with it, but even though it's the same type of blade you can't do the same types of things with the rear blade going backward as with the front blade going forward.

1. Your tractor is 25 hp. Maximum width of box blade is likely 48". Check your owner's manual to confirm my suggestion. My tractor is 32 hp, and many times, I can only pull 60" when in 4WD.

My personal opinion is that the 48" blade recommendation is more about a tractor being 2wd than it is about a tractor being small. I use a 60" TSC box blade behind a Kubota b6100 which is a 1000lb tractor with all of 14hp. Mine has a loader so probably more like 1400lb. The thing is, it's 4wd AND has a diff lock. Can i work the box blade in 2wd? Not really. Can i work it in 3wd (4wd with diff lock)? Oh yeah, no problem. I can scarify with 5 rippers, pull up huge rocks, fill the 60" box with dirt and pull it, etc.



True utility/capability of a box blade only happens if you can easily adjust the top link on the fly. On a smaller tractor you may be able to reach it from the seat, but it will still be tedious. On a bigger tractor, you'll need a hydraulic top link. If you don't have the ability to easily adjust the top link on the fly, then you have a very limited range of capability. Many people never discover the power of the box blade because of that.
I agree, it makes it much easier. I recently added a powered top link to my little b6100 and one of the things that i find useful about it that i have not seen anyone else mention is when you can change the angle so much, you can leave the rippers at the height where they don't engage when the box is level, but still engage when the box is tilted forward. So you can have rippers alone, front blade doing its normal job when the box is level and the rippers only breaking up high spots, or just rear blade spreading/smoothing. So a power top link also mostly removes the need to get off the tractor and change ripper settings which is even more annoying than a manual top link!

One thing i haven't done yet is if you want to push a pile backwards with it, tilt the box forward a little to lift the rear blade edge. You won't scrape all the way down to the ground, but you also wont snag anything and bend your 3pt stuff, and you'll still move 95% of the material.
 
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   / Contemplating a box blade #22  
I will be getting a land plane or land
grader what ever you what ever you
want to call it. Just drag it behind you
easy to use vs a box blade and you
can get scarifiers if needed I did not
order any of those as I will only be
leveling the driveway so its flat no
ridge needed in the center. With the
box blade you have a big pile of dirt
and I don't want that as no need to
move piles of dirt go on youtube and
watch the videos of both so you get
a better idea of which one will work
the best for your needs. on here this
guy love's his box blade and this guy
love's his land grader/plan both units
are great you just need to know the
units that's best for you so watch the
videos on youtube to help your decision
and if you get a chance try both of them

willy
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #23  
I was going to order some gravel from the local ready mix place for my two driveways until I bought my Box Blade. I put the scarifiers down, dug it up some, leveled the hump in the middle that likes to grow grass, filled in a hole here and there, adjusted the drain a bit without much problem. After a few rains, it looks pretty darn good. Much better than it did before.

It's really handy to have a Box Blade. It's one of the more useful tools you'll have. Plus, it balances your FEL a bit. I can uproot a small tree here and there and put more in my bucket. It's 400lbs worth of ballast, no charge
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #25  
My box blade just sits after purchasing a landplane. Haven't used it in 4 years. Most of my leveling is road maintenance so the landplane is the go to piece of equipment.
Same here
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #26  
I bought a 5' bushhog brand more than 40 years ago for my 8n. I put in driveway (1000') did all the finish grading around my house (probably an acre), built a small pond, using my M4000 with FEL...I don't use it much anymore as I have other options........
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #27  
Many think EA (everything attachments) makes good stuff. I wanted one of theirs, but ended up buying a Woods BSS60 as it was available immediately an hours drive from me. EA had and apparently still has a 3-4 month backlog.

The 60 inch model is just about perfectly even with rear wheel outer edge. At just over 500 pounds it does the job.

I pull it easily with a Kubota B21 (21 hp, claimed).

Only think I don't like is, besides the price of around $1100, is that big beefy top link bracket makes it impossible to "park" the scarifiers "upside down" on the unit to keep them completely out of the picture when dragging, as the "shallowest" setting is not high enough to not dig at all. So I have to store them somewhere, no doubt to get shy next time I want to dance.

Some of the less expensive brands seem a bit flimsy to me, for anything other than loose dirt or gravel and might not like hitting hidden roots, rocks and other buried treasure.
 
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   / Contemplating a box blade #28  
I'm thinking about getting a box blade to level out soil.

Anyone have/used the TSC ones?

Otherwise, what's good?
I have a JD 1025R and I bought a TSC box blade and for what I have needed to do leveling and removing washboard bumps on my 500 ft gravel driveway, it has worked fine. Several hundred dollars cheaper than JD and when I called my JD dealer, I was told it would likely be 3 or 4 months until they would have one in stock. I needed it sooner so I went with the TSC one.
 

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   / Contemplating a box blade #29  
I'm thinking about getting a box blade to level out soil.

Anyone have/used the TSC ones?

Otherwise, what's good?
If leveling out your soil just involves smoothing with out moving, a land plane might be the answer. If you have high spots in one area and low spots in another that requires moving dirt any distance, then the box blade is the better tool.

A hydraulic top link would be a good addition, but there are work arounds. When I leveled my driveway I set the top link to scrape the high spots, fill and drag, then I would lift the box about 3/4s of an inch to empty and spread in the low area. I set a stop so I could lift the box just enough. When it was empty, go back drop the box and do it again. However, the length of your top link is the critical element in successful operation.
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #30  
True that. Before I had my driveway paved I seriously considered adding a hydraulic side link as well so I could tip the box to one side to get the proper grade.
Best investment (Hydraulic mid-link) for any tractor that has three-point hitch. Makes hooking up equipment so easy and box blades become so much more useful. Complete your hitch with “Pats” brand quick hitch. 3 point hitch that can’t be beat. “Pats” quick hitch is the only thing that is tough enough to handle a 8 ft. box blade when pushing backwards.
 

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   / Contemplating a box blade #32  
I bought the 5' TSC box blade for my TC30 (30HP, 4wd) about a year ago, and it's a pretty good match for that tractor. I only have problems in 4wd when going uphill & not remembering to take less of a bite. So far, it's been both a solid implement and a really useful one. I'm just maintaining my own 40 acres, so my review is not based on commercial use. I don't remember it costing $999- more like $700, so maybe if your need isn't urgent, you can wait for a sale. My take on the quality is that TSC's implements are clearly worth the price when they're on sale, but just OK at full price.
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #33  
I will be getting a land plane or land
grader what ever you what ever you
want to call it. Just drag it behind you
easy to use vs a box blade and you
can get scarifiers if needed I did not
order any of those as I will only be
leveling the driveway so its flat no
ridge needed in the center. With the
box blade you have a big pile of dirt
and I don't want that as no need to
move piles of dirt go on youtube and
watch the videos of both so you get
a better idea of which one will work
the best for your needs. on here this
guy love's his box blade and this guy
love's his land grader/plan both units
are great you just need to know the
units that's best for you so watch the
videos on youtube to help your decision
and if you get a chance try both of them

willy
Box blades are cheaper than land planers? Box blades have more options on using.
 

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   / Contemplating a box blade #34  
My roll over box blade( ROBB ) and my land plane grading scraper ( LPGS ) were $2900 and $2200 respectively. My back blade is a MUCH heavier implement and cost $3950. Remember - weight is your friend when dealing with 3-point implements.

Now is the time to purchase a hydraulic top link. If your tractor is set up with rear hydraulic controls. I have a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. It is a REAL game changer when dealing with 3-point land engagement implements.
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #35  
Titan Implement 60” box blade with scarifiers on my 35 hp Kioti. Plus a hydraulic top link which is awesome
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #36  
You may want to check in on a land plane with scarfires you may be more pleased with it it'll do a nicer job on the road
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #37  
Titan Implement 60” box blade with scarifiers on my 35 hp Kioti. Plus a hydraulic top link which is awesome
Good setup!
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #38  
Box blades are cheaper than land planers? Box blades have more options on using.
I have had a 5' King Kutter mounted on my Kubota L2550 for over 25 years. I modified the linkage on the bb to receive a Quick Attach. On the tractor I installed top link and side link hydraulics. I then did landscaping for over 20 years. The hydraulics are worth their weight and effort to install! I can tilt forward and drop one side. Then the scarifier on the low side can grab a rock or stump and rip it out or I can use the scarifier to dig a small trench. Back to level, tilted forward the scarifiers dig down 4-6", then back up, level the box and grade it over. I don't dig going backwards, unless I'm trying to push out a large rock that is loose. I used to have a 7' grader blade for plowing snow. Now I just use the box blade. Having the hydro's allows you to, on the fly, adjust the blade to the terrain, or cut the terrain to where you want it to be. One thing to remember is that the weight of the box blade is great to counter balance the FEL. However, when you put the BB down, you are no longer carrying that weight. In fact, it's as if the rear tires are lifted a bit,(so it seems!) My rear tires have fluid in them, but I still need my 4wd when I have a good load in the blade. Light load, and I can do ok...
Just my thoughts.
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #39  
I'd respectfully disagree with that. The back can be handy for pushing dirt back into a swale from a pile you create with the box. I also use the back to move snow so I am working while backing up to take my next pass in a large area like a cul-de-sac.
The key words you used here are "pushing dirt back into a swale from a pile you create". 'Loosened' material, if you try to push unloosened or heavy material, you will bend or break parts... most implements for a 3ph are made to be dragged or pulled and so are the tractor arms. I've seen a few bent pins, links and pin brackets from regular blades being used to push back heavy wet snow into a bank. Then it's a PITA to unhitch and straighten.
 
   / Contemplating a box blade #40  
Hi Ralph. I have a Kubota BX 25D with a 4’ box blade. I’ve used it to cut in a 750 foot driveway over rocky terrain with major elevation changes. As well as a host of other jobs. I’d suggest you’ll find it to be a most useful tool. It takes a bit of practice to get in sync with its dynamics, but we’ll worth the effort. As for which one, the general technology is very simple so unless you’re looking to earn a living with it, find the most cost effective tool you’re willing to spend money on and get working!
 
 

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