Cracked bell housing in a 2006 110TLB

[jenkinsph]

Couple of observations.. I don't believe that there were extensive numbers of 110's that failed with cracked bell housing's. Certainly not outside of expected "norms" for the industry or the construction marketplace.

In fact, I've never seen any documentation that Deere served notice to either dealer's or owner's that this was a significant issue affecting many units. If the problem were so extensive - JD would not likely have continued production through 2011. And most certainly would have implemented some manner of re-design or retro-fit or recall. Nothing of that sort occurred - to my knowledge - during the 110 production run.

That said, it seems the problem can manifest if the tractor does not receive routine maintainance i.e. checking and tightening loader mast bolts. That's just common sense... (And not something that typically occurs in a rental fleet.)

Personally, I'm gonna keep checking my lug nuts and my grease fittings and my linkages and my replaceable pins and.... You know just what you're supposed to do if you're paying ATTENTION.

AKfish

Just finished going over my 110 last week getting it ready for the spring work. Really wasn't much to tighten up on the tractor, spent some time checking for loose bolts and most everything was in good shape. Changed all the fluids and new filters, hydraulic oil looked real good but changed anyway. No sign of any cracks on the bell housing either. Had to put the belly pan back in place by myself, used a floor jack to raise it up and hold in place for the bolts, that worked out better than I expected.

I did find problems with the canopy roof mountings, I still need to fix this. Had to strap it down so I could continue working, it will have to wait.

 

[DocDryden]

Just finished going over my 110 last week getting it ready for the spring work. Really wasn't much to tighten up on the tractor, spent some time checking for loose bolts and most everything was in good shape. Changed all the fluids and new filters, hydraulic oil looked real good but changed anyway. No sign of any cracks on the bell housing either. Had to put the belly pan back in place by myself, used a floor jack to raise it up and hold in place for the bolts, that worked out better than I expected.

I plan on doing the same as the weather warms up a bit. Bought my 110 two years ago, now I,m at 400 hr. I thought I would do a complete check-up change oil, Fuel filter, change antifreeze, hydraulic oil and check for loose bolt. The belly pan on my 110 has an access panels to get to the filters, my hope is that I wont need to remove the belly pan. I do have one concern, I notice a couple of drops of antifreeze on the floor underneath my 110 back in January when it was below 0, not sure what that's all about.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I've also got to do this for my 110, my machine came from the south so I learned the hard way about not doing the tune up before winter.
Previous owner was running the regular viscosity HY Gard which was like molasses up here in the frigid north. He also added water to the rears which I was unaware of till it was below freezing. Are you guys using torque wrenches for the checks? It looks like it'll be tight to get at the bolts for the loader mast.

Matt

 

[ultrarunner]

I have it on my to do list too...

Last year only put 40 hours on my 110... still want to make sure it is always work ready.

 

[DocDryden]

I've also got to do this for my 110, my machine came from the south so I learned the hard way about not doing the tune up before winter.
Previous owner was running the regular viscosity HY Gard which was like molasses up here in the frigid north. He also added water to the rears which I was unaware of till it was below freezing. Are you guys using torque wrenches for the checks? It looks like it'll be tight to get at the bolts for the loader mast.

Matt

If I knew what the torque was I would try a torque wrench but not knowing I'm just going to tighten the heck out of the bolts.

 

[beenthere]

Maybe would be worth your while to get the service tech manual for the 110 TLB. That document will give the torque requirements, as well as a ton of other info if working on your own machine.

 

[DocDryden]

you're right I need to break down and buy one

 

[Mark Rinaldi]

I have a 2008 110 TLB with 1400 hours. Not a rental unit and owned it from new. Sent to the dealer every fall for maintenance. Bell housing cracked 360 degrees all the way around it and actually split it apart about an inch. JD wants $8500 for a new bell housing (just the part) so I am considering trying to weld it. Seems some people on here have had success. Is there anyone that ran into problems well welding it.

And secondly when I do fix it what bolts am I supposed to be checking to make sure they are tight that may of caused this??

Thanks

Mark

 

[DocDryden]

Here's a link to another post that might help.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/343626-john-deere-110-tlb-loader.html

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I have a 2008 110 TLB with 1400 hours. Not a rental unit and owned it from new. Sent to the dealer every fall for maintenance. Bell housing cracked 360 degrees all the way around it and actually split it apart about an inch. JD wants $8500 for a new bell housing (just the part) so I am considering trying to weld it. Seems some people on here have had success. Is there anyone that ran into problems well welding it.

And secondly when I do fix it what bolts am I supposed to be checking to make sure they are tight that may of caused this??

Thanks

Mark

Welcome to TBN, sorry to hear about your 110. Do you have any pics of the actual bell housing failure? I've heard of this failure on 110 but never actually seen it. As Doc pointed out make sure you torque all 4 mast bolts although I'm not 100% sure the ft/lb mentioned in the link is factory spec as I've not found that data. But the OP in that thread could possibly have the maintenance manual that lists that torque as spec. Best of luck with the repair.

Matt