Creating a Workshop & Home

[EddieWalker]

The geo thermal aproach sounds interesting. Thanks for the link and suggestions. It's an option.

The AC guy called a little bit ago with a quote.

It's a 2 1/2 tonne electric unit by American Standard. ( They have a plant here in Tyler ) 12 SEER with 13 outlets.

Total turn key for system for "ALL" electric heat is $4,095

Total turn key for system with "Heat Pump with heating coils" is $4,450.

Difference in price is $355.

He said most people save an average of $150 a year having the Heat Pump.

What do you think?

Eddie

 

[Tim_in_IA]

I would go with the air source heat pump after ruling out a geothermal heat pump. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I wouldn't even think about the all electric heat option. $355 will be nothing over the years you use the property. And if you sell it should increase the value of the building.

 

[BX23Seattle]

I was quoted almost $20,000 for a ground source geothermal loop last year for my new home, I ended up with a 5 ton 12 seer air source heat pump for much less than 1/2 that price and have been very happy with it. Friend of mine has the a geo system and his utility bills are very very low but it would take quite some time to make up the differance. If money is no object I would go geo otherwise regular heatpump since you have mild winters. Modern heatpump effeciancy has improved substancialy over the years. My backup strip heating never kicked on last winter, I belive it kicks on when the outside temp hits around 29 degree's. the a/c is a bonus as well.

 

[Tdog]

Eddie,

Sounds like you should go with the heat pump. As I said, we are satisfied with what we have now. Air exchange does OK up to a point [well, down to a point] - - below ~~ 35-40 degrees you need some sort of extra heat. Our new units with the resistance strips work OK.

 

[EddieWalker]

I ordered my metal roofing yesterday from Mueller Inc. Ended up with 26.4 squares plus all the trim in ivy green with a 10ft by 10ft tan roll up door for a little over $4K.

It should be delivered in ten days.

This morning I wanted to finish off the upstairs corner over the stairs. This is a scary area for me due to my fear of heights. I tried to climb onto the perlins and get to it that way, but it was too awkward.

If you look in the upper left hand side of the picture, you can see where I need to build up the end wall. If you look down, you can see my problem. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

My solution was to find all the scrap pieces of wood that are 40 inches or longer and lay them down to create a platform. I screwed them down to lock them in place.

It was very solid, and worked out well.

Sometimes it takes me a little while to figure things out.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Now that it's basically framed, here is a picture of what it looks like.

This is the side with the public bathrooms and the cedar posts.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

This side shows the living area and entrance.

After I get the siding on, I'll build the porch.

Eddie

 

[Tim_in_IA]

Eddie that is looking sweet. I really like the way the second story changes the roofline.

As for fear of heights, I have that gift as well. When I was drywalling overhead of our open stairway I built a platform out of scrap osb flooring and 2x4s that I could slide over the opening to put a ladder on.

looking great!

 

[AntrimMan]

Shaping up very nicely there Eddie.
I will watch with great interest when you apply the metal roofing. I have laid a few bundles of roofers over the years but never did any metal and I think it's starting to catch on here in this area. I'm interested about how to walk on it without putting puckers all over the place.
Really shaping up very well. You are one busy man.
Thanks for keeping us posted.
Martin

 

[EddieWalker]

Had a little set back yesterday.

I had orderd my siding to be delivered yesterday morning, and had removed some of the support braces over the last few days. Didn't really think about it, just figured wiht the siding coming, I needed to be ready for it.

Well, around noon yesterday, with my delivery truck on the way, we got us a storm. Weather forcast was 30% chance of rain, which usually means clouds and nothing else. This time it meant extreme gusts up to 50mph!

Delivery truck had to reshedule due to the conditions of my dirt road. Wont be back until Tuesday now.

After it ended, this is what the workshop looked like. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

Without the siding and any sheer strength, I really needed those braces. OOPS

Fortunately I have a little tool for straightening out this sort of thing. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jwnge]

Bummer!! I hope you can get it straightened ok...JohnJ

 

[EddieWalker]

These angle braces will hold it until my siding gets here. Lesson learned.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Eddie, I guess I am asking the obvious but don't the codes require sheathing under the siding down there?

Up here, before the siding goes on, plywood sheets are used to cover the 2x studs. Code here requires they be used only at the corners to keep the structure from "racking" the rest of the structure is coated with sheeting with thin insulating panels, but on many larger/expensive houses plywood is used to cover the entire structure. The plywood has extreme sheer strength and adds a lot of structural strength to the building, especially in heavy wind load areas.

 

[sassafraspete]

Eddie, sometimes when we start thinking ahead....we just ...well, get ahead of ourselves. Hope you get that racked back OK. Use some plywood on those corners.... that will brace it up good. Try bracing from inside, so as not to interfere with the siding. Good luck, and nice project.

sassafraspete

 

[EddieWalker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie, I guess I am asking the obvious but don't the codes require sheathing under the siding down there?

Up here, before the siding goes on, plywood sheets are used to cover the 2x studs. Code here requires they be used only at the corners to keep the structure from "racking" the rest of the structure is coated with sheeting with thin insulating panels, but on many larger/expensive houses plywood is used to cover the entire structure. The plywood has extreme sheer strength and adds a lot of structural strength to the building, especially in heavy wind load areas.

)</font>

Where "Code" exists, you have to do the outside corners. Outside of city limits there is no code or regulations.

I'm going to use James Hardie "hardipanels" for the siding. They are up to code for sheer strength and according to their website and my supplier, don't require an under layment such as OSB or CDX plywood.

Normally I use plywood on the corners and fiberboard as a filler before putting up brick. This is a bit of an experiment for me using this form of siding.

Eddie

 

[DannyD]

why did we know you would use the tractor to "adjust" the ill effects of nature.

Very cool.

You have many great talents.

 

[OkeeDon]

You said you wanted to try some novel construction ideas as part of your park's attractions; maybe you should have left it that way. These guys did...

 

[OkeeDon]

...and these guys became pretty famous...