Decided on BX24 - $? and what should I add?

donn12 · Apr 22, 2008

How much should I pay for the standard model with turf tires?
What items should I consider having the dealer add before I get it (too hard for the average person that can't weld to install later) and what should they cost? I am interested in a tooth bar or thumb and maybe hooks or teeth for the loader.
Thanks for your help in advance!

Tom_H · Apr 22, 2008

Welcome to the board and congratulations on the tractor. I'd recommend reading through both Kubota forums. All of the questions you pose have been discussed in great detail in just the last 3 or so weeks. You'll find answers to each of those questions in the first 10 or so pages of each forum.

The links below may help.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...9282-bx24-need-recommendations-bolt-edge.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/119624-price-check-bx24-2.html#post1380322

Hedgy · Apr 22, 2008

donn12 said:
What items should I consider having the dealer add before I get it (too hard for the average person that can't weld to install later) ... I am interested in a tooth bar or thumb and maybe hooks or teeth for the loader.

Those attachments (tooth bar, thumb and bucket hooks) are probably the most common attachments recommended here by BX owners (along with a skidplate for protection). Of those only the bucket hooks typically require welding, but you can find bolt-on hooks also. Had I been paying more attention I probably would have asked my dealer about welding some hooks.

Tooth bars usually require drilling a pair of holes in the bucket.
Thumbs just bolt on.
The skidplate (from Bro-tek) also just bolts on.

There are a lot of threads here covering those topics as Tom_H mentions, though searching can often give too many results. You can also browse BXtractors.info which will give you links into some of the more definitive TBN threads on those topics.

donn12 · Apr 22, 2008

Thanks for the input. I have read most of the posts here but I still need some info on the add ons.
The brotek thumb - Is it hydraulic and if not how does it work? How much is it?
How about the rippertooth price? I am going to remove about 50 stumps so this and the thumb interest me quite a bit.

Is there anything anyone else can think of that I should have the dealer do before I get it?
Thanks again for the help!

KeithInSpace · Apr 22, 2008

If you contact Richard at Bro-Tek, he'll work with you on a combo package. Highly recommend thumb and ripper, both. Thumb is held by your un-used 3PH upper link (un-used when your backhoe is in use, anyway). It is not hydraulic. It folds flat when not in use and is easy to deploy when you need it, but it is manual and requires you to get out of the seat.

I'd figure you'd be some $500 into a thumb, ripper tooth, and skid-plates if he works with you. All are very highly reocmmended.

There is another thread regarding costs that has gone through recently. They are regional, but at my dealership, a "bald" (no MMM) BX24 is $15,600. That's a pretty decent price. Over $16k is getting a little more expensive, $17k is stratospheric, and anything under $15k is a very good deal.

Your machine should have it, but make sure you get the new seat, battery cover, and braces under the platform. All have been discussed extensively in this forum in the last 6 to 9 months if you do a quick search.

Lots of guys love their toothbars, but I don't have one and get along just fine. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing, but I love being able to back-drag things flat and you can't do that as well with a toothbar installed.

Keep asking questions and we'll keep answering...

Tom_H · Apr 23, 2008

KeithInSpace said:
If you contact Richard at Bro-Tek, he'll work with you on a combo package. Highly recommend thumb and ripper, both. Thumb is held by your un-used 3PH upper link (un-used when your backhoe is in use, anyway). It is not hydraulic. It folds flat when not in use and is easy to deploy when you need it, but it is manual and requires you to get out of the seat.

I'd figure you'd be some $500 into a thumb, ripper tooth, and skid-plates if he works with you. All are very highly reocmmended.

There is another thread regarding costs that has gone through recently. They are regional, but at my dealership, a "bald" (no MMM) BX24 is $15,600. That's a pretty decent price. Over $16k is getting a little more expensive, $17k is stratospheric, and anything under $15k is a very good deal.

Your machine should have it, but make sure you get the new seat, battery cover, and braces under the platform. All have been discussed extensively in this forum in the last 6 to 9 months if you do a quick search.

Lots of guys love their toothbars, but I don't have one and get along just fine. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing, but I love being able to back-drag things flat and you can't do that as well with a toothbar installed.

Keep asking questions and we'll keep answering...

True, Richard is great to work with. He gave me a good combo package; it's on the way right now.

My second link above is to the pricing thread Keith mentioned.

Also make sure your BX24 has the metal fender/floorboard. First BX24s had a plastic one that kept breaking. That was followed by a sturdier plastic one, but the most recent are back to metal, which they should have stayed with all along.

Keith, if you ever get a tooth bar, you'll wonder how you got along without it.

C6rider · Apr 23, 2008

If you have not paid yet get your dealer to throw in loaded tires, weld on bucket hook(s), free first service at your home and maybe a gallon of Super UDT and a quart of oil. You didn't mention where you are but maybe chains for winter?
In any case good luck.

Tom_H · Apr 23, 2008

As far as loaded tires, some people have a reason to need them and others do not. If this tractor is not going to be used in applications which need the extra ballast, and will primarily be used mowing, then you would be better off without having them loaded.

Also, before you get loaded tires, you should read up on the various things used for loading, and the pros and cons of each.

As far as bucket hooks, read through my first link above. If you ever want to add the American Solutions grapple, that will affect the placement of hooks.

As far as Super UDT, that depends on the climate where you live. I live where it never freezes and regular UDT is more appropriate here. Having a gallon on hand and the right oil is excellent advice. Other things you'll need are a grease gun and some tubes of grease, coolant, something capable of inflating tires (you likely won't be able to cruise into the service station-I got a very good elec. air pump from Grainger), yellow fuel cans for diesel fuel (unless you have a big elevated tank and have a few hundred gallons delivered at a time, and a very large funnel (I have a 17" dia. funnel sold by a racing supply retailer).

Having a smooth paved surface makes it possible to put implements on custom built dollies and roll them right into allignment for attachment. Dollies are life savers, cost little, are easy to build, and a huge variety of casters is available online at N. H. Northern Tool and Supply and at Grainger. I keep my implements in a corner of the garage and move the cars out when I need to roll dollies around and change tractor implements. Having a strong beam overhead in the garage and a chain or electric hoist also makes lifting stuff easy. I got one of each for half off @ $40 @ Harbor Freight Tools.

Initially, I had 2 sets of tires, turf and ag, each on their own wheels. I got an inexpensive hydraulic jack and elec. impact wrench and correct socket (again during a 50% off sale from Harbor Freight) and could quick change wheels NASCAR style in a couple of minutes, but I discovered the turf tires got poor traction when plowing and doing hard toothbar loader work, while the ags did well there and did no damage to the lawn, so I now use the ags exclusively. If you live in snow, I agree about chains.

A very inexpensive ($99) attachment that comes in handy in many ways is a carry-all for the 3ph. You can haul all kinds of things around on it. I strap an ATV elec. sprayer to mine. Getting the sprayer without wheels and steel frame more than offset the cost of the carry-all. I put 1" rigid casters on the bottom for easy movement; it slides under the brush hog (on its dolly) for storage and I hoist the rear blade piggyback onto the brush hog with the elec. hoist. The tripple stacking saves space. There are a couple of carry-alls available at Northern, maybe also at TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) as well. The 15 gal. sprayer came from Northern for less than $100, and without a frame, it is easily lifted up into garage trusses for storage.

C6rider, did you get first free service at home? If so, you have one of the most accommodating dealers I've ever heard of. If you got this, I'm impressed.

donn12 · Apr 23, 2008

I am not going to plow with the Bx and it will be on my grass alot so I am leaning towards not having the tires filled. Won't the BH be enough weight in the rear? I am also thinking about two sets of wheels. When you guys refer to Ags do you mean R4s? Ags don't seem to be available for the Bx 24.
I like the Dolley idea - any pictures ?

Hedgy · Apr 23, 2008

To save Tom_H the trouble here's a thread where he posted a lot of dolly pictures.

LBrown59 · Apr 24, 2008

Tom_H said:
1*yellow fuel cans for diesel fuel (unless you have a big elevated tank and have a few hundred gallons delivered at a time,
2*Initially, I had 2 sets of tires, turf and ag, each on their own wheels .but I discovered the turf tires got poor traction when plowing and doing hard toothbar loader work, while the ags did well there and did no damage to the lawn, so I now use the ags exclusively.
3*A very inexpensive ($99) attachment that comes in handy in many ways is a carry-all for the 3ph.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~
1*I used this to fill my BX23 from a yellow 5 gallon can today.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk286/lb59/100_2303.jpg

2*I think the AG tire/damage lawn thing is mostly hype that's blown out of proportion.
3*I built my own version of a 3P carray all out of wood for about 20 or 25 bucks.
I have plans for a bigger better one later.

LBrown59 · Apr 24, 2008

KeithInSpace said:
Lots of guys love their toothbars, but I don't have one and get along just fine. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing, but I love being able to back-drag things flat and you can't do that as well with a toothbar installed.
.

Heres my tooth bar~~~ http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk286/lb59/100_2316.jpg

KeithInSpace · Apr 24, 2008

donn12 said:
I am not going to plow with the Bx and it will be on my grass alot so I am leaning towards not having the tires filled. Won't the BH be enough weight in the rear? I am also thinking about two sets of wheels. When you guys refer to Ags do you mean R4s? Ags don't seem to be available for the Bx 24.

I think there may be something saying you're NOT SUPPOSED to have the rear tires filled if you have a BH, but I could have dreamed that up. To answer your question, the BH is ample weight in the rear to keep the machine from tipping forward no matter what you put in the FEL

When the BH is in use, the concern actually goes the other way...when you really get a good dig going on, you can pivot the FEL (and the front of the tractor) on the BH stabilizers. You only have to lift the front end up a foot and send it crashing to the ground a few times to A) modify your technique or B) grab a scoop of dirt in the FEL before you start digging with the BH. At least that's my experience.

While you don't need the wheels loaded if you have the BH installed, you WILL find yourself doing FEL work without a BH at some point in your tractoring career. When doing pure lawn work, I'll have the box blade (or york rake, or disc harrows when I get them...) mounted instead of the BH. In that case, you need to have some extra weight in the back to safely carry heaping buckets of dirt. Personally, I have cast iron wheel weights and I love them. If I get a flat, I fix the flat and don't have to fart around with whatever goo I have inside the tire. God bless, I haven't had a flat yet, though.

Another thing that loading tires or wheel weights will do is lower your tractor's center of gravity, which is always a good thing. Can't think of a single situation where I wanted my COG higher...

Regarding tires, Ags are not R4s. R4s are something between turfs and Ags. There is a large amount of debate on what tire is best, but suffice it to say that there is no single answer to the question. Agricultural tires, Bar tires, R1 tires, Ags, whatever you want to call them...I am 100% certain they are available on the BX24.

My penny thought is this on tires: If you're not plowing and you're going to be on finished lawn most of the time, strongly consider the turf tire. It gets very good traction and definitely won't tear up your lawn, even if you accidentally spin a wheel or something. Some would say that the R4 is preferable, and it may be. There have been statements about the lack of "corners" on that particular tire DECREASING its traction on slippery surfaces like snow, ice, and wet lawn. They'd do better in raw dirt, I would figure, but like you, I deal more with lawn than dirt. I personally run turf tires and very seldom run out of traction. If there is ever a question in my mind, I throw it into 4WD and do whatever I want, wherever I want. That's what it's for, right?

Tom_H · Apr 24, 2008

donn12 said:
I am not going to plow with the Bx and it will be on my grass alot so I am leaning towards not having the tires filled. Won't the BH be enough weight in the rear? I am also thinking about two sets of wheels. When you guys refer to Ags do you mean R4s? Ags don't seem to be available for the Bx 24.
I like the Dolley idea - any pictures ?

It sounds like turfs may be best for the way you plan to use the tractor. I am willing to sell my turfs to anyone close enough to buy them. Some on east coast have inquired, but shipping that far makes it uneconomical. If you are close to me, get the other set with the tractor and I'll make you a good deal on the turfs.

The backhoe goes on and off easily and not having the weight will be better for your turf while mowing. Also, in tight places where you need to maneuver a lot while mowing, the tractor will be much more maneuverable without the bh on. The backhoe can be excellent ballast for loader work, but realize that if you want to use some other 3ph implement, you can't use the bh as ballast. Some use suitcase weights that can stack in front or rear on special racks: easy on/off when ballast is needed. You can make your own by buying old sets of steel barbell weights at a secondhand shop, flea market, etc. Part of the bar can be cut and welded, weights stacked, and the same locking sleeve used to secure them. I plan to do this with my subsoiler and PHD: weld a bar pointing straight up on the top so that weights can be stacked vertically for ballast and locked with the sleeve. These two implements need the extra weight on top of the implement itself, rather than on the tractor chassis.

offcamber · Apr 24, 2008

donn12 said:
I am not going to plow with the Bx and it will be on my grass alot so I am leaning towards not having the tires filled. Won't the BH be enough weight in the rear? I am also thinking about two sets of wheels. When you guys refer to Ags do you mean R4s? Ags don't seem to be available for the Bx 24.
I like the Dolley idea - any pictures ?

I would get the tires loaded...the machine is light as it is....every bit of weight will help stabalize the machine. Also if you take the BH off you will need less ballast to use the FEL. If your going to do a lot of mowing then get the turf tires.

and as everyone else has said....get the skid plates and the thumb..

Also think about other implements... I just picked up a Landscape rake and box blade and have found them to a great asset. Of course if you don't have a lot of grading to do this may not be money well spent.

Good Luck

Tom_H · Apr 24, 2008

donn12 said:
I like the Dolley idea - any pictures ?

This post has pics of my mmm dolly:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-mmm-3-wheel-dolly-casters-2.html#post1376070

This one has pics of my chipper dolly. Some of my dollies are very simple. Others, like this one, I customize very carefully:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/92701-dolly-3-point-hitch-dr.html

I'll try to get a pic of my rear blade dolly on here; it has a post to support the upper neck of the implement. I am still working on the fine details of my bh dolly; I'm trying to get a lot of details just so on it.

C6rider · Apr 24, 2008

Tom H.
The reason I suggested Super UDT is because that's what my BX came with and I don't want to mix fluids. Without knowing where someone is from it is difficult to recommend specifics. I can tell you that where I am, with R4s, chains were mandatory this year. Ags are not available for the BX24 according to Kubota. Some kind of clearance problem.
Also, if the CFO doesn't object, buy everything that will fit your tractor. You know it will only increase in value.
I'll admit I'm a newbie to tractors but have many decades of experience with other motorized vehicles of many descriptions. I feel the main motto should be the the same as the BSA - Be Prepared.

Tom_H · Apr 24, 2008

Mine came with reg. UDT as it virtually never freezes here. Fortunately, reg. is a good deal cheaper than super. It would be helpful for the O.P. to fill out his profile and let us know where he is located.

Interesting about the tires. I do know I don't hear the ags discussed much. I love the ags I got on the BX2200.

I felt the same way about implements at the beginning also. I wound up with some I don't use or didn't like. I didn't like the blower/bagger and sold it. I don't use the turf tires or the pond/dirt scoop and rarely use the tiller. I kind of wish I had gone a little more slowly in spending the money at the beginning. If I had, I would have had the money for some other things I now think would give me better value: a grapple, a Pengo auger for digging in hardpan, etc. These implements have not increased in value but have been mostly unsellable. I do agree that their retail cost goes up if you wait for them, but I rushed to buy too much too soon.

Did you get that free 50 hr. svc. at home?

Loved scouting as a kid. What a great organization.

RayCo · Apr 24, 2008

I've had my BX24 for about 10 months. I got the pretty standard stuff - welded hooks (dealer), a toothbar, and a Wallenstein thumb. Both have been very handy. The toothbar takes about 3 minutes to put on or take off, and I do so often. There are times that I want to backdrag, and there are times when the teeth help me scoop up felled trees. Also, I have a lot of overgrowth in my woods that I've been cleaning up, and ripping through it with the toothbar on is drastically more effective than the times that I've done it without the bar on.

I'm currently in the market for a box blade and may also wind up with a landscape rake after I discover that the box blade leaves too rough of a surface for grass.

If you plan on parking your BX in the garage, bet a giant flag and attach it to the bottom of your garage door to use as a reminder to put down your ROPS. Otherwise, you'll get your tractor jammed in the door frame three times before you permantly remember.

I also suggest getting one of those acrylic 16 ounce coffee mugs that most companies use as promotional items. They're a perfect fit for the cupholder.

Make sure you also get a couple of diesel fuel containers, unless you're going to go the way I hope to go after seeing Larry Brown's tank.

I also got front license plates for my truck and my wife's car, a Kubota t-shirt for my daughter, (though she won't fit into it for another year or so - Kubota had no onesies), and a pink Kubota hat for my wife. These are important items. I also have two of the BX22 model toys and a Kubota polo shirt. These are also critical items.

Oh, and a drawbar. That's a nice thing to have for toting trailers around the property.