Different Pole Barn system?

Ford850 · Dec 6, 2005

Are the post anchor bolts long? How far below the forms do the sit in the column? I looks like the steel anchor plate sits on the edge of the column, and would crack out easily. Maybe I am looking at it wrong.
I'm also curious how this system compares pricewise to the standard pole and truss designs. Do you know how much more or less this will cost you? Did you use SPF or Yellow Pine for the frames?
Thanks

kwTN · Dec 6, 2005

getting the right parts is easy. once you've decided on your bay width, span, and roof style, Rodger at SocketSystems can develop your component list. I told him I needed the components for 3 gable frames at a 28' span using roof purlins. I received all the socket connectors, bolts, screws and purlin clips needed. they supply generic instructions that are easy enough to follow.

My barn is a bit taller than I had originally envisioned - about 26' from ground to peak. Kind of makes it tough hauling 15' long 2x8's to the top to install the purlins

kwTN · Dec 6, 2005

the base sockets are roughly in the middle of the concrete support - 12" round hole x 3' deep. what is visible on top of the ground is a 6" high 10" square. the bases have 2 j-bolts embedded in the concrete - I think they are around 12" long

I'm using standard pine lumber.
I think price wise it will be about the same as poles and trusses. However, I could pickup all the materials myself - it is a long way out to where I'm building and timing/cost of delivery would be a pain.

RedRocker · Dec 6, 2005

Thanks for the pix and info, I'm planning on doing a building first part of next year. Keep the info coming.

1bush2hog · Dec 9, 2005

Hey Synchro -

I saw the snow load calculations on the website, but I am more interested in wind sheer/load ratings. Have you received any feedback from company yet?

Syncro · Dec 11, 2005

I saw the snow load calculations on the website, but I am more interested in wind sheer/load ratings. Have you received any feedback from company yet? 

Yes I got an email from them directing me to the web site load engineering page, but that was it. I kinda think a local engineer would be needed if wind shear is an issue where you live, as it is in my area.

I don't know yet what I'm gonna do, I may just go steel for the shop. What drew me to this type of structure was it could have a lower profile and still have a 14' high end roll-up door, plus it doesn't look 'commercial' as most steel buildings do. I'm also playing with some house designs, but not seriously persuing anything just yet. It has appeal. so If and when I decide to do a project using the system I'll post it here.

JimMorrissey · Dec 15, 2005

Kw, Nice.....Keep the pics coming. Lookin' forward to following the progress.

mlinnane · Dec 29, 2005

I was interested in this as I wish to build a garage with an apartment above it and this looks like it would do the trick. But I have one dumb question what would be the easiest way to insultate the roof. I have seen section roofing system where you place it on rafters I believe and it has the sheet rock and insultation right in the modular. Then I think you can do a shingle roof to the outside? Does anybody have an idea of what I am talking about? If so do have the web page
Thank you Michelle

QRTRHRS · Dec 29, 2005

( I was interested in this as I wish to build a garage with an apartment above it and this looks like it would do the trick. But I have one dumb question what would be the easiest way to insultate the roof. I have seen section roofing system where you place it on rafters I believe and it has the sheet rock and insultation right in the modular. Then I think you can do a shingle roof to the outside? Does anybody have an idea of what I am talking about? If so do have the web page
Thank you Michelle )Do a search on "structural insulated panels". You will find enough web sites to keep you busy for the rest of the evening and then some.

flusher · Dec 29, 2005

Interesting, but the components seem to be a little pricy.

Also, the "engineering package" that comes with the parts may not be enough to get you a building permit. You may need more engineering calculations for the specific structure you're building. Figure on spending another $500-1000 if your county building department makes you get more engineering.