Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D

   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D #21  
On my TC33D the engine block heater was added by my dealer. I believe there is a freeze plug on the engine block which they removed and then installed the heater. To my knowledge the block heater was not a factory installed option when I purchase my tractor 21 years ago. I would think as long as you purchase the correct diameter any after market or New Holland block heater should fit.
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D #22  
I'd change the block heater cord. Napa has them. Replacing the cord on our 3910 has worked multiple times.
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D #23  
You can also use a volt/ohm meter check
the plug in on the cord to the heater if it
reads a short take the cord off and tie the
wire ends together and check again if shorted
replace the wire

willy
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D
  • Thread Starter
#24  
You can also use a volt/ohm meter check
the plug in on the cord to the heater if it
reads a short take the cord off and tie the
wire ends together and check again if shorted
replace the wire

willy

Am I looking for a short between Hot and ground or hot and neutral? (perhaps that's the same thing, if the neutral is tied to ground?)

Once removed and the wire ends are tied together unless the wire is broken somewhere, wouldn't you expect a short?
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D #25  
Disconnect cord from heater and inspect for water intrusion from leaking heater element. Leave cord unplugged from element and plug cord into your GFCI outlet. If your outlet trips cord is your culprit. Bring to Napa and get a new one, they cost $10-15.00. Use dialectric grease to install new cord. It's not as complicated as it sounds. If GFCI does not trip replace heater and it will come with a new cord.
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D #26  
Am I looking for a short between Hot and ground or hot and neutral? (perhaps that's the same thing, if the neutral is tied to ground?)

Once removed and the wire ends are tied together unless the wire is broken somewhere, wouldn't you expect a short?
Neutral and ground is what your looking for.
If it was a short between hot and any other wire the breaker would trip.
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Neutral and ground is what your looking for.
If it was a short between hot and any other wire the breaker would trip.
Duh... yeah. I guess If I had stopped to think a bit, I would have realized that.
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D #28  
Duh... yeah. I guess If I had stopped to think a bit, I would have realized that.
That's what forms are for. Brain storming and gathering info.
Have you tried to tighten the terminals on the GFCI and all the outlets between it and the block heater?
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D
  • Thread Starter
#29  
That's what forms are for. Brain storming and gathering info.
Have you tried to tighten the terminals on the GFCI and all the outlets between it and the block heater?
I have not tried that, but I have plugged 5 other things into that same outlet, and they operate without any problem. Pretty sure this is a problem with the block heater or its attached cord. Just need to get the time to poke around and see what's up.
 
   / Engine block heater malfunction on TC33D
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Strange results from my testing:

Anytime I plug in the heater, it trips the GFI. I tried plugging in to another GFI circuit, and it does the same thing.

The replacement heater and cord came in today. Hoping it was just the cord, I plugged the new cord into the old heater on the engine. Same results: tripped the GFI.

Just as a test, I plugged the new cord and the new heater (not mounted on the tractor) in to the outlet. The heater operated normally.

These tests indicate a problem with the heater itself. Out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new heater, and compared it to the old. I could not measure any significant difference. It's odd. I expected to be able to see some difference that would cause the GFI to trip. It was a cheap Harbor Freight ohmmeter, so maybe it was not sensitive enough. Or maybe the few volts put out by the ohmmeter are not making it through like the 110VAC would.

So I guess replacing the block heater is in my future. I had hoped not to have to drain the coolant (I have no heated work space for this).
 
 
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