Engine ideas

[gravelymay]

Hi js5020
How is your conversion coming?
I did a little more checking.
The small gear can not be broched after boring out to 1 in.
Not enouth meat left.
But I did what you was talking about cutting the sun gear shaft off about 1.00 before the gear and milled a 1/4 key way up to the gear.
Took out the set screw in the end of the shaft.
Drilled thru the shaft with a 3/8 masionary drill bit.
Also Put a counter bore in the end of the shaft.
That goes in to accept a cap screw head.
That would be used to hold the gear
You can buy a sleeve with 1.00 dia hole and 1/4 key thru it.
Slide the sleeve over the engine shaft and slide the gear into sleeve.
Then thread the cap screw into the crank shalf to hold if all together.
Hope this makes sence?
Thanks Bruce g

 

[js5020]

Hey Bruce,
Well I got busy with some other things and it got cold and stuff, but I was just looking at it the other day and thinking I should get moving. My original intent was to get a 6hp diesel, that had a 3/4 shaft but I didn't think there would still be enough "meat" left, so I came to the same basic conclusion as you did. I have however completely disassembled the machine and repainted the housings, need to get new seals for the axles. Since I have it totally apart I have been thinking about changing gear sets, it has L gearing and I was thinking about going to LI gearing, but the more I think about what I will do with the machine I think I'll just leave the L gearing into it. I have a 12 hp unit with the swiftmatic so it can do the slow speed stuff, this one is basically gonna be a mower so I think L gearing will be best.

Have you put an engine on with this method? If so how is it working out, how thick was the spacer, and does the machine feel unbalanced?

js

 

[gravelymay]

Hi js
No to answer your question.
But you have hit on something.
I got a gear from Applied Industrial Technologies that is bored to 3/4 and still room for a key.
This would work on a 3/4 shaft.
They are also where I got the sleeve.
I am thinking of making a adapter that would fit the old and yet have the ears and counterbore for the Kohler adapter.
This way all the engine bolt patterns would fit.
See the Kohler adapter fits most engines.
Then all we need is a spacer for shaft length.
Thanks Bruce g

 

[gravelymay]

Hi js
Just more thinking.
The gear will bore out to 1.00 as long as I don't put a key in it.
So if I bore out the gear to 1.00 I.d. and slide the 1.00 I.d. sleeve
over a 1.00 Rod and weld the gear to the sleeve together.
Then push the 1.00 rod out.
Then have the gear heat treated.
Then the crank would slide thru the sleeve and the gear.
On the end of the crank use a pilot bushing.
The gear would have to have a counter bore for the pilot bushing at the end.
The 1/4 key way is in the sleeve part
Mabe work ?????
Bruce g

 

[js5020]

Well I'm always kinda skidish about welding things that are heat treated or stuff that needs to run sorta true. Will it work,,, only one way to find out. I have managed to reassemble the old L and get some brandy new red paint on it, but so many other projects need to be done before it so I tinker when I can, but I am now at the point of motive power! Still kicking around the power plant, was even thinking since I have specific tasks for it, electric but I don't know at this point if I can get the run time I would like.

 

[gravelymay]

I think the gear and the sleeve are both solf.
But that is a good point.
If we weld before heat treating may work.
The late model double gears is way to go.
But you have the expence of the double gear from Gravely.
and finding a set of good double gears.
I don't know what kind of metal the sleeve and the gear are made of.
Bruce g

 

[gravelymay]

Hi guys

Just finished putting a GX390 Honda in place of a 12 Hp Kolher.

Very Quit and smoove. The engine has everthing built in .

Hookup bat and go.

If anyone is wants more info .

e-mail Me at gravelymay@bellsouth.net

thanks Bruce

My e-mail has changed to gravelymay@yahoo.com
Thanks Bruce g

 

[gravelymay]

Well I have been off for a while.
I made my first adapter to put a Honda clone on a old Model L Gravely
By using a Kohler adapter and the adapter I made.
Plus use the whole planetary from a newer model including the cross over
and side actuator arms.
In order to slow the tractor down.
Also use the Gravely Double Gear and the Gravely pilot bushing.
Thanks Bruce g

 

[gravelymay]

I am going to try one picture.

 

[gravelymay]

I am going to try two pictures this time.
Bruce g

 

[2manyrocks]

How did you make your adaptor? I have an intermediate geared Gravely that I wish had a Honda engine.

 

[gravelymay]

I turned it out on a lathe.
This set up uses the Double gear like the late models use.
You have to change the whole plantary. out to the newer style.
Including the cross arm
But this gives you back the speed you want.

 

[2manyrocks]

Looks like you started out with a circle of solid steel, turned it on the lathe, and then bored the holes on a drill press?

I met a guy who got some kind of heavy wall aluminum pipe from a lab and then made his adaptor out of it.

 

[gravelymay]

Yes that is right.
Alum is half the weight.
I like to work alum and this adapter can be made from alum.
The steel was about 18 lbs.
Alum maybe 7-8 lbs
But alum is high price.
Thanks Bruce g

 

[gravelymay]

This adapter is used where you use the late model or Kohler gears in the rear to slow the Tractor down to normal speeds .
You Need to use the Kohler 8 Hp adapter also in order to stop the oil from leaking out.
Can use a 13 Hp Honda, Robin, or Diesel, and the clones that have a 1.00 dia crank shaft
Use Gravely Part # 46410 new part # 08564700 Gear $134.05
Gravely Part # 46411 new part # 08564800 pilot bushing $27.05
Gravely gear set ??? E-bay
GR 002 shaft spacer,and GR 019 model L adapter $150.00
this gives a high lite of the cost of the project
NOT FOR THE REG GEAR SET WITH THE SMALL GEAR
Thanks I hope this helps
Bruce g

 

[2manyrocks]

That helps a bunch. When you say this is not for the reg gear set with the small gear...what I have is an L1 which I think is the middle geared unit. So I'm looking at $350 in factory parts plus the adaptor and the engine cost.

 

[gravelymay]

It depends on what you can get the late model gears for?
I got a set off e-bay a while back for about $60.00
You need a 8 Hp kohler adapter about $40.00
The Reason for the 8 hp adapter is close off the oil.
The 10-16 hp adapter fits around the boss on 4 pedestals.
But does not block the oil from the transmission.
The small one set over the boss and seals up .
So the one in the picture won't work
Back to the list
Late Kohler gears $60.00
Kohler adapter $40.00
Gravely d Gear $134.05
Gravely Pilot B $27.05
GR 019, GR 002 $150.00
Total $411.10
Plus Engine and odd & ends
I know this alot money but,
what can you do with it?
One Jug and piston on the old L would run about as much
You put a new engine with new gas tank carb gov starter
One wire to charge and go.
Good for another 20 plus years
13 Hp Honda at Northern tool is $829.
The 13 Hp clone at Harbor freight is $299.00 on sale
The 10 Hp diesel at Up Stream about $699.00
Robin also has one with a 1.00 dia crank that will fit.
Thanks Bruce g

 

[2manyrocks]

Who is UP stream with the 10 diesel? I'm not familiar with them. Is it a china clone?

 

[gravelymay]

Sorry
It is Carroll Stream
10 Hp Diesel Clone $489.00 plus $115.00 Shipping
Carroll Stream Motor Company
Thanks Bruce g

 

[oldmech]

Yes! This engine are chinesse clone of (Yanmar L100A ) They are more two different factories in China. Mines are Dek-Diesel F420. The dealer sold me the first one for 1 in. PTO but with bushing was 25 MM. This engine are good for the price. But metal Alu. and steel are soft medium quality
Some bolts loose in threads. I find a lot of aluminium powder in motor oil change but less now. I adjust regulator. Engine was over speed. Yanmar L100v is a better engine but 2k . I pay last one $480cdn. This engine take 1-1.5 liter hour very powerful. They are not small diesel engine made in America. Good luck! Oldmech